The myth: the procession nobody records on social media
In Mamatoco, the oldest neighborhood of Santa Marta, there is one night a year when time breaks. While the rest of the city prepares for the official Batalla de Flores parade, here, on the dirt streets and wattle-and-daub houses, something that no tourist finds on Google Maps is celebrated: the Burial of the Carnival. There are no giant screens or billboards. Only candles, rum, drums, and a cardboard coffin carrying a doll dressed as a devil. It is a tradition that the locals know by hearsay, but few have seen. And those who have lived it do not film it: they feel it.
The story goes that the Burial was born at the beginning of the 20th century, when the official carnivals of Santa Marta became elite events in the center. The Black, Indigenous, and mestizo people of Mamatoco, marginalized from those festivities, created their own ritual: symbolically burying the joy of the carnival so it could resurrect the following year. But it is not a sad burial. It is a funeral party, where crying is singing and mourning is dancing. In May 2026, the tradition is still alive, although fewer young people know it each year. That is why this article is not a common tourist guide: it is a map to get there before the myth fades away.
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The key character: the 'matarife' who plays the drum and the 'devil' they burn
The Burial of the Carnival would not make sense without its two central figures: the matarife and the devil. The matarife is the main drummer, almost always an older man from the neighborhood who has inherited the craft from his father or grandfather. His name comes from the times when Mamatoco was a town of matarifes (butchers) who slaughtered cattle for the city. Today, the matarife is the one who sets the rhythm of the bullerengue with a drum called "llamador," while carrying a bottle of rum in the other hand. There is no rehearsal: the rhythm comes from the chest.
The devil, on the other hand, is a rag and cardboard doll, dressed in a red mask and papier-mâché horns. The neighbors build it weeks in advance, in secret, at the house of the founder's widow (Doña Eufemia, who died in 2019, but whose family continues the ritual). During the procession, the devil is inside an open coffin, carried by four men who pretend to cry. At the end of the night, they burn it in a bonfire in front of the Mamatoco church. That act is the climax: the devil represents the sins of the carnival, and by burning it, the neighborhood purifies itself for Lent.
Who can be a matarife or diablero?
Any man from the neighborhood can aspire to be a matarife, but the position is earned with years of playing. Young people learn from childhood, watching the old men on the corners. To be a diablero (the one who carries the coffin), you only need strength and resistance to rum. Women do not carry the doll, but they are the ones who sing the funeral verses, known as "décimas," which narrate the year's misfortunes.
The exact location: the alley of the Cruz Verde
The procession starts in the alley of the Cruz Verde, a narrow street connecting Carrera 5 with Calle 12, in the heart of Mamatoco. There, on a corner where there is a wooden cross painted green (hence the name), the neighbors gather from 5 PM on the last Saturday of February. There is no official call: people come because they hear the drum. The alley does not appear in tourist guides, but any mototaxi driver in the neighborhood knows it. If you ask for "the cross where they bury the devil," they will take you without hesitation.
The route is short: about three blocks to the San José de Mamatoco church, on the main square. But the journey is slow because the procession stops at every corner so attendees can drink rum, sing, and dance. There is no fixed schedule: it can last until midnight. The exact burning spot is in front of the church, on a vacant lot that locals call "el solar de los muertos" (the lot of the dead), because they used to bury the neighborhood's deceased there before the municipal cemetery existed.
Why is the Cruz Verde sacred?
According to the elders, the cross marks the spot where a matarife named Anselmo "el Tuerto" was killed in 1932 during a carnival fight. Since then, neighbors place candles and flowers at the cross every year, just before the procession. Whoever does not respect the cross, they say, will have bad luck for the year.
The sound: the bullerengue that plays only that night
The music of the Burial is not the champeta or vallenato that plays at beach parties. It is bullerengue, a rhythm of drums and handclaps that comes from the maroons of the Colombian Caribbean. But not just any bullerengue: the one played in Mamatoco that night is the "bullerengue sentao," a slow and cadenced variant, almost hypnotic, that imitates the step of a funeral procession. The drums are two: the llamador (bass) and the alegre (treble), accompanied by maracas made from totumo gourds.
