Bavaria at Night: Fried Food, Breeze, and Stars
If you're in Santa Marta and tired of the noise from the clubs in the Historic Center or the inflated drink prices at El Rodadero, there's a plan few tourists know about that locals treasure: heading up to Bavaria as night falls. This neighborhood, perched on the slopes overlooking the bay, isn't a luxury destination or a place for electronic parties. It's a spot to arrive hungry, sit on a corner, order a well-steamed arepa de huevo, and let the sea breeze wash away the day's heat. In May 2026, when the sun hides behind the Sierra Nevada and the city lights begin to twinkle, Bavaria becomes the best budget-friendly and authentic plan you can make. Here's how to experience that night without missing a thing.
Sunset in Bavaria: The Best Free Viewpoint
The entrance to Bavaria isn't accidental. From Avenida del Libertador, just after the Variante bridge, a zigzagging climb begins, gradually opening up the panorama. But if there's one place that defines the experience, it's the terrace of the soccer field. Yes, the neighborhood's dirt field, where kids play until dark. Next to it is a kind of natural balcony, without railings, just the edge of the mountain and the void. There, around 5:30 in the afternoon, the ritual begins.
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You arrive, buy a bag of green mango with salt and lime from doña María on the corner (she's always there with her white cart), and sit on the edge of the wall. From that height, you see the entire bay of Santa Marta: the port, the lights of the Center, the boats that look like toys, and in the distance, the sea turning orange and then purple. There's no sign announcing the viewpoint, no entrance fee, no tourists with selfie sticks. Just the sound of the breeze whistling through the lampposts and stray dogs lying at your feet.
If you go in a group, bring something to sit on, because the stones on the edge are hot until 6 PM. A tip: bring a light jacket or hoodie, because when the sun fully sets, the wind turns cold and damp. It's not uncommon to see couples hugging as they watch the stars appear one by one.
How to Find the Court?
Go up the main street of Bavaria (the one starting at the neighborhood roundabout) until you see a small square with a store called "Mi Bohío". Turn left there and walk two blocks. The court is at the end of an unpaved street, surrounded by colorful houses. If you ask for "la cancha grande", any neighbor will point the way.
Fried Food Route: Two Must-Stop Spots
The night in Bavaria is not understood without fried food. It's not gourmet, it's not Instagrammable; it's street food made with love and grease, which is exactly what you need after the breeze. There are two stalls that are legendary among those of us who live here. They don't compete; they complement each other.
La Esquina del Sabor: The Arepa de Huevo with Suero
It's on the corner of Carrera 5 and Calle 18, right next to a grocery store that closes at 8 PM. The stall is a white tent with a portable grill and a display case where Señora Rosa has the freshly fried arepas de huevo, golden and puffed up. The trick is the suero: it's not cream, it's costeño suero, thick, salty, spread with a wooden spoon. Each arepa costs around $4,000 COP (reference price for May 2026) and comes stuffed with egg, but if you ask for "con todo", they add some shredded meat and a slice of tomato. Hours: Monday to Saturday, from 6 PM until the dough runs out, usually between 9 and 10 PM.
Local tip: ask for the arepa "bien sudada", which is what they call one just taken out of the oil and wrapped in a paper napkin so the steam softens it. Eat it standing up, right on the corner, with the suero dripping down your hand. No table, no utensils, just the experience.
Fritanga Bavaria: The Mote de Queso That Takes the Chill Off
Two blocks from La Esquina del Sabor, on Calle 19, is Fritanga Bavaria. It's a more established place, with a yellow-painted facade and a soda cooler at the entrance. The specialty here is mote de queso: a thick soup of hulled corn with melted costeño cheese, served with a piece of fried yuca and a splash of suero. It's not a light dish; it's a warm hug for the stomach. It costs about $8,000 COP for a large plate, and it comes with a glass of panela lemonade included.
The owner, don Jairo, is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 7 PM to 1 AM. If you arrive early, he might tell you how he started the business 15 years ago, when Bavaria was just wilderness and there were only three houses. Now, the place has four plastic tables and a speaker playing vallenato at medium volume. Don't expect a menu: just mote de queso, and if you ask for something else, he'll offer you a chorizo with arepa.
