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After Closing Time: The Nightlife of Food Vendors at Parque de los Novios

Mateo Silva
Mateo Silva|Curador Gastronómico & Vida Nocturna
Updated on 2 de September, 2026
After Closing Time: The Nightlife of Food Vendors at Parque de los Novios

When night falls and the clock strikes 11, Parque de los Novios transforms. Neon lights flicker, and food carts begin to occupy the corners, marking the start o

Origins

When night falls and the clock strikes 11, Parque de los Novios transforms. Neon lights flicker, and food carts begin to occupy the corners, marking the start of the true nightlife of Santa Marta, far from the formal restaurants that have already satisfied the tourists. This park, in the heart of the Historic Center, a step away from the Catedral Basílica and the boardwalk, has a history that few know.

Before adopting the name Parque de los Novios, this place was a meeting point where high-society couples strolled on the warm Samarian afternoons. Its nickname was forged naturally: so many couples met under its almond trees that the name became part of the soul of the place.

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But the story that really interests us is that of the characters who emerge when the couples say goodbye. The food vendors who have made this park the epicenter of nighttime gastronomy did not arrive by magic. Their presence is the fruit of decades of urban changes, economic crises, and the need to survive during the hours when the city seems to sleep.

The first informal vendors appeared in the late nineties. The migratory wave from the interior of the country and the scarcity of formal employment led many to settle in a city whose engine was in the port and in a tourism still in its infancy. In those days, the park breathed tranquility, with fewer bars and more families, and the first vendors offered coffee and pastries to night owls returning from the nightclubs.

With the tourism boom in the 2000s, Parque de los Novios received a wave of formal restaurants. But instead of displacing the street vendors, this competition strengthened them. The restaurants needed that offering of fast, cheap, and authentic food that only the vendors could provide. Thus was born a curious relationship that endures to this day.

Timeline or historical milestones

1990s: The coffee and pastry pioneers

The history of the vendors at Parque de los Novios begins in 1994, with Doña Carmen Rosa Martínez, who arrived from Ciénaga with her thermos of coffee with cheese and yuca pastries. Her first customers were the police officers who watched over the park, and over time she became the "coffee with cheese lady" for all the locals.

2003-2008: The nighttime gastronomic explosion

The appearance of bars like Porthos Steakhouse & Pub turned the park into a nighttime destination. The first hot dog and hamburger carts, adapted to the coastal palate, began to proliferate. It was during this time that Don José "Pepe" Guerra, a 52-year-old Samarian, set up his iconic cart of huevos pericos with ribs on the corner of Calle 17 with Carrera 3, right in front of Mi Viejo Gastro Bar.

2010-2015: Partial formalization and conflict over public space

The district administration tried to evict the vendors from the park, claiming they obstructed pedestrian passage. The tense negotiations led to the creation of "Los Parranderos del Parque," an association that reached an agreement with the Mayor's Office to operate from 11:00 PM to 4:00 AM, always maintaining cleanliness and using charcoal or electricity instead of gas.

2016-2020: The arrival of food trucks and diversification

The food truck trend arrived in Santa Marta, although not all managed to stay. However, Doña Yolanda Pimienta, with her famous guandú sancocho, won the hearts (and stomachs) of taxi drivers and night workers, securing her place in the park.

2021-2024: The pandemic and reinvention

The arrival of COVID-19 was a hard blow. With the park closed, many vendors had no income. But some adapted, offering improvised deliveries. When it reopened in 2022, the number of vendors was reduced by half, but those who remained were more organized. The Nueva Esperanza Association groups 23 permanent vendors and more than a dozen temporary ones who rotate according to the tourist season.

2025-2026: Rebirth and consolidation as a gastronomic destination

In 2025, Parque de los Novios was included in several international street food guides, attracting a new type of tourist in search of authentic experiences. The vendors, responding to demand, improved their hygiene standards and began offering simple menus in English. Today, in September 2026, this park is considered the best place in Santa Marta to eat after midnight, surpassing even the traditional Playa Blanca.

Key figures or events

Doña Carmen Rosa Martínez: The coffee matriarch

At 74 years old and with more than three decades in the park, Doña Carmen is the oldest vendor. Her cart, painted green, houses a giant thermos of black coffee and a display case with yuca pastries and arepas de huevo. "I have seen three generations of night owls pass by," she says while serving a steaming cup of tinto. At her cart, there are no chairs, but people find their place on the edge of the planter, creating a scene that has become iconic.