The lyrics are improvised verses that the singers launch as they walk. An example repeated every year: "Ay, the carnival died / but don't cry, my black one / because next year / it returns with more rum and fire". There are no amplifiers or microphones: the voice imposes itself at full lung. So, if you go, do not bring headphones or expect silence. The bullerengue gets into your bones and does not let go until dawn.
Where to learn the bullerengue of Mamatoco?
There are no schools. The only place to hear it is at the Burial. But if you want to try to learn, look for Don Ramiro "el Pato," a 78-year-old drummer who lives on Calle 11 with Carrera 4. He gives informal lessons on Saturday mornings, in exchange for a beer or a meal. He does not charge, but he demands respect for the rhythm.
The aftermath: the feast at the widow of the founder's house
When the devil has been burned and the ashes are scattered to the wind, the party does not end. Attendees move to the house of the founder's widow, at Calle 10 #3-45, two blocks from the church. There, Doña Eufemia's family prepares a communal feast: rice with coconut, fried fish, patacones, and sancocho de guandú. Everything is served on bijao leaves, and eaten with your hands. There are no utensils or disposable plates: tradition dictates that food is shared from the same clay dish.
The house is a wattle-and-daub construction with a palm roof, dating from 1920. Inside, the walls are covered with photos of past carnivals, from the 1950s to today. Visitors can look at them while eating, but it is not allowed to touch them or take photos without permission. The family says the photos have "the soul of the carnival" and that if they are copied, the tradition weakens.
What exactly is eaten?
The menu has been fixed since Doña Eufemia established it in 1958: rice with coconut (sweetened with panela), fried fish (usually mojarra or sierra), green patacones, and a sancocho de guandú with beef ribs. To drink, they only offer white rum of the Tres Esquinas brand, which neighbors buy at the corner store. There is no beer or soda: rum is part of the ritual, because "it scares away evil spirits," according to the elders.
How to get there and transportation
Mamatoco is 15 minutes by bus from downtown Santa Marta. The most direct route is to take a bus of the "Mamatoco" line on Carrera 1 with Calle 22, in front of the public market. The fare is 2,200 COP (reference prices from May 2026). You can also take a mototaxi from any point downtown for 5,000 COP, but make sure to tell the driver: "Leave me at the Cruz Verde, in Mamatoco." If you come from El Rodadero, the bus will cost you 3,500 COP and drops you at the entrance of the neighborhood, on the Troncal del Caribe.
If you drive, keep in mind that Mamatoco's streets are narrow and unpaved. There is no guarded parking, so it is best to park on the main avenue (Carrera 1) and walk. On the night of the Burial, the neighborhood fills with people, so do not try to take the car into the alley: you will have to back out.
Local tips
- Arrive at 6 PM sharp. The procession starts when the sun sets, and if you arrive late, you will miss the blessing of the cross. Locals are punctual: the drum does not wait.
- Do not bring a professional camera. Neighbors distrust large equipment. If you want to record, use your cell phone, but ask permission before pointing it at someone. A smile and a "may I?" are enough.
- Bring cash. There is no card machine at the rum store or at the widow's house. Prices are popular: a shot of rum costs 2,000 COP, and the feast is free, but a voluntary contribution of 10,000 COP for the family is appreciated.
- Dress in dark colors. Symbolic mourning is part of the ritual. Black or dark blue shirt, drill pants, and closed-toe shoes (the streets have stones and mud). No flip-flops: you will hurt your feet.
- Learn a copla. If you sing during the procession, you will earn the respect of the matarifes. The easiest: "Ay, carnival, carnival / you leave but return / with drum and salt." Repeat it when everyone sings.
- Do not mention the Barranquilla carnival. In Mamatoco, the Burial is their pride. Comparing it to other festivities is considered disrespectful. Here there are no queens or floats: there is drum and rum.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Burial of the Carnival safe for tourists?
Yes, as long as you follow the neighborhood's rules. Mamatoco is a working-class area, but on the night of the Burial, the community looks after visitors. However, do not bring visible jewelry or valuables. The atmosphere is family-friendly, but rum loosens tongues and there may be shoving. Keep your wallet in your front pocket and do not stray from the group.
Can women participate in the procession?