Atmosphere: The Sound of the Breeze, Laughter, and Street Vendors
What makes Bavaria special at night isn't just the food or the view. It's the atmosphere. While in the Center, music blares from the bars and people walk hurriedly, here the rhythm is different. The sea breeze, rising from the bay, filters through the streets and rustles the mango tree branches. That sound mixes with the laughter of friend groups sitting on the sidewalks drinking beer, the clatter of dominoes on store tables, and the calls of street vendors passing with their carts.
Around 8 PM, informal vendors start appearing: a man with a plastic basket selling cocadas and milk candies, a woman offering pipián empanadas from a clay pot, and a fruit cart that turns on an LED bulb to light up trays of mango, papaya, and patilla (watermelon). Everything is on the fly: if you're hungry, you buy; if not, you keep walking. No pressure, no haggling, just a direct offer.
A curious detail: in Bavaria, the night has its own greeting code. If you cross paths with someone on the street, even if you don't know them, you say "buenas" or "buenas noches". It's a neighborhood courtesy, a way of recognizing each other as neighbors of the same mountain. Tourists who adopt this greeting often receive smiles and, sometimes, even an invitation to sit at a domino table.
The Starry Sky: Why Bavaria Has One of the Best Nighttime Views in Santa Marta
Bavaria sits about 150 meters above sea level, on a slope facing north. This means it has no direct light pollution from the Center's lights, because the bay lies below and the city lights project towards the water, not upwards. Also, being far from the main avenues, the sky looks cleaner. On clear nights, especially between December and March, but also in May if the rainy season gives a break, you can see the Milky Way with the naked eye.
The best spot for stargazing is from the same court terrace, but if you want more privacy, walk about 200 meters up the street that borders the neighborhood, towards the road going up to Minca. There's a stretch with no houses, just vegetation and a lamppost that sometimes doesn't work. If you turn off your cell phone flashlight and wait five minutes for your eyes to adjust, the sky opens up completely. The stars seem so close you could touch them.
A little-known fact: in Bavaria, during new moon nights, it's common to see satellites crossing the sky. They aren't shooting stars; they're points of light moving in a straight line. If you see one, it's not a UFO; it's a Starlink satellite or something similar. But the locals call them "las luces viajeras" (the traveling lights) and make a wish on them, as if they were stars.
Safety Tips: Moving in Groups and Lit Areas
Bavaria is a safe neighborhood, but as in any place in Santa Marta, common sense is necessary. Most streets are paved and have public lighting, but some secondary alleys can be dark after 10 PM. My recommendation: don't venture alone down streets you don't know, especially if there's no neighbor activity. Stick to the court area and the two or three blocks around the fried food stalls, where there are more people and more light.
If you come by car, park on the main street, near the roundabout, where there's a private security guard watching residents' vehicles (you give him a voluntary tip of $2,000 or $3,000 COP). Don't leave valuables visible inside the car. If you come by taxi, ask to be taken to the door of the fried food stall or the court, and arrange pickup with the same driver for the return, because public transportation is scarce at that hour.
A tip few know: bring cash. There are no ATMs in Bavaria, and the fried food stalls often don't accept cards or Nequi. Prices are low, but you need bills of $2,000, $5,000, and $10,000. Coins of $500 and $1,000 are also useful for the cocadas and candies.
What to Do If You Feel Uncomfortable?
If at any point you feel the area is too deserted or that someone is following you, go into the store "Mi Bohío" or any house with an open door. The neighbors are helpful and will assist you in calling a taxi or waiting. It's not common for anything bad to happen, but it's better to be safe.
How to Get There and Transportation
Bavaria doesn't have a TransMilenio station or anything similar. Public transportation is informal but functional. From the Center of Santa Marta, you can take a "busito" or a white van that says "Bavaria" or "Mamatoco" on the windshield. The route leaves from Carrera 1 with Calle 22, near the Public Market. The fare is $2,500 COP per person (May 2026) and the trip takes about 20 minutes, depending on traffic.
If you're coming from El Rodadero, you need to take a bus to the Center and then transfer, or better yet, ask for a direct taxi that will charge you between $15,000 and $20,000 COP. Taxis in Santa Marta don't use meters, so agree on the price before getting in.
