Manrique: the field where the súper combo was born

Introduction: the dust that changed everything

If you walk through the upper part of Manrique, among the hills that rise towards the east of Medellín, there is a place that does not appear in tourist guides or official maps. It is a dirt field, surrounded by exposed brick houses and stairs that go up and down like veins on the hillside. It is called La Toma, and although today many know it for micro-soccer tournaments or weekend games, few know that there, in that rectangle of dust and stones, one of Colombia's largest soccer fan groups was born: Los Del Sur.

It was the 1970s. Medellín was a city growing by leaps and bounds, with working-class neighborhoods forming on the slopes. Manrique, comuna 3, was already a hive of hardworking people, with mechanic workshops, corner stores, and kids kicking a rag ball on any hill. But organized soccer, the real deal, the games played on Sundays at the Atanasio Girardot stadium, was something else. The passion for Deportivo Independiente Medellín, the DIM, was felt on every corner, but there was no organized group to take that passion to the stadium with flags, chants, and a single roar.

It was at La Toma where a handful of young men, many of them neighbors from 104th Street, decided it was time to do something different. They didn't know they were creating a movement that would mark the history of Colombian soccer. They just wanted to cheer for their team.

La Toma: much more than a field

To understand how Los Del Sur was born, you first have to understand what La Toma was in the 70s. It wasn't a stadium, or even a well-marked field. It was an empty lot in the upper part of Manrique, in the La Cruz sector, where the neighborhood kids would gather to play impromptu games. The ground was sloped, full of stones, and when it rained it turned into a mud pit. But it had something no other place offered: it was the natural meeting point for the neighborhood's youth.

At that time, Manrique was a neighborhood in full swing. The streets were full of mechanic workshops, carpentry shops, and small factories. People lived by hustling, by hard work. And soccer was the only entertainment that didn't cost money. The games at La Toma were played with improvised teams: the La Cruz sector against La Salle, the Manrique Central neighborhood against El Pomar. There was no referee, no clear rules, but there was passion.

It was during one of those games, a sunny Sunday in 1976, that a group of friends decided it was time to take that passion to the stadium. According to the neighborhood's oral history, that day, after a tough game, someone shouted: "Let's all go to the Atanasio!" And just like that, about 30 kids went down the hill, caught the Manrique-Centro bus, and arrived at the stadium with a flag made from an old sheet and house paint. That was the first seed of Los Del Sur.

The birth of Los Del Sur: from the field to the stadium

The official history of Los Del Sur says the fan group was founded in 1992, but true insiders know the spirit existed long before. What happened in the 80s was a consolidation. The kids who had started going to the stadium from La Toma began to organize. They started bringing bass drums, chanting songs they made up on the neighborhood corners, painting walls with the DIM name.

The name "Los Del Sur" is no coincidence. At the Atanasio Girardot stadium, the south stand was always the most popular, the cheapest, the one occupied by the real fans. And the kids from Manrique, who came from the upper part of the city, felt identified with that stand. Not only because of the price, but because from there you could see the whole stadium, and it was where the noise felt loudest.

But the bond with La Toma was never broken. Throughout the 80s and 90s, the field remained the place where Los Del Sur members would gather before games. There they planned trips, rehearsed chants, settled internal disputes. La Toma was the general headquarters, ground zero for a fan base that kept growing.

A testimony from Don Jairo, a 68-year-old man who lived his whole life on 104th Street, sums it up well: "Here at La Toma we learned to be fans. It wasn't just about going to the stadium, it was about feeling like the whole neighborhood was with you. When DIM won, the party went down from La Toma to the avenue. When they lost, we'd sit on the stones and talk about soccer until dark."

How the physical space shaped the neighborhood's identity

La Toma is not just a field. It is a symbol of how public space can create community. In Manrique, the streets are narrow, sidewalks are almost non-existent, and parks are small. La Toma, with its wide, open terrain, became the only place where young people could gather without feeling cramped. Soccer was played there, but also political meetings, birthday celebrations, and bazaars were organized to raise money for the team's trips.

That identity of a working-class neighborhood, of people who hustle, is reflected in the way they cheer for DIM. Los Del Sur is not an elegant fan group; they don't have choreographed routines or imported flags. They are loud, intense, sometimes violent. But all of that was born at La Toma, where the competition wasn't just against the rival team, but against the tough life of the neighborhood itself.

Today, in July 2026, La Toma remains a reference point. Although the neighborhood has changed —there are more buildings, more stores, more traffic— the field remains almost the same. It is still dirt, still has the same stones, and is still the place where neighborhood kids learn to kick a ball. And although Los Del Sur no longer meets there before games (they now have a local in the center), the memory of the place lives on.

