The Murals You Don't See: Graffiti as the Secret Archive of Paisa Culture in Medellín (and How to Decipher Them)

Introduction: Graffiti as a Historical Document

In Medellín, graffiti is not just paint on a wall. It is a secret archive that tells the story of a city that went from being the most violent in the world to a benchmark of social transformation. But most tourists walk past these murals without understanding what they really say. They see them as pretty photos for Instagram, when in reality, every stroke, every color, and every symbol hides a layer of meaning that only locals know how to read. In July 2026, as you walk through the streets of this city, you will come across hundreds of works that speak of resistance, memory, and Paisa pride. This article is so you can learn to decipher them.

Urban art in Medellín was born in the working-class neighborhoods, not in galleries. During the 80s and 90s, when drug trafficking and armed conflict dominated the streets, young people began to paint as a way of saying "I exist" amidst the chaos. Over time, graffiti became a tool of historical memory: the walls tell what textbooks omit. Today, the city has over 1,200 registered murals, but the most powerful ones are not on the traditional tourist circuits. They are on the corners of neighborhoods like San Javier, Manrique, or 20 de Julio, waiting for someone to read them.

Visual Codes: Symbols That Tell Stories of Resistance

To understand the murals of Medellín, you need to know the visual alphabet used by the artists. It is not an academic language, but one that emerges from the street, from the victims, and from the survivors. Here I explain the most common symbols you will find:

• Yellow butterflies: Inspired by the novel "One Hundred Years of Solitude" by Gabriel García Márquez, but in Medellín they represent the victims of the armed conflict. When you see a yellow butterfly in a mural, it is a tribute to someone who died or disappeared. You find them especially in Comuna 13 and the Manrique neighborhood.
• Green mountains: The Andes mountain range that surrounds the Aburrá Valley is a symbol of belonging. But when the mountains appear with cracks or dark colors, they indicate the scars left by the war on the territory. Murals in the Centro area usually show them cleaner; those on the periphery, more broken.
• Open hands: A gesture of peace, but also of resistance. In Paisa culture, open hands mean "don't touch me." They appear in murals of neighborhoods that resisted paramilitary violence, such as in the La Sierra sector or the Santo Domingo neighborhood.
• Arepas and coffee: It is not decorative food. The arepa represents daily work, the food of common people. Coffee, on the other hand, is a symbol of Paisa pride and the economy that sustained the region for decades. When you see a painted arepa in a mural, it is a reminder that popular culture does not give up.
• Carnival masks: In Medellín, masks are not just for partying. They represent the duality of a city that has had to hide its pain behind smiles. You find them in murals of the Feria de las Flores, but also in works that criticize social hypocrisy.

A curious fact: the most repeated symbol in the murals of Medellín is the white dove, but it is not the generic dove of peace. Local artists paint it with a broken beak or a tied foot, to show that peace in Colombia has been fragile and often incomplete. If you see a dove with a broken beak, you know the mural is talking about the peace agreements that were not fulfilled.

The Murals of Comuna 13 vs. Those of El Poblado: Two Opposing Narratives

Medellín has two faces when it comes to urban art, and understanding the difference is key to not falling into cliché. Comuna 13 and El Poblado are the two opposite poles of the same city, and their murals reflect this.

Comuna 13: The Archive of Resistance

Comuna 13 is the epicenter of memory graffiti. Here, the murals are not decoration; they are records of denunciation. During the 2000s, this neighborhood was one of the most violent in Medellín, with military operations that left hundreds of victims. The murals you see today on the outdoor escalator and main streets were painted by local artists like Chota, Felipe Bedoya, and the collective Arte Sin Fronteras. Each work has a date, a name, or a specific event. For example, the mural "El Grito de los 13" on calle 13 with carrera 108 commemorates the young people killed in a 2002 massacre. It is not a pretty mural; it is a painted scream.

Tourist tours take you to Comuna 13 and show you the largest, most colorful murals, but they rarely explain the symbolism. If you want to understand them, look for those with phrases like "Nunca más" or "Memoria viva." Those are the ones that tell the real story. The artists of Comuna 13 use bright colors not out of joy, but to contrast with the pain. It is a way of saying: "this was terrible, but we are still here."

El Poblado: The Open-Air Gallery

In El Poblado, especially in the Zona Rosa and Parque Lleras, the murals are more commercial. They were commissioned by restaurants, hotels, and brands to attract tourists. Here you see graffiti in abstract style, large letters, and pastel colors, but they rarely have political or social content. An example is the mural on calle 10 with carrera 36, which shows a girl with sunglasses and a sloth. It is cute, but it doesn't tell anything about the history of Medellín. This contrast is important: while Comuna 13 uses art to heal, El Poblado uses it to sell.

However, there are exceptions. In El Poblado there are also murals by artists like Stinkfish and Bastardilla, who, although they paint on commission, include elements of Paisa culture, such as silhouettes of women with braids or stray dogs. But if you want to understand the true Paisa culture through graffiti, you have to leave El Poblado. Don't just stick with the postcard.

Hidden Route: Murals That Don't Appear on Tourist Tours

Traditional tours take you to Comuna 13, the Centro, and sometimes to the Zona Norte. But there are incredible murals that are not on the tourist maps. Here is a self-guided route for you to find them on your own. They are works that locals themselves consider hidden gems.

