The 'Ciudadela' That Doesn't Appear in the Guides: A Walk Through El Pando Neighborhood and Its Hidden History

The 'Ciudadela' That Doesn't Appear in the Guides: A Walk Through El Pando Neighborhood and Its Hidden History

Did you know that between the hustle and bustle of the historic center of Santa Marta and the airport, there lies a neighborhood that tells stories of struggle and hope? El Pando, a corner that doesn't appear on postcards, has been shaped by those who arrived in search of a future. Not understanding the history of this place is like reading a book halfway through about today's Santa Marta. This neighborhood, forged in adversity and community solidarity, is a reflection of the pulse of the Samarian periphery in the second half of the 20th century.

Origins

To understand El Pando, you have to go back to the sixties and seventies. Santa Marta, in full disorganized expansion, received a wave of migrants from the interior of Magdalena, Cesar, and La Guajira. Bipartisan violence and the search for work in the port and the banana economy pushed entire families to occupy land on the periphery, where El Pando, Ciudadela, and the surroundings of the Troncal del Caribe now sit.

El Pando began as an informal settlement. The first families erected makeshift shacks of wood, zinc, and plastic, facing a lack of public services and paved roads. Water was sought using carts or community wells, while electricity depended on precariously hung cables. Conditions were difficult; in winter, the streets turned into mud pits and disease was rampant.

However, what makes El Pando unique is the rapid organization of its inhabitants. Community action boards, groups of mothers who were heads of household, and support from parishes were essential in pressuring the State and legalizing the land. This process stretched over decades, until finally, the Mayor's Office officially recognized the neighborhood and public utility companies began to extend their networks.

The Name and the Territory

Have you ever wondered where the name El Pando comes from? There are several stories about its origin. The most common suggests it comes from a pando (or pandó) tree, which was common in the area and used for firewood and construction. Another version mentions a hacienda that belonged to the Pando family. Today, El Pando is bordered to the north by Ciudadela, to the south by the Troncal del Caribe, to the east by the Villa Marbella Urbanization, and to the west by the hills that separate Santa Marta from the Sierra Nevada. Its location is strategic: less than fifteen minutes from the center and ten from the airport, although historically it has been forgotten in terms of public investment.

Timeline or Historical Milestones

1960s: The First Settlements

The first families arrive in what is now El Pando, many fleeing violence. The land, mostly pastures and scrubland, is occupied without planning. This is how the first nucleus of homes forms around what is now the neighborhood's main sports court.

1970s: The Consolidation of the Neighborhood

The settlement grows and densifies. They build the first block and cement houses, many with help from the neighbors themselves. A school opens in a house, and the Community Action Board is formed, which begins to demand public services.

1980s: Partial Legalization

After years of pressure, the Mayor's Office of Santa Marta officially recognizes El Pando. The titling process begins, although many lots remain in dispute. Electrical power formally arrives, and the first streets are paved. The Catholic Church, with the support of committed priests, establishes a chapel that becomes the social heart of the neighborhood.

1990s: The Crisis and the Community Response

The violence of drug trafficking and paramilitarism reaches Santa Marta, affecting El Pando. Clashes between armed groups for control of micro-trafficking are recorded. However, amidst the crisis, social leaders emerge seeking to change the neighborhood's reality through sports, culture, and education.

2000-2015: Urban Transformation

With the construction of the dual carriageway of the Troncal del Caribe, El Pando improves its connectivity. New services arrive, schools and health centers are built. The neighborhood becomes a mandatory route for those traveling between the center and the airport.

2016-2026: Between Resilience and Current Challenges

Recently, El Pando has been in the news for youth violence, like other working-class neighborhoods. But it has also been the scene of outstanding community processes: urban art murals, boxing and soccer schools, and solidarity economy projects. Although it faces challenges, the neighborhood continues to fight for its identity and its future.

Key Figures or Events

The Founders: The Women of El Pando

One of the least recognized but fundamental stories of El Pando is that of the women who led its founding. Single mothers, widows, and displaced women arrived in search of a home. They organized community soup kitchens, cared for the children while the men worked, and were the first to demand the construction of a school. Many of these women still reside in El Pando and are considered matriarchs, although their work often goes unnoticed.

