The 'cricket hour': How the people of Santa Marta celebrate 'midnight' on Taganga's beaches with bonfires and drums,

The “cricket hour”: this is how the bohemian night in Taganga is lived

It's 11 PM, and the fishing village, which during the day buzzes with the coming and going of boats heading to Tayrona Park, suddenly falls silent. The natural juice vendors pack up their styrofoam coolers, the dogs lie down on the sand, and all you can hear is the sea crashing against the rocks. And then, someone pulls out a drum. That's how the “cricket hour” begins, that unofficial nightly gathering that locals know well but few tourists stumble upon by chance. If you're in Santa Marta and want to experience something that doesn't appear in backpacker guides, keep reading: I'm going to tell you how to be part of this tradition without putting your foot in it.

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The “cricket hour” isn't an event with a published start time or a fixed spot marked on Google Maps. It's a ritual that depends on the mood of the community and the travelers staying at the hostels in Taganga. But there are patterns that repeat, and if you ask around, you'll find them.

The rocky area beside the trail to Playa Grande

The most common spot for these gatherings is the northern end of Taganga's main beach, right where the rocks that separate the bay from the pedestrian trail heading up to Playa Grande begin. It's an area local fishermen use to store their pangas (wooden boats) overnight. There, among rocks and beached boats, small bonfires and drum circles are set up.

It's important for you to know that in this area there's a sacred site: the indigenous cemetery of the Kogui community, who live in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta but have a presence in Taganga. Locals know exactly where it is, and the gatherings happen at a respectful distance from that place. If you go, don't approach the graves or touch anything; it's a ceremonial space that deserves all the respect.

The circle at the fishermen's pier

When the tide is low and the night is calm, the gathering sometimes moves to the artisanal pier area, where fishermen tie up their boats. It's a more visible spot with fewer rocks, but also more exposed to police asking everyone to clear out if the noise gets too loud. Locals prefer the northern rocks because there are fewer homes nearby.

The viewpoint on the trail to Playa Grande

If the beach is ever closed or there are restrictions (this has happened during high-security seasons or when there are environmental alerts), the alternative is to head up the trail toward Playa Grande and find the first viewpoint, about a 15-minute walk from the village. There, the view of the bay lit by the moon is spectacular, and the space is more open. Just bring a flashlight, because the trail has no lighting.

Updated costs

Here's the truth: the “cricket hour” won't cost you an entrance fee, a cover charge, or a minimum consumption. That's part of its charm. But that doesn't mean it's completely free. These are the reference costs from September 2026 so you can plan without surprises:

• Transportation from Santa Marta to Taganga: The public bus from the Mercado Público in Santa Marta costs around $2,800 COP per trip (reference price from September 2026). The ride takes about 20-25 minutes. A taxi from the Centro Histórico charges between $25,000 and $35,000 COP, depending on the time; after 10 PM, taxis raise their night rate.
• Beer at a local store: An Aguila or Poker beer at Taganga's neighborhood stores (not at the beach bars) costs between $3,500 and $4,500 COP. If you buy at the bars facing the sea, you'll pay between $7,000 and $10,000 COP for the same beer.
• Voluntary contribution for the drummer: When a local pulls out their alegre drum and leads the circle, it's customary for those who join to contribute something voluntary. It's not mandatory, but if you stayed for two hours playing or dancing, the right thing is to leave between $5,000 and $10,000 COP for the musician, or buy them a beer. It's not asked for, but it's appreciated.
• Late-night food: After the circle, many end up at the arepa de huevo carts or the burger stands parked on Taganga's main street. An arepa de huevo with cheese costs about $4,000 COP, and a simple burger, $12,000 COP.

Tip: bring cash. In Taganga, most stores and street stalls don't accept cards, and the nearest ATM is in downtown Santa Marta or in the Gaira neighborhood.

Estimated times

The “cricket hour” has its own clock, which isn't the one on your phone. Here's what you can expect, more or less:

• 10:30 PM – 11:00 PM: The village starts to wind down. Restaurants close, bar musicians pack up their instruments, and silence falls like a blanket over the bay. It's the moment when crickets and frogs are clearly audible. That's where the name comes from.
• 11:00 PM – 11:30 PM: If there's going to be a gathering, someone arrives at the northern rocks with a bag of beers and a drum. At first, it's two or three people. Nobody announces anything; they just sit down and start playing softly.
• 11:30 PM – 1:00 AM: The circle grows. Backpackers from the hostels who heard the drum from their hammocks join in, fishermen who finished checking their nets, and the occasional local who comes down with their guitar. It's the most active point of the night.
• 1:00 AM – 2:00 AM: The intensity drops. Some walk back to the village, others stay talking quietly while watching the sea. There's no official closing time, but most gatherings naturally dissolve before 2 AM, because the fishermen get up early to work.

A little-known fact: Taganga's fishermen call this moment the “cricket hour” because it's the exact instant when the village, which during the day is pure noise from boats, motorcycles, and music from the bars, becomes so quiet that only the insects can be heard. It's a moment they respect, almost like a ritual of transition between the workday and rest. When the drum sounds, it's not to make noise: it's to break that silence in a communal way, as they've done for generations.

Practical tips

If you want to experience the “cricket hour” like a local and not like a tourist who intrudes, take note of these recommendations. They're unwritten rules, but everyone knows them:

1. Ask at your hostel before heading out. The receptionists at Taganga's hostels (like those at La Casa del Faro or Hostal Taganga Bay, among others) know if there's a vibe that night. Ask discreetly: “Do you know if there's a cricket hour tonight?”. If they give you a strange look, there's nothing going on; don't insist.
2. Buy your beers at the village stores, not at the beach bars. Neighborhood stores close between 10 and 11 PM, so go beforehand. Bringing your own cooler or thermal bag is well-regarded; arriving at the circle with a full styrofoam cooler is a sign that you've come to share, not just to consume.
3. No bonfires on the sand. For several years now, there's been an environmental regulation prohibiting bonfires directly on the beach sand. Gatherings happen in the rocky area, where fire doesn't damage the beach ecosystem. If someone tries to light a bonfire on the sand, the locals themselves put it out. Respect that.
4. Don't bring bluetooth speakers. The drum's code is simple: if there's an acoustic instrument playing, a speaker is an insult. The music at the “cricket hour” is what comes from hands and voices, not from a phone. If you want to play something, wait until they finish playing and ask if anyone's okay with it.
5. Learn the difference between “rumba” and “reunión”. In Taganga, a “rumba” is a party with loud music, dancing, and a club atmosphere. A “reunión” is this: people sitting in a circle, chatting, playing instruments at a moderate volume. If you show up looking for a rumba, you'll be bored. If you show up looking for a reunión, you'll stay until the end.
6. Take your trash back with you. There's no collection service on the rocks. Everything you bring (bottles, cans, plastic bags) leaves with you. Locals have a deep relationship with the sea