Yes, but with specific roles. Women sing the décimas and hand out the rum, but they do not carry the coffin or play the main drum. However, they can dance in front of the procession, marking the step with hip movements. If you are a woman and want to sing, approach the older ladies who lead the coplas; they will teach you the lyrics.
What happens if it rains on the day of the Burial?
Tradition says that rain is a blessing: "the devil gets washed," the elders say. The procession continues as usual, although the route is shortened. The burning of the devil is done under a zinc roof that neighbors place in front of the church. Bring an umbrella, but do not use a hood: the sound of the drum is heard better without protection.
Are there any restrictions for foreigners?
None. In fact, locals feel proud when a foreigner attends. But do not expect them to explain it to you: the Burial is lived, not told. If you do not understand a copla, ask afterwards, not during the singing. The matarifes value respectful silence while they play.
Can you buy the devil doll after the burning?
No. The devil is completely burned and its ashes are scattered in the lot of the dead. Whoever tries to take a piece, according to belief, will have bad luck. The neighborhood children sometimes pick up pieces of charred cardboard, but the adults take away their "treasure" and burn it again. It is a sacred object, not a souvenir.
Historical or contextual introduction
Mamatoco is a neighborhood that is not only known for its history, but also for the traditions it has managed to preserve over the years. Founded in the 16th century, this place has witnessed the evolution of Santa Marta and has kept alive the customs that define it. The celebration of the burial of the carnivals, which takes place every year, is one of the most significant events that reflects the fusion of Indigenous, African, and Spanish culture.
This event is not simply a parade; it is a ritual where the inhabitants of Mamatoco pay homage to the death of the festivities and celebrate life through dance and music. The mix of drum sounds and the joy of the dancers create a unique atmosphere that attracts both locals and visitors.
The burial of the carnivals symbolizes a cycle of renewal and transformation, aligning with the worldview of the population that sees death as an integral part of life. The night is full of rituals that include the representation of traditional characters and the creation of an environment where sadness and joy coexist.
For those who wish to experience this tradition authentically, it is recommended to arrive early and participate in the activities prior to the parade. Talking with the neighborhood residents and learning about their stories and the meanings behind each dance will enrich the experience. Do not forget to try the typical food offered during these days, such as arequipe and dulce de guayaba, which are part of the region's gastronomic heritage.
What to do
Enjoy the Burial of the Carnivals
Participate in this unique event that marks the closing of the festivities. The streets of Mamatoco fill with music, dances, and a festive atmosphere. Make sure to wear comfortable clothes and be prepared to enjoy the contagious energy of the attendees.
Insider Tip: Arrive early to find a good spot and do not forget to try the local gastronomy offered in the surroundings. The arepas de huevo are a must.
Visit Mamatoco Square
This square is a meeting point for residents and visitors. It is an ideal place to observe the daily life of the inhabitants and enjoy a local coffee.
Insider Tip: Ask the vendors about the stories of the place. Many of them have fascinating tales about traditions and anecdotes that have been passed down from generation to generation.
Explore the neighborhood streets
Walking through the streets of Mamatoco is an experience that allows you to appreciate the colonial architecture and the welcoming atmosphere of the neighborhood. Every corner has its own story to tell.
Insider Tip: Do not miss the mural paying homage to the carnivals, located on one of the main streets. It is perfect for a photo and to understand the cultural significance of the event.
Where to eat or drink
Restaurante La Cueva
This iconic place is famous not only for its delicious food, but also for its history. On its walls, you can see works of art and photos that tell the story of the music and culture of the region. Do not miss its famous sancocho de pescado.
Insider Tip: If you can, visit during the week to avoid the weekend crowds and enjoy a more relaxed atmosphere. Ask for the chef's recommendations, which often include fresh ingredients of the day.
Bar La Cienaga
A perfect place to enjoy a good drink after a day exploring Mamatoco. La Cienaga offers a variety of cocktails and local craft beers. The decoration is a tribute to the coastal culture, which makes it a cozy atmosphere.
Insider Tip: Try the "Mamatoco" cocktail, which mixes tropical flavors with a touch of passion fruit. Also, on Thursdays they usually have live music, so make sure to be there to enjoy the local talent.