The Father of the Chapel

In the eighties, a priest, whose name resonates in the neighborhood, arrived with the mission of building a parish. Beyond the spiritual, he organized savings cooperatives, managed rural aqueducts, and established a children's dining hall that operated for over ten years. His legacy endures in the Community Action Board, which still operates from the chapel.

The Boxing Youth

In the nineties, a former boxer who grew up in El Pando returned to open a free boxing school. For years, this school helped young people stay off the streets and compete nationally. Although its activity has decreased, several of its former students are now coaches who keep the tradition of boxing alive in the neighborhood.

The Massacre That Wasn't

A little-known episode occurred in the late nineties when paramilitary groups arrived in the neighborhood with a list of alleged guerrilla collaborators. Alerted by a community network, the community hid those named and organized a peaceful protest in the main sports court. The pressure from the neighbors and the intervention of the Ombudsman's Office caused the armed groups to withdraw without carrying out any executions. This event marked a before and after in the neighborhood's consciousness.

Current State

In September 2026, El Pando is a neighborhood of contrasts. It is no longer the informal settlement of yesteryear; it now has paved streets, schools, a health center, and sports courts. Many families have improved their homes, leaving behind the shacks to build block houses. Local commerce is active, with shops, bakeries, hair salons, and mechanical workshops.

However, serious problems persist. Youth violence and micro-trafficking have increased, especially among young people aged 15 to 25. Gangs control some sectors, and social leaders face constant threats. On occasion, the Police have had to carry out special operations to ensure safety.

Despite these challenges, signs of hope emerge. Community processes continue, although with less institutional support. The boxing school has been replaced by soccer academies and urban art workshops. The murals adorning the houses are not just decoration; they are a form of resistance and appropriation of the territory. The young artists of El Pando have gained recognition at art festivals in Bogotá and Medellín, and some have sold their works in international galleries.

El Pando Today: Urban Art, Social Leaders, and Community Projects

If you walk through El Pando today, you'll notice the vibrant color of its murals narrating the history of its community: faces of Afro-Colombian women, jaguars from the Sierra Nevada, and raised hands asking for peace. One of the most emblematic murals, painted in 2023, shows a mother carrying her child with the phrase "El Pando doesn't give up," becoming a symbol of local identity.

Social leaders, mostly women and young people, run community dining halls that operate at night to feed the neighborhood's children. They also organize soccer tournaments in the main sports court, which serves as a space for cultural events and Community Action Board meetings. Despite scarce resources, their dedication is admirable.

One of the most interesting projects is the community garden, located on a plot that used to be a dump. There, a group of neighbors grows tomatoes, onions, and aromatic herbs, which they then sell at affordable prices. The garden not only produces food but is also a meeting space where young people learn about sustainable agriculture.

The Gastronomy of El Pando: Where to Eat Like a Local

Eating in El Pando is an authentic experience. You won't find elegant restaurants, but you will find home-cooked food that tastes like tradition. On the corner of the main sports court, every morning a stall sets up selling huevos pericos with arepa de huevo, a hearty breakfast to start the day with energy.

Lunches are served in "food houses," where families open the doors of their homes. The menus change, but on Fridays they usually offer sancocho de pescado, on Saturdays shredded beef with rice and patacón, and the classic arroz con pollo on Sundays. Prices, as of September 2026, range between 12,000 and 18,000 Colombian pesos. If you want to try it, go early; it sells out fast!

If you prefer something sweet, look for the ladies selling dulce de papaya and cocadas on the corners; they are traditional recipes using ingredients from the Sierra Nevada. There are also natural juice stalls: lulo, corozo, zapote, and níspero, fruits that will surprise you if you come from abroad.

For the evening, street food offers hamburgers, hot dogs, and salchipapas, but if you're looking for authenticity, try the arepas de huevo with suero costeño, a classic of the coast that in El Pando has a special recipe with a touch of achiote.

Tips for a Respectful and Safe Visit

Visiting El Pando is different from touring the historic center or El Rodadero. It is a working-class neighborhood with complex dynamics, so it is essential to go with respect and caution. Here are some practical tips:

• Go during the day and accompanied: It is best to visit El Pando in the morning or at noon, when there is more activity.