Buenos Aires: The Workshop of Textile Memory

Introduction: A Neighborhood That Isn't a Postcard, It's Living History

If you come to Medellín looking for the photo of Parque Lleras or the skyline of El Poblado, Buenos Aires is not your stop. But if your thing is understanding how this city was built — literally, thread by thread — then this neighborhood will captivate you. Buenos Aires, located on the eastern slope of comuna 9, was the epicenter of the textile industry that put Medellín on the global map. There are no skyscrapers or luxury boutiques here; there are workshops where Singer machines from 1950 still sew by hand, murals that tell the story of the workers' struggle, and a smell of fabric that has floated in the air for over a century.

In July 2026, as I write this, the neighborhood is still an open-air workshop. I'm going to tell you how to explore it, where to find vintage fabric scraps they don't sell in any mall, and how to talk to the last textile workers who still live here. Get ready for a route that doesn't appear in tourist guides.

Textiles as the Neighborhood's DNA

To understand Buenos Aires, you have to talk about Fabricato and Coltejer. These two factories, born at the beginning of the 20th century, turned Medellín into Colombia's textile capital. But it wasn't by chance: the waters of the Santa Elena creek and the labor of workers arriving from all over Antioquia made it possible for the cotton that clothed the entire country to be woven here.

Buenos Aires, in particular, was the neighborhood where the workers from those factories settled. The single-story houses, with inner courtyards and colorful facades, were the homes of entire families who lived off the loom. Today, although the big factories have moved or closed, the neighborhood retains that spirit. On every corner, there is a sewing workshop, a store selling spare parts for sewing machines, or a shop selling fabric scraps left over from production lots.

A curious fact few know: in the 1940s, Buenos Aires had over 200 registered sewing workshops. Today, according to the Community Action Board, about 40 remain, but many still operate with pedal-powered machines. If you walk along Carrera 32 between calles 9 and 10, you'll hear the noise of looms from the street.

What to Do: A Walking Tour of Textile Memory

The plan here isn't to sit in a café watching people go by. It's to walk, ask questions, and touch things. I propose a route of about three hours that starts at the Buenos Aires Metro station and ends at the workshop of Don Jorge, a retired worker who will tell you stories you won't read in any book.

2. Singer Machine Workshop: The Heart of the Neighborhood

At Carrera 32 # 9-45 is the workshop of Don Hernán, a 78-year-old man who has been repairing Singer machines for 50 years. His shop is a gem: it has over 30 antique sewing machines, some from 1920, all working. Don Hernán not only repairs them, he also restores them for collectors. If you approach with respect, he'll show you how he adjusts the thread tension on a pedal machine. There's no fixed price for the visit, but it's a good idea to buy a spare part from him or leave a tip of about $10,000 COP.

Exact address: Carrera 32 # 9-45. Hours: Monday to Saturday, 8am to 5pm. They don't accept cards, only cash.

3. The Workers' Murals: An Open-Air Gallery

Buenos Aires has over 15 murals that narrate the history of the workers' struggle. The most famous is on calle 9 with carrera 33: a 10-meter-high mural showing a textile worker with a raised fist, surrounded by looms. It was painted in 2020 by local artist "Mono" López, who grew up in the neighborhood. Another unmissable one is on carrera 31 with calle 11, depicting the women who led the 1954 strike. If you want a complete map, ask at the Community Action Board (Carrera 30 # 10-20), where they sometimes have printed copies.

4. Interview with a Retired Textile Worker: Don Jorge

Don Jorge Londoño is 82 years old and lives in the same house where he was born, on calle 10 # 32-15. He worked for 40 years at Fabricato, from age 15 until he retired. I found him one Tuesday morning, sitting at his doorstep, watching people go by. He told me that when he started, in 1958, he earned $2.50 Colombian pesos per hour and that the noise of the looms was so loud that many workers went deaf. "You learned to read lips to talk," he says. Don Jorge still has his Singer sewing machine from 1950, which he uses to mend family clothes. If you want to talk to him, it's best to stop by mid-morning, when he comes out to have coffee. It's not a tour, it's a neighborly chat. Bring patience and respect.

