The Mystery of the Bonda Petroglyphs: The Stones That Speak on the Outskirts of Santa Marta

Bonda: Where Tayrona Time Remains Alive in the Shadow of the City

On the outskirts of Santa Marta, just 20 minutes from the hustle and bustle of the historic center, there is a place where stones speak. Bonda is not just a dusty corregimiento you reach by bus for three thousand pesos. It is a territory where the Tayrona culture —or rather, their descendants— left their memory carved in rock. While the city grows northwards with buildings and mass tourism, Bonda clings to a past that many ignore: that of the petroglyphs, those stones carved with geometric figures and animals that the Arhuaco and Wiwa people call "the footprints of the ancients."

Here there is no ticket booth or official guide. There is no sign saying "archaeological site." The petroglyphs are scattered among farms, dirt roads, and the bush. Some are in plain sight; others, hidden in the undergrowth, wait for those who know how to read them. If you are one of those who believe archaeology is only found in museums or parks like Ciudad Perdida, get ready: this is something else. This is living archaeology, unfiltered, and at risk of disappearing.

The Story Behind the Stones: Who Carved the Bonda Petroglyphs?

To understand the petroglyphs, you have to understand the Tayrona. Not the Tayrona of postcards, those of the stone terraces in the Sierra Nevada. I mean the people who lived on the foothills of the mountain, in areas like Bonda, long before the Spaniards set foot in the Caribbean. Archaeologists believe these carvings were made between 500 AD and 1500 AD, although today's indigenous people say they are much older. For them, these stones are not "rock art" or "archaeological heritage": they are places of power, territory markers, astronomical calendars, and above all, messages from the ancestors.

The curious thing is that no one knows for sure what all the figures mean. There are spirals, concentric circles, wavy lines, shapes that look like lizards, snakes, and birds. Some stones have small cupules, like bowls carved into the rock, which locals call "pocitos." It is believed they were used for rituals with water or chicha. Others have deep grooves that, seen from above, look like star maps. The mamos (Arhuaco spiritual authorities) interpret some of these designs as representations of the Séwaruk lagoon, the origin of life according to their cosmogony. But don't expect a single explanation: each mamo, each Wiwa elder, has their own reading.

A little-known fact: in Bonda there are at least 15 documented stones with petroglyphs, but locals say there are many more, buried or covered by vegetation. Some are on private property, and the owners don't even know what they have. Others have been destroyed by heavy machinery during house construction. As of July 2026, the state of conservation remains precarious. There are no fences, no surveillance, no official protection plan. It is the indigenous communities and some neighbors who care for these stones as best they can.

What to Do in Bonda: Beyond the Petroglyphs

Going to Bonda just to see the stones and turning back is like going to Santa Marta and not eating ceviche. The corregimiento has its own life, its market, its river, and its people. Here is a complete plan to make the visit worthwhile.

Guided Tour of the Petroglyphs

The ideal is to go with someone who knows the terrain. Ask at the store on the main square or at the Casa de la Cultura de Bonda (if it's open). Sometimes a local schoolteacher or a community guide offers the tour. There is no fixed fee, but it is appreciated to leave a contribution of between $20,000 and $40,000 COP per person. The tour lasts between 1.5 and 3 hours, depending on how many stones you want to see and the condition of the paths (in winter, some trails become impassable).

The most accessible stones are near the Bonda River, about a 15-minute walk from the square. Others, like the famous "Piedra del Mico" (which has carvings that look like monkeys), are further in, on private farms where you need to ask permission. The guide will tell you who to talk to.

Swimming in the Bonda River

After the hike, the Bonda River is a reward. Its waters are cool and clean, although during the rainy season they can run murky. There are several pools where locals swim on weekends. Bring your own hydration and something to eat, as there are no direct sales on the riverbank.

Local Market and Food

The Bonda square has a small but authentic market. Here you can find fruits, vegetables, and, if you're lucky, freshly made corn arepas. For lunch, look for the typical food stalls: chicken sancocho, rice with coconut, fried fish, and patacones. A full meal costs between $12,000 and $18,000 COP. Don't expect a restaurant with tablecloths: they are family kitchens with plastic tables, but the flavor is unforgettable.

