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Hidden Terraces: The Secret Life Above the Centro

Mateo Silva
Mateo Silva|Curador Gastronómico & Vida Nocturna
Updated on 29 de September, 2026
Hidden Terraces: The Secret Life Above the Centro

There is a moment, almost always at sunset, when the Centro Histórico of Santa Marta stops being a labyrinth of narrow streets and becomes a map. That happens w

The city that can only be understood from above

There is a moment, almost always at sunset, when the Centro Histórico of Santa Marta stops being a labyrinth of narrow streets and becomes a map. That happens when you go up to a terrace, lean on a railing of rusted iron and look down: the Arab tile roofs settle against each other like dominoes, the dome of the Catedral peeks out between them, and beyond, the bay opens up in a blue that at that hour turns copper-colored. It is the same city you walked all day, but told in another way.

The Centro Histórico of Santa Marta is officially a Tourist, Cultural and Historical District of Colombia, and its old town concentrates the city's colonial heritage. However, most visitors explore it at ground level: they enter the Casa de la Cultura, take a photo at Parque Simón Bolívar, eat at some restaurant on Calle 19 and leave. Few look up. And up there, on those terraces that don't appear on street signs, is the version of the Centro that urban photographers have been searching for for years.

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This guide is for those who want to see Santa Marta from the rooftop. It is not a list of trendy terraces or bars with loud music: it is a tour of real spaces, some in hotels, others in hostels, and others simply the balcony of a heritage building, where access depends as much on your attitude as on your budget. Prices and hours are reference points from September 2026, but it is better to confirm them before going up, because in the Centro things change from one month to the next.

What to do: three terraces, three ways of looking at the city

Not all terraces in the Centro are the same, and that is precisely the charm. There is one that gives you the classic postcard of the bay, another that immerses you in the intimacy of the colonial rooftops and a third that works as a social viewpoint for travelers. The ideal is to do them in that order, starting with the most panoramic and ending with the most relaxed, when night has already fallen.

Hotel Santa Marta (Ribai Hotels)

This is the hotel that many samarios still simply call "el Santa Marta", and its location is its greatest treasure: a few steps from Parque de los Novios and Parque Simón Bolívar, in the very heart of the Centro Histórico. It is a 54-room hotel with a pool, WiFi and restaurant, designed both for business travelers and for those who want to rest without leaving the old town.

Its terrace is not a party place: it is a quiet space, with a pool, where guests go up to read or have a drink while the sun hides behind the neighboring rooftops. From there you can see the movement of Parque de los Novios, that coming and going of people who at six in the afternoon begin to fill the restaurant terraces. If you are not staying there, the most honest thing is to ask at reception whether they allow access to the pool area or the restaurant; in low season they tend to be flexible, in high season not so much. The view toward the bay from this point is partial, interrupted by buildings, but the feeling of being above the bustle of the park is priceless.

La Casa Del Farol Hotel Boutique by Xarm Hotels

If you are looking for the most photogenic terrace in the Centro, this is the candidate. La Casa Del Farol is a 4-star boutique hotel built in 1720, with 12 rooms, a restaurant and a gift shop, located about five minutes on foot from Parque de los Novios, in the district of the Centro Histórico. It is practically around the corner from Parque Simón Bolívar, which makes it a perfect base for exploring on foot.

What makes its terrace special is the scale: being a low heritage building, the view is not that of a skyscraper, but that of someone sitting on the rooftops themselves. You see the tiles up close, the interior courtyards of the neighboring houses, the flowerpots on the balconies, the hanging laundry. It is an intimate, almost voyeuristic perspective of how the people of the Centro live. In the background, between the roofs, the silhouette of the Catedral appears and, if you turn around, the line of the bay. For detailed urban photography —tile textures, whitewashed walls, bougainvillea— this is the best point of the three.

Access is reserved for guests and restaurant customers, so the easiest way is to book a table for lunch or dinner. It is a plan worth it: you eat well and at the same time you keep the view.

La Brisa Loca Hostel

The third viewpoint is the most democratic and the most social. La Brisa Loca is a hostel located about seven minutes on foot from Parque de los Novios, with an indoor pool and a terrace designed for people to meet each other. It is the kind of place where you end up talking with an Australian who has been backpacking for three months and with a couple from Bogotá who came to spend the weekend.

Its terrace does not compete in height with the previous ones, but it does in atmosphere. Here the view matters less than the conversation: the sunset is watched with a cold beer in hand, among hammocks and soft music. It is the ideal spot for digital nomads looking for an alternative space to work during the day and socialize at dusk. Since it is a hostel, access to the terrace is usually open for guests and, in many cases, for visitors who consume at the bar; it is best to ask at reception, especially if there are private events.