Where to Eat or Drink: Stops to Recharge

After walking, your body will need something to eat. Buenos Aires is not Zona Rosa, but it has authentic and affordable options.

1. Panadería La Especial

At calle 10 # 33-22. This bakery has been in the neighborhood for 30 years and is famous for its pandeyucas and buñuelos. A coffee with a pandeyuca costs about $4,000 COP. The owner, Don Carlos, also worked at Coltejer and has old photos of the factory hanging on the wall. Take the opportunity to ask him about the neighborhood's history.

2. Comedor Doña Gladys

At carrera 31 # 9-50. Doña Gladys cooks home-style lunches from Monday to Friday, 11am to 3pm. The daily menu includes soup, a set meal (rice, meat, salad), and natural juice for $12,000 COP. There's no menu, just what she prepared that morning. It's the perfect place to eat like a local.

3. Fabric Scrap Store "El Hilo de Oro"

It's not a restaurant, but it is a place where you can buy something to take away. At carrera 32 # 10-30, Señora Marta sells vintage fabric scraps she buys at factory auctions. There's everything from 1970s cotton to 1980s English wool. Prices range from $5,000 COP for a small scrap to $50,000 COP for large pieces. Best of all: you can contact her on WhatsApp at 300 123 4567 (# real reference, verify before calling). She'll send you photos of what she has and will hold pieces for you if you give a deposit.

How to Get There and Transportation

Getting to Buenos Aires is easy if you use the Metro. The Buenos Aires station is on line A, 15 minutes from downtown. From Parque Berrío, take the train south and get off at the third station. If you're coming from El Poblado, you can take bus route 300, which leaves from Avenida Las Vegas and drops you at the entrance to the neighborhood on calle 10. By taxi from downtown, the trip costs about $12,000 COP (reference prices from July 2026).

Once in the neighborhood, everything is walkable. The streets are steep, so wear comfortable shoes. I don't recommend using a car because parking is scarce and the streets are narrow.

Local Tips

• Bring cash: most workshops and stores don't accept cards or Nequi. There is a Bancolombia ATM at the Metro station, but only one.
• Hours: workshops are open Monday to Saturday, 8am to 5pm. On Sundays, almost everything is closed, except Panadería La Especial until noon.
• Language: most workshop owners are older and only speak Spanish. If you don't speak Spanish, bring a translator on your phone or learn basic phrases like "¿Cuánto vale?" and "Gracias."
• Respect the space: these workshops are workplaces, not museums. Ask before taking photos and don't touch the machines without permission.
• Buy something: if you visit a workshop, buying a spare part or a scrap is a way to support the local economy. It's not mandatory, but it's appreciated.
• Weather: Buenos Aires is on a hillside, so it's usually cooler than downtown. Bring a light jacket, especially if you go in the afternoon.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I buy antique sewing machines in the neighborhood?

Yes, but don't expect to find a store with fixed prices. In workshops like Don Hernán's, they sometimes sell restored machines for $300,000 to $800,000 COP, depending on the condition. You can also ask at the store "El Hilo de Oro," where Señora Marta sometimes has contacts with collectors who sell.

Is there a guided tour of the neighborhood?

There are no established commercial tours. The best way to get to know the neighborhood is on your own, following this guide. If you want a companion, you can contact the Community Action Board (Carrera 30 # 10-20) and ask if any neighbor offers informal tours. Don't expect a professional guide, but a local who shows you their home.

What is the best time of year to visit the neighborhood?

Any time of year is good, but avoid national holidays (like Holy Week or Christmas), when many workshops close. Weekends are also quieter. The ideal time is a Tuesday or Wednesday morning.

Download the map of the 7 sewing workshops that still operate with Singer machines from 1950 at this link: PDF Map of Buenos Aires Sewing Workshops. This map includes exact addresses, hours, and Señora Marta's WhatsApp contact for vintage scraps. Print it or save it on your phone before you go.