The 1920 house that hides a family photography museum
In the barrio Bolívar of Santa Marta, amidst the noise of mototaxis and the smell of fried fish coming from the market, there is a house with a yellow facade that seems to have fallen asleep in 1920. It has no sign, no opening hours, no tourist entrance. But if you peek through the worn wooden door and see a handwritten sign that says “Visits by appointment – knock hard,” you are in the right place. Inside, a family has preserved over 500 photographic negatives that tell the visual history of barrio Bolívar from its beginnings. This is not an official museum, nor a gallery curated by experts. It is the living memory of a neighborhood few know, kept in cardboard boxes and albums that smell of mothballs.
I got there by chance, following a rumor that a lady named Doña Matilde sold old photos of the neighborhood from her home. What I found was a personal archive documenting the transformation of Bolívar from when it was a fishing slum to becoming the popular neighborhood it is today. The house, built in 1920 by Doña Matilde's grandfather, has been the epicenter of this collection. Each negative is a piece of history: the first corner store, the procession of the Virgen del Carmen in 1953, children playing on the street that is now Carrera 5. This article is a guide so you too can experience that, but with a warning: do not expect a museum with display cases and tour guides. This is more intimate, more real, and more valuable than any official exhibition.
📌 Transparency
This article contains sponsored/affiliate links. We may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
What to do
Identify the facade and how to get there
The house is at Calle 18 with Carrera 4, in the barrio Bolívar, two blocks from the public market. The facade is mustard yellow, with a cement base painted dark green. The main door is solid wood, with two leaves and a rusty bronze knocker. There is no plaque or visible number, but the neighbors know it as “the house of Señora Matilde's photos.” If you walk from the Parque de los Novios, it is about 15 minutes south. By mototaxi, from any point downtown, they will charge you between 3,000 and 5,000 COP. Tell the driver to drop you off at Calle 18 with Carrera 4, in front of the store “Donde Pacho.”
The first thing you notice is the silence. Outside, the barrio Bolívar is a hive of street vendors, loud music, and stray dogs. But as you cross the threshold of the house, the noise fades. The inner courtyard has a stone well and a lemon tree that provides shade. There, at the back, is the living room where Doña Matilde receives visitors. Do not expect a curated exhibition: the photos are in black cardboard albums, in shoeboxes, and some framed on the wall with cheap wooden frames. The collection includes over 500 glass and film negatives, many of which have never been digitized. Doña Matilde, who is 78 years old, knows them all by heart. She can point to a photo from 1945 and say: “That's my dad, standing in front of the first gas station in Bolívar.”
The story of the collection
It all started with Doña Matilde's grandfather, Don Ezequiel, an itinerant photographer who arrived in Santa Marta from Sincelejo in 1918. He bought a bellows camera and began photographing the families of the barrio Bolívar, which at that time was a cluster of wattle and daub houses surrounded by mangroves. Don Ezequiel did not just take studio photos; he went out into the streets and documented daily life: fishermen on the beach, washerwomen at the Manzanares River, patron saint festivals. When he died in 1965, he left over 300 glass negatives. His daughter, Doña Matilde's mother, continued the trade until the 1980s, when digital photography began to replace film. Today, the complete collection has over 500 negatives, some on 8x10 inch glass plates, others on 35mm rolls. The most surprising thing is that many are in excellent condition, thanks to Santa Marta's dry climate and the family storing them in wooden boxes lined with newspaper.
Doña Matilde does not charge admission, but accepts voluntary donations. She says she does it “so that history is not lost.” But the truth is the collection is at risk. There are no funds to digitize the negatives, and the Caribbean humidity is starting to damage some. If you are a documentary photographer or historian, you can offer to help with digitization in exchange for access to the images. Doña Matilde is always open to that, as long as you return a digital copy of each negative you work on.