What you see from each one: rooftops, domes and the bay

Santa Marta has an advantage that few colonial cities in the Caribbean can boast: the sea is just a few blocks from the center. That means that from any terrace in the Centro Histórico, if you have enough height and the right angle, you can see two things at once: the urban fabric of tiles and courtyards, and the blue line of the bay with the Sierra Nevada as a backdrop on clear days.

From the terraces of Hotel Santa Marta and La Casa Del Farol, what dominates is the fabric of rooftops. The Arab tiles of the Centro Histórico, those terracotta-colored curves that have spent centuries under the Caribbean sun, look different from above: they form patterns, group into blocks, reveal the interior courtyards where mango and lemon plants grow. Between them the dome of the Catedral appears, and if you walk with your gaze toward the north, the bay appears as a silver strip that darkens with the sunset.

The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the highest coastal mountain system in the world, appears on the horizon on clear days. Seeing it from a rooftop in the Centro, with its peaks still green and the city at your feet, is one of those postcards that explain why Santa Marta is different from any other city in the Colombian Caribbean.

A detail that can only be appreciated from above: the number of interior courtyards there are in the Centro. They are spaces that cannot be seen from the street, but that from a terrace are revealed as small private gardens, with clotheslines, plastic chairs and, occasionally, a parrot in a cage. It is the domestic life of the Centro Histórico, the one that doesn't appear in the guides.

Where to eat or drink: the terrace as an excuse

In the Centro Histórico, the terrace is almost never the final destination: it is the setting. The gastronomic offering of the old town is diverse, with traditional Caribbean cuisine, seafood and signature proposals, and the hours extend from lunch to dinner. These are some spots that combine well with the experience of looking at the city from above.

Ikaro Café

This healthy food restaurant in the Centro Histórico is a solid option for lunch before or after going up to a terrace. It has a rating of 4.2 out of 5 on Tripadvisor, with hundreds of reviews, and is ranked among the best restaurants in the city. Its proposal moves away from traditional fried food and bets on bowls, salads and dishes with fresh ingredients, many of them from the Sierra Nevada. It is a good place to recharge energy if you are going to spend the afternoon walking the rooftops.

The seafood cazuela of the Centro

If you want to eat something truly samario, the seafood cazuela is the obligatory dish. It is prepared with shrimp, squid, mussels and fresh fish in a creamy base of coconut milk and criollo sofrito, and is widely available in the restaurants of the Centro Histórico. Many of these places have balconies or second-floor terraces facing the street, so you can eat while watching the coming and going of people. It is a hearty dish: ideal for lunch before a photo session from the heights.

Natural juices and raspados

Not everything has to be a restaurant. Natural juices and raspados of Caribbean fruits —mango, corozo, tamarind, passion fruit— are a common offering in the Centro Histórico and the beach area, and they are the perfect drink to take to a terrace if the place allows it. A corozo raspado at sunset, with the bay in the background, is one of those combinations that don't need a tablecloth.

Callejón del Correo

Although it is not a terrace, Callejón del Correo deserves a mention because it is the corridor that connects much of the gastronomic and cultural life of the Centro. Located on carrera 3, between calles 17 and 15, it owes its name to the Correo Nacional printing press that operated there in 1846, and today it is a free-access passage where restaurants, bars and galleries mix. It is the perfect place to start or end a terrace route: you walk through the alley, choose where to eat and then look for the building with the staircase that takes you up.

How to get there and transportation

The Centro Histórico of Santa Marta is compact and is explored on foot. If you come from El Rodadero or from the beach area, the most practical thing is to take a taxi or a motorcycle to Parque de los Novios or Parque Simón Bolívar, which are the two reference points of the old town. From either of the two, the terraces mentioned are less than ten minutes on foot.

For those arriving from Simón Bolívar airport, the journey to the Centro is short, about twenty to thirty minutes depending on traffic. If you come from Taganga, there are buses and motorcycle taxis that leave you in the center in about fifteen minutes. And if your plan includes an excursion to Tayrona National Natural Park, remember that departures toward Cabo San Juan are made from the Mercado Público or the Muelle de Taganga, so you can combine a morning at the beach with an afternoon of terraces.

Inside the Centro, forget the car. The streets are narrow, many are one-way and parking is scarce and expensive. Walk. It is the only way to discover the buildings with staircases that go up to terraces that are not signposted.

The sensory experience: sounds, smells and light

Going up to a terrace in the Centro Histórico is not just seeing: it is feeling. And each hour of the day has its own soundtrack.

In the morning, the Centro smells of freshly brewed coffee and warm bread. From above you hear the calls of the vendors, the noise of the metal shutters going up, the occasional horn of a taxi. The light is white and harsh, perfect for architectural photography, although the shadows are strong.

At midday, the heat presses and

Mateo Silva

Mateo Silva

Curador Gastronómico & Vida Nocturna

Culinary writer and urban explorer. Specialist in traditional street food, specialty coffee, and independent nightlife scenes.

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What to do