By private car, from Avenida del Libertador, take the exit towards Mamatoco and then follow the signs for Bavaria. The climb is steep and has some potholes, but any car can handle it. There's no public parking, just the street.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Bavaria Safe for Foreign Tourists?
Yes, as long as you follow basic recommendations: don't walk alone after 10 PM on dark streets, bring cash, and don't flaunt valuables like expensive cameras or high-end cell phones. The court and fried food stall area is busy and watched over by the neighbors themselves. If you come in a group, you'll have no problem.
Are There Vegetarian Options at the Fried Food Stalls?
At La Esquina del Sabor, the arepa de huevo can be ordered without meat, just with egg and suero. At Fritanga Bavaria, the mote de queso is naturally vegetarian (corn, cheese, yuca), but it's not vegan because it contains dairy. If you're strictly vegan, it's better to bring your own food or eat fruit from the street vendors (mango, patilla, papaya).
What Time Is Best to Arrive to See the Sunset and Then Have Dinner?
Arrive between 5:00 and 5:30 PM to get a good spot on the court terrace. The main sunset is between 5:45 and 6:15 PM. Afterwards, walk down to La Esquina del Sabor (they open at 6 PM) and eat the arepa de huevo. Then, around 7:30 PM, go to Fritanga Bavaria for the mote de queso. This way, you make the most of the sunset light, an early dinner, and the starry sky after 8 PM.
Historical or Contextual Introduction
Fried food in Santa Marta is not only a delight for the palate but also a reflection of the region's rich cultural heritage. This popular dish has evolved over the years, blending indigenous, African, and Spanish flavors. Fried food includes a variety of meats, such as chicharrón, morcilla, and longaniza, accompanied by arepas and fried yuca. Originally, these foods were consumed by the humblest communities, but over time, they have become an essential part of local gastronomy.
Enjoying fried food under the starry sky of Santa Marta offers a unique experience, where the sea breeze and relaxed atmosphere create the perfect setting for an unforgettable night. Locals and tourists alike gather in the squares and streets to share this feast, making fried food not just a meal, but a celebration of community.
For those seeking an authentic experience and wanting to avoid the hustle and bustle of the more touristy areas, fried food in Bavaria becomes the ideal option. The proximity to the sea and the fresh air make every bite even more flavorful. Furthermore, the tradition of enjoying these dishes in the company of friends and family adds a special touch to the night.
What to Do
Fritanga La 30
This is the ideal place to enjoy an authentic samaria fried food experience, where you can find all kinds of fried delights like chicharrón, morcilla, and arepas. Plus, the atmosphere is lively and local, perfect for relaxing after a day at the beach.
Insider Tip: Don't leave without trying the "pico de gallo", a spicy sauce that perfectly complements the flavors of the fried food. If you arrive early, you can enjoy the sea breeze while you eat.
La Puerta
A bar with a relaxed atmosphere and a spectacular view of the bay. Here you can enjoy craft cocktails and a selection of local beers. It's a perfect place to end the night, away from the hustle and bustle of the center.
Insider Tip: Ask about the house drink specials. They often have deals that aren't on the menu. Plus, the live music on weekends is a bonus you won't want to miss.
Parque de los Novios
This park is a popular meeting point for locals and tourists. The nights here are quiet, and you can enjoy an ice cream while watching people pass by. It's an ideal place for a nighttime stroll.
Insider Tip: Bring a blanket and enjoy a nighttime picnic under the stars. Sometimes there are cultural events or live music that make the evening even more special.
Where to Eat or Drink
El Pescador
A classic in the city, known for its fresh fish and seafood. The fried food here is a must, and the relaxed atmosphere allows you to enjoy the sea breeze while savoring the dishes. Insider Tip: Don't leave without trying the shrimp ceviche, which is a local favorite. Go early to avoid long dinner lines.
La Casa de la Fritanga
This place is famous for its variety of fried foods. Here you can find everything from arepas to chicharrones, all served with homemade sauces that give it a special touch. Insider Tip: Order a mixed portion to try a bit of everything, and pair it with a cold beer to make the experience even more authentic.
Bar La Cueva
An iconic bar full of history, where artists and bohemians have gathered for decades. La Cueva offers a unique atmosphere with live music and a good selection of cocktails. Insider Tip: Visit on Thursday nights for jam sessions, where you can see local talent in action and maybe even participate.