Key images that tell the neighborhood's evolution
There are three photos you cannot miss. The first is a negative from 1932 showing the corner of Calle 18 with Carrera 4, exactly where the house is today. In that photo, there is no asphalt, just packed earth, and instead of buildings there is a pasture with cows. The second is an image from 1958: the procession of the Virgen del Carmen, with hundreds of people dressed in white walking along Carrera 5, which today is a congested road of motorcycles and buses. The third is a portrait from 1975 of a group of children playing soccer in the street, with the San José church in the background. That church is still standing, but now it is surrounded by spare parts stores and mechanic workshops. The contrast between those photos and the current neighborhood is stark. Where there were once mangroves, there are now brick houses. Where there was silence, there is now noise. But Doña Matilde's family remains, preserving the visual memory of a neighborhood that refuses to disappear.
Where to eat or drink
After the visit, you will get hungry. The barrio Bolívar is not known for its tourist gastronomic offerings, but there are local options worth trying. One block from the house, on Carrera 4 with Calle 17, is “Fritanga de la Tía Lola,” a street stall that sells arepas de huevo, meat empanadas, and patacones with hogao from 4:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Prices are popular: an arepa de huevo costs 3,500 COP, and a portion of patacones with suero costs 5,000 COP. Do not expect a written menu; Tía Lola tells you what she has when you arrive.
If you prefer something more seated, three blocks away is “Restaurante El Sabor de Bolívar,” on Calle 19 with Carrera 3. It is a small place with plastic tables, specializing in coastal food: coconut rice, fried fish, and sancocho de guandú. The dish of the day, usually fried fish with patacones and salad, costs 12,000 COP. They are open Monday to Saturday, from 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. They do not accept credit cards, only cash. For a drink, look for a natural juice cart on the corner of Carrera 5 with Calle 18. Corozo juice, a typical fruit of the region, costs 2,000 COP and is perfect for the heat.
If you want something more touristy, walk 10 minutes north to the Parque de los Novios, where there are restaurants like “La Casa de la Arepa” or “Ouzo,” which are more expensive but have options for foreigners. But my recommendation is to stay in Bolívar and eat like a local. The complete neighborhood experience includes the smell of fried food and the noise of the neighbors.
How to get there and transportation
Getting to barrio Bolívar is easy from any point in Santa Marta. If you are in the historic center, walk south along Carrera 5 to Calle 18. It is about a 20-minute walk, passing the San José church and the public market. If you come from El Rodadero, take a bus on the “Rodadero – Centro” route that drops you off at Carrera 5 with Calle 19. The fare is 2,500 COP. From the airport, a direct taxi to the house costs between 15,000 and 20,000 COP, depending on traffic. There is no TransMilenio station or metro system; public transport consists of buses and mototaxis.
The mototaxi is the fastest option for getting around the neighborhood. From the Parque de los Novios, a mototaxi to the house costs 3,000 COP. Make sure to agree on the price before getting on. The drivers know the area well, but if you say “the house of Señora Matilde's photos,” many will know exactly where to go. If you come by private car, keep in mind that the streets of barrio Bolívar are narrow and often congested, especially during peak hours (7:00–9:00 a.m. and 5:00–7:00 p.m.). It is best to park on Carrera 5, which is wider, and walk the two blocks to the house.
A practical tip: the house is only visited by appointment. Doña Matilde is available Monday to Friday, from 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. There is no landline number, but she posts a sign on the door with a cell phone number that only works in the mornings. If you arrive without an appointment, knock hard and wait. Sometimes, if she is home, she will open the door, but it is not guaranteed. It is best to call the night before or early in the morning. The number changes from time to time because Doña Matilde loses her cell phones, but the neighbors always know the current one. Ask at the store “Donde Pacho” (Calle 18 with Carrera 4) and they will give you the number.