Visit to the Bonda Church

The corregimiento's church, dedicated to San Juan Bautista, is simple but has a special charm. In front of it, there is a plaque recalling that Bonda was an important indigenous settlement before the arrival of the Spanish. It's worth stopping for a moment and thinking that the Tayrona once walked this same ground.

Where to Eat and Drink in Bonda

Don't expect a gastronomic offering like that of the Historic Center of Santa Marta. Here you eat in family homes or small eateries. I recommend two specific options:

• Fonda El Sabor de Bonda: On the main street, near the square. They serve breakfast (beef rib broth, scrambled eggs with arepa) and executive lunches. Dishes from $10,000 COP. Open Monday to Saturday, 6:00 am to 3:00 pm.
• Doña Carmen's Stall: On the corner of the square, on weekends. She sells natural juices of corozo, sapote, and loquat. A large glass costs $3,000 COP. It has no name on the facade, but all the ladies in town know her.

For a drink, the most common are sodas and ice-cold beers sold at neighborhood stores. There are no bars as such, so if you want to relax after the tour, buy an Águila or a Costeña and sit in the square to watch life go by.

How to Get to Bonda and Transportation

Getting to Bonda is easy and cheap. From Santa Marta, you have two main options:

By Bus from the Public Market

Go to the Public Market of Santa Marta, specifically to Carrera 11 with Calle 11. There, buses and vans leave for Bonda. The fare is approximately $3,000 COP (reference price as of July 2026). The trip takes between 20 and 30 minutes, depending on traffic. Buses pass every 10-15 minutes during peak hours, but in the afternoon they may take longer. Ask the driver to let you know when you arrive at the Bonda square.

By Motorcycle or Taxi

If you prefer more comfort, a taxi from the center of Santa Marta will charge you between $20,000 and $30,000 COP. You can also take a mototaxi (motorized rickshaw) from the Public Market for about $5,000 COP, but only if you are traveling light. The road is paved to Bonda, although there are potholes in some sections.

By Private Car

From Santa Marta, take the Troncal del Caribe (road towards Riohacha) and turn off at kilometer 5 towards the corregimiento of Bonda. There is basic signage. Once in Bonda, you can park in the main square for free. I recommend taking a car with good ground clearance if you plan to venture onto the dirt roads towards the more remote petroglyphs.

Local Tips for Visiting the Bonda Petroglyphs

These tips will save you headaches and, incidentally, help take care of the site:

• Don't go alone if you don't know the area: The petroglyphs are not signposted. It's easy to get lost or end up on private property without permission. Look for a local guide in the square or contact the indigenous community through the Casa de la Cultura.
• Bring repellent and sunscreen: The sun in Bonda is intense, and mosquitoes can be fierce, especially near the river. There are no pharmacies near the site.
• Wear closed-toe, non-slip shoes: The trails are dirt, with loose stones and, in some sections, mud. Flip-flops are not a good idea.
• Bring water and something to eat: There are no food stalls in the petroglyph area. The hike can take longer than expected if you stop to observe every detail.
• Do not touch or paint the stones: It seems obvious, but new scratches appear every year. The acid from human skin accelerates rock erosion. If you want to take photos, do so without flash to avoid damaging sensitive surfaces.
• Ask before entering private farms: Many stones are on private land. Knocking on the door, greeting, and asking permission is a matter of respect. Generally, people are friendly if they see you with a good attitude.
• Best time to go: December to March and July to August are the driest months. In April, May, October, and November, the paths get heavy and some petroglyphs flood.

The State of Conservation: A Fight Against Oblivion

Let's be clear: the Bonda petroglyphs are in danger. There is no fence to protect them, no guard to watch over them, no plan from the Ministry of Culture or the Colombian Institute of Anthropology and History (ICANH) to guarantee their preservation. The uncontrolled urbanization of Santa Marta has reached the gates of Bonda. Where there was once bush, there are now lots for sale. Where there was a carved stone, there is sometimes rubble.