What to do in La Toma and its surroundings

If you want to visit La Toma, don't expect a tourist spot. There are no gourmet restaurants or souvenir shops. What you'll find is neighborhood life, authentic and unfiltered. Here are some ideas of what to do in the area:

• Walk the field: Arrive early, when the sun isn't too strong yet. Walk the ground, feel the dirt under your feet. If there's a game, stay and watch. The locals are friendly and will tell you stories if you ask.
• Visit the La Cruz sector: Walk a few blocks up from La Toma and you'll reach La Cruz, a natural viewpoint with a view of all of Medellín. From there you can see the center, the Atanasio Girardot Stadium, and on clear days, even the Cerro del Padre Amaya.
• Eat on 104th Street: The main avenue of Manrique is full of street food stalls. Try an arepa de chócolo with cheese, a salchipapa, or a hot dog. Prices are affordable: an arepa costs around $5,000 COP (reference prices from July 2026).
• Look for DIM-themed graffiti: On the walls around La Toma, there are several murals painted by Los Del Sur fans. Some are years old, others are recent. They are part of the neighborhood's visual heritage.

Where to eat or drink near La Toma

Manrique is not a trendy gastronomic area, but it has authentic and affordable options. Here are some recommendations:

• La Tienda de Don Carlos (104th Street # 49-20): A small place that sells empanadas, pastries, and sodas. It's the meeting point for neighbors after games at La Toma. Open Monday to Saturday, 8am to 8pm.
• Asadero El Manriqueño (50th Avenue with 103rd Street): Specializes in grilled chicken and charcoal-grilled meat. A full meal costs between $15,000 and $25,000 COP. Ideal for eating after a walk. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11am to 10pm.
• La Esquina del Sabor (105th Street # 48-30): They sell bandeja paisa and chicken sancocho. It's a set-menu restaurant, with dishes from $12,000 COP. Open Monday to Saturday, 10am to 5pm.

If you want a drink, look for the corner stores around La Toma. They sell cold beer, aguardiente, and natural juices. Don't expect craft cocktails, but you will find a relaxed atmosphere and soccer talk.

How to get to La Toma and transportation

Getting to La Toma is easy if you know the routes. Here's how:

• By Metro: Take line A to the Manrique station. From there, exit to the avenue and look for a bus or mototaxi that goes up to the upper part. The bus ride costs $2,900 COP (July 2026).
• By bus: From downtown Medellín, take any bus that says "Manrique" or "La Cruz." Ask the driver to drop you near the La Toma field. Most routes go along 104th Street.
• By taxi or app: Request an Uber or Didi to the address "104th Street with 48th Avenue, Manrique." The trip from downtown costs between $10,000 and $15,000 COP. From El Poblado, it can cost up to $30,000 COP.
• Walking: If you are in the lower part of Manrique, you can walk up. It's about a 20-minute steep climb. Bring water and comfortable shoes.

Local tips for visiting La Toma

• Don't go alone at night: The area is safe during the day, but like any working-class neighborhood, there can be strange movements at night. Better to visit in the morning or afternoon, before 7pm.
• Ask before taking photos: The people in the neighborhood are friendly, but some don't like having their picture taken without permission. Always ask, especially if you are going to photograph people or private homes.
• Bring cash: The stores and food stalls near La Toma do not accept cards. Bring small bills of $2,000, $5,000, and $10,000 COP.
• If there's a DIM game, the atmosphere changes: On game days, La Toma fills with fans who gather before heading to the stadium. The atmosphere is festive, but it can also be intense. If you are not a DIM fan, it's best not to wear other team's jerseys.
• Talk to the older neighbors: The men and women who live near La Toma have incredible stories. If they see you're interested, they will tell you what the neighborhood was like before, how Los Del Sur was formed, and who the local players were that went far.

Fun fact: the first trip of Los Del Sur

Few know that the first organized trip of Los Del Sur was not to another department, but to the neighboring city of Bello. In 1987, a group of 15 kids from La Toma got on a "bus escalera" (one of those with wooden benches) to go see DIM play against Atlético Nacional at the Bello stadium. They didn't have money for tickets, so they snuck in through a hole in the fence. That day, DIM lost 2-1, but they came back singing the whole way. That anecdote is still told at fan group meetings.

Frequently asked questions

Is La Toma a safe place to visit?

Yes, especially during the day. Manrique is a working-class neighborhood with a close-knit community. As in any area of the city, you should be cautious with valuables and avoid lonely streets at night. It is recommended to go in a group or with a local who knows the area.

Does Los Del Sur still meet at La Toma?

Not regularly anymore. The fan group has a local in downtown Medellín where they hold meetings and plan activities. However, many veteran fans still gather at La Toma on weekends to remember old times or play informal games. The place remains an emotional reference point.

Is there any special event at La Toma related to soccer?

Every year, around the founding date of Los Del Sur (August 16), some neighbors organize micro-soccer tournaments at La Toma in honor of the first fans. It is not an official event, but it is a tradition that keeps the memory alive.