Don José "Pepe" Guerra: The king of huevos pericos

Pepe Guerra is a local legend. His cart, built from parts of an old bicycle, has been on the same corner since 2004. His famous dish, huevo perico with ribs, is not found on any formal menu. With his precise technique, he browns the rib with onion and tomato, mixes it with scrambled eggs, and serves it with an arepa. A plate costs 12,000 pesos (approximately 3 dollars), and Pepe usually sells around 80 plates during high season.

Doña Yolanda Pimienta: The early-morning sancocho queen

Yolanda Pimienta, originally from the Pescaíto neighborhood, is known for her guandú sancocho. Prepared over a low flame in a giant pot on a wood-fired stove, her dish is the largest in the park and attracts everyone, from taxi drivers to night owls. "Sancocho cannot be rushed," she says while cooking it with love. Her portion costs 15,000 pesos and is a delicacy for those seeking sustenance before finishing their shift.

The unpaid bill incident

In 2024, a nearby restaurant was the scene of an altercation when a couple refused to pay their bill. Although the incident was isolated, its repercussions led street vendors to create a "code red" system, a signal passed among themselves to alert about problematic customers. Now, the unity among them has strengthened, maintaining safety and harmony in the park.

The secret menu: Dishes only served after midnight

Nighttime gastronomy at Parque de los Novios has its own codes. Without printed menus or digital menus, the offering is passed by word of mouth and adapts to the season, the weather, and the mood of the vendors. However, there are dishes that have become classics and can only be found here after 11:00 PM.

Pepe's huevos pericos with beef ribs

The park's signature dish, with a mix of scrambled eggs and beef ribs, is served with a peeled corn arepa and sometimes with hogao. It is ideal for those seeking a hearty bite to keep the party going.

Yolanda's guandú sancocho with pork

This dish is a hug in soup form, full of flavor and tradition. With ñame, yuca, green plantain, and pork, Yolanda serves it hot and ready to comfort night owls.

The "pica pollo" at the park's corner

A vendor known as "el Paisa" offers crispy fried chicken tossed in garlic sauce. With no official name, locals call it "pica pollo," and it is the perfect accompaniment to share with friends while enjoying a beer.

Doña Carmen's arepas de huevo

Doña Carmen not only sells coffee, but her arepas de huevo, fried and filled with a whole egg, are a must for those seeking a quick bite. She accompanies them with her famous garlic sauce, a true delight!

The "perro caliente samario"

A local variant that surprises tourists with its mix of chopped pineapple, crushed potato chips, and grated cheese. The cart of Don Gabriel Pineda, operating since 2015, is the ideal place to enjoy this delicious combination.

Lisa fish rice

Occasionally, when the day's catch allows, some vendors offer lisa fish rice, a traditional dish of the region that has become scarce in restaurants. This river fish is cooked with coconut and spices, and its availability is a surprise that connoisseurs eagerly await.

The logistics of the night

How the vendors organize themselves

The Nueva Esperanza Association of Parque de los Novios has clear rules: each vendor has an assigned space, for which they pay a monthly fee of 20,000 pesos to cover cleaning and nighttime security. Stalls are assigned by seniority, granting the most veteran vendors the best corners.

The relationship with restaurants is complex but functional. Some, like Mi Viejo Gastro Bar, have reached informal agreements with the vendors: they allow them to use their water in exchange for not selling beer. Others, like Porthos Steakhouse & Pub, maintain a cordial competition, contributing to the vibrant atmosphere of the park.

Prices and currency

Street food at Parque de los Novios is notably cheaper than at formal restaurants, with dishes ranging between 10,000 and 18,000 pesos (approximately 2.50 to 4.50 dollars). Sides are usually included, and although most accept cash, some are already using QR codes for digital payments. Carrying cash in small denominations is recommended to facilitate change.

Operating hours

The a

Mateo Silva

Mateo Silva

Curador Gastronómico & Vida Nocturna

Culinary writer and urban explorer. Specialist in traditional street food, specialty coffee, and independent nightlife scenes.

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