The Arhuaco and Wiwa indigenous people themselves have reported that some stones have been moved from their original location to "adorn" private house gardens. Others have been damaged by the passage of motorcycles and tractors. In 2024, a community group managed to get the Mayor's Office of Santa Marta to include the petroglyphs in an inventory of cultural heritage, but this has not translated into concrete actions. As of July 2026, the situation remains the same: protection depends on the goodwill of neighbors and the awareness of visitors.

If you want to help, you don't need to be a millionaire. When visiting, hire a local guide. Ask the community if they are collecting funds to fence a stone or to put up signage. Bring a bag and pick up any trash you find on the trail. And if you have social media, share photos of the place tagging the Mayor's Office of Santa Marta and ICANH, demanding protection. Visibility is the first step to prevent this heritage from being lost.

Local Interpretation: What Indigenous People Say About the Engravings

The Arhuaco and Wiwa do not see the petroglyphs as relics of the past. For them, they are living beings that contain energy and knowledge. An Arhuaco mamo once explained that the spirals represent the path of water from the Sierra Nevada to the sea, and that the concentric circles are the eyes of the Earth watching humans. The animal figures, like snakes and lizards, are guardians of the cardinal points.

There is also a recurring story among the elders of Bonda: that the petroglyphs are "maps" indicating where ceremonial objects or even gold are buried. This has attracted looters (guaqueros) who have drilled into some stones looking for treasure. The community asks that this not be done, not only because it is illegal, but because it breaks the spiritual balance of the place.

A curious fact that few tourists know: on one of the stones, near the river, there is a carving that locals call "La Cara del Mamo" (The Mamo's Face). It has the shape of a human face with closed eyes. It is said that if you sit in front of it in silence, you can hear the heartbeat of the earth. Is it true? I don't know, but it's worth a try.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are the Bonda petroglyphs easily accessible for everyone?

It depends. The stones closest to the square are a 15-20 minute walk along flat but uneven terrain. To reach the more distant ones, you have to go up and down hills, and in winter the mud can be a problem. People with reduced mobility might have difficulties. It is recommended to go with a guide and good footwear.

Do you need to pay an entry fee to see the petroglyphs?

There is no official fee or ticket booth. However, most of the petroglyphs are on private or community land. It is customary to give a voluntary contribution to the landowner or local guide, usually between $20,000 and $40,000 COP per person. This helps maintain the trails and compensate the community for access.

Is there any safety risk when visiting Bonda?

Bonda is a quiet corregimiento with a low incidence of crimes against tourists. That said, as in any rural area of Colombia, it is not recommended to walk alone at dusk or to carry valuables in plain sight. The safest thing is to go in a group or with a known local guide. There are no problems with armed groups in the area.

## Tickets, Pricing, and Where to Buy Tickets for the event "The Mystery of the Bonda Petroglyphs" will be available starting November 1st. Prices are as follows: - Adults: $20,000 COP - Children (under 12 years): $10,000 COP - Students with ID: $15,000 COP Tickets can be purchased online at [malokal.com](https://malokal.com/en/colombia/santa-marta/a/the-mystery-of-the-bonda-petroglyphs-the-stones-that-speak-on-the-outskirts-of-santa-marta) or at authorized sales points in Santa Marta. ## Official Schedule and Stage Timetables The event schedule includes: - **Day 1 (November 15)**: Talk on Tayrona culture at 10:00 AM, followed by a guided tour of the petroglyphs at 12:00 PM. - **Day 2 (November 16)**: Rock art workshop at 2:00 PM and musical performance by local groups at 5:00 PM. Check the full schedule at [malokal.com](https://malokal.com/en/colombia/santa-marta/a/the-mystery-of-the-bonda-petroglyphs-the-stones-that-speak-on-the-outskirts-of-santa-marta). ## Getting There and Local Safety Tips To reach the Bonda petroglyphs, you can take a taxi or public transport from downtown Santa Marta. The recommended route is via the road to Bonda. It is advised to travel in groups and avoid carrying valuables. Stay alert to safety instructions from the event organizers and follow their recommendations.