Local tips
- Bring a roll of 35mm film: Doña Matilde has a tradition: if you bring her an unused roll of film (black and white or color), she will give you an old copy from her collection. It is a symbolic exchange, but for her it means analog photography is still alive. You can buy rolls at the store “Foto Estudio Santa Marta” downtown (Calle 14 with Carrera 4), for 15,000 COP each.
- Go with time: The visit can last between 1 and 3 hours, depending on how much you want to talk with Doña Matilde. She is very talkative and will tell you stories about each photo. Do not rush. Bring water, as there are no drinks for sale in the house.
- Do not use flash: The negatives are fragile and direct light damages them. Doña Matilde will ask you to turn off the flash on your camera or phone. If you want to take photos of the images, use natural light or a dim flashlight.
- Learn some basic Spanish: Doña Matilde does not speak English. If you do not know Spanish, bring a friend to translate or use a translator on your phone. She is patient, but communicates best in her native language.
- Respect the space: The house is the home of Doña Matilde and her family. Do not enter private rooms or touch objects without permission. She is generous, but there are limits.
- Bring cash: There is no card machine or ATM nearby. The voluntary donation you give to Doña Matilde must be in cash. She suggests between 10,000 and 20,000 COP, but you decide.
- Visit in May 2026: In this month, Doña Matilde is organizing a temporary exhibition in the house's courtyard with the oldest photos, to commemorate the 106th anniversary of the house's construction. It is a unique opportunity to see the glass negatives in person. Ask her about the exhibition when you call.
Frequently asked questions
Is the house an official museum?
No, it is not a museum registered with the Ministry of Culture nor does it have public funding. It is a private collection that the family has maintained for generations. Doña Matilde calls it “my memory museum,” but there are no display cases or curatorial scripts. The photos are in albums and boxes, and she herself explains each one. It is more authentic than any formal museum, but also more fragile.
Can I buy copies of the photos?
Yes, but with conditions. Doña Matilde sells printed copies on photographic paper of images she considers “less valuable” (generally photos from the 70s and 80s). Each copy costs 5,000 COP. The oldest photos (from 1920 to 1950) are not for sale, because the glass negatives are unique and she fears they will be damaged when making copies. If you want a digital copy, you can negotiate with her by bringing her a roll of 35mm film, as I mentioned in the tips.
Is there any danger in barrio Bolívar?
Barrio Bolívar is a popular sector of Santa Marta, with the same safety issues as any urban area in the city: you need to be aware of pickpockets and avoid walking alone at night. During the day, especially in the morning hours, it is safe. The house is on a quiet street, and the neighbors look after the area. Keep your belongings close, do not display valuables, and use the main routes (Carrera 5 and Calle 18). If you come by mototaxi, ask them to wait while you knock on the door, just in case there is no answer.
Historical or contextual introduction
The house that houses the family photography museum in barrio Bolívar has a rich history dating back to 1920. This area, which has witnessed the growth of Santa Marta, reflects the mix of traditions and modernity that characterizes the city. Originally, barrio Bolívar was a residential area where middle and upper-class families built their homes, and its architecture still preserves the legacy of that era. The cobblestone streets and colorful facades tell stories of past generations, while the daily bustle offers a glimpse into the current life of the samarios.
The yellow house, which stands out amidst the noise of mototaxis and the smell of fried fish from the nearby market, is not only a corner of family history but also a space that invites visitors to understand the evolution of photography in the region. Each exhibited photograph narrates the story of the family and of Santa Marta, uniting the past with the present.
Visiting this museum is not just a visual experience; it is an opportunity to connect with local history. Here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit:
Explore the Public Market
Insider Tip: Before or after the visit, take a stroll through the Public Market of Santa Marta, where you can try local delicacies like fried fish and arepas de huevo. It is an excellent way to feel the essence of everyday samario life.
Visit Plaza de Bolívar
Insider Tip: A few steps from the house, Plaza de Bolívar is the ideal place to rest and watch the world go by. Look for a local coffee shop and enjoy a good tinto while soaking up the culture and atmosphere of the place.