• San Javier Neighborhood (Comuna 13, but beyond the escalator): Go up to the upper part of San Javier, near the Metrocable station. There is a giant mural of a woman with a bird on her head, painted by artist Julián Giraldo. It represents the mothers searching for the disappeared. There is no sign explaining it, but the neighbors will tell you the story if you ask.
• Manrique Neighborhood (Comuna 3): On carrera 44 with calle 71, there is a 20-meter-long mural showing a line of people walking towards a mountain. It is a tribute to those displaced by violence. It was painted by the collective La Ciudad Invisible in 2019. Almost no tour includes it because it is on a residential street, not a tourist route.
• 20 de Julio Neighborhood (Comuna 8): Near the main park, there is a mural of a child with a broken kite. The kite represents dreams cut short by poverty. It is a work by local artist Mauricio Rincón. On weekends, the neighborhood children play soccer next to it, and the mural seems to come to life.
• La Candelaria (Centro): On calle 10 with carrera 2, behind the San José church, there is a mural of a flying arepa. It sounds absurd, but it is a critique of gentrification: the arepa, a symbol of popular food, rises because it is no longer accessible to locals. It was painted by El Pez, a street artist known for his satires.
• Belén Neighborhood (Comuna 16): On avenida 80 with calle 30, there is a mural of a bicycle with wings. It is a tribute to cyclists who died in traffic accidents. On weekends, local cyclists leave flowers at the foot of the mural. It is not a tourist spot, but it is one of the most emotional in the city.

To do this route, I recommend downloading the Malokal map (malokal.com) with the exact coordinates. You can also ask at the neighborhood stores: the owners usually know who painted each mural and what it means.

How to Interpret Paisa Iconography: From the Arepa to the Mountain

Paisa culture has its own visual language that is repeated in the murals. It is not a coincidence. Here I explain how to read the most common elements:

• The arepa: More than food, it is a symbol of economic resistance. In murals from working-class neighborhoods, the arepa always appears whole, never split, because it represents family unity. If you see an arepa with a hole in the center, it is a critique of the lack of opportunities.
• The mountain: The mountain range is the backdrop of Medellín, but in the murals it becomes a character. When the mountain is spiral-shaped, it means the cycle of violence and peace. When it has sharp peaks, it represents danger. Murals in Comuna 13 often have mountains with broken peaks, alluding to bullets.
• Coffee: The coffee leaf is a symbol of Paisa pride, but also of exploitation. In murals in the Centro, the coffee leaf appears with chains, reminding that the coffee economy was built on precarious labor. In those of El Poblado, the coffee leaf is more stylized, almost decorative.
• The carriel: The typical Antioquian bag appears in murals that talk about the muleteer culture. If the carriel is closed, it means the journey is not over yet. If it is open, it shows that the past is exposed. It is a symbol used by artists to talk about migration.
• The female silhouette: Women in Medellín's murals are not just muses. They represent mothers, workers, and victims. If the woman has her arms crossed, it is a sign of resistance. If she has her hands extended, it is a plea. The most powerful murals in the city are those that show women with their faces covered, because they speak of the disappeared.

A fact few know: in Comuna 13 there is a mural showing a clock without hands. It is on calle 13 with carrera 107. The artist, Jhonatan Zapata, painted it to say that time stopped for the victims. When you see it, you will understand that urban art in Medellín is not just aesthetic: it is an archive of what must not be forgotten.

How to Get There and Transportation

To see the murals of Medellín, you don't need an expensive tour. The public transportation system takes you to almost all the key points. Here are the routes for the neighborhoods we mentioned:

• Comuna 13 (San Javier): Take the Metro to the San Javier station (line B). Then, take the Metrocable to the San Javier II station. From there, walk towards the outdoor escalator. The clock without hands mural is a 5-minute walk away, on calle 13 with carrera 107.
• Manrique Neighborhood: Metro to the Manrique station (line A). Then, take a bus to the upper part (bus "Manrique Oriental"). The displaced persons mural is on carrera 44 with calle 71. Ask the driver to let you know.
• 20 de Julio Neighborhood: Metro to the 20 de Julio station (line A). Walk towards the main park. The child with the kite mural is one block away, on calle 11 with carrera 6.
• La Candelaria: Metro to the Parque Berrío station (line A). Walk towards the San José church. The flying arepa mural is on calle 10 with carrera 2.
• Belén Neighborhood: Metro to the Belén station (line A). Then, take a bus towards avenida 80. The bicycle with wings mural is on avenida 80 with calle 30.

If you prefer to walk, the Centro and El Poblado are easy to explore on foot. But for the peripheral neighborhoods, I recommend using the Metrocable: it is safe, cheap (2,600 COP per trip in July 2026), and gives you spectacular views of the city. Do not use taxis at night in unknown areas; better use Uber or Didi.

Local Tips

For your mural experience to be authentic and respectful, follow these tips from someone who lives in Medellín:

• Do not touch the paintings: The murals are community heritage. Touching the paint, scratching it, or standing on it is disrespectful. Neighbors may call you out.
• Ask before photographing people: In working-class neighborhoods, people may feel uncomfortable if you take their photos without permission. Always ask, especially if there are children.
• Bring cash: In neighborhoods like Manrique or San Javier, street vendors sell empanadas and coffee. Buying from them is a way to support the local economy. Bring small bills (2,000, 5,000 COP).
• Visit in the morning: The murals look best in natural light. Also, in the morning there are fewer tourists and you can talk to the neighbors. From 8am to 11am is the best time.
• Do not use headphones: The sound of the neighborhood is part of the experience. Listen to the noise of children, dogs, music from the houses. That connects you to the story the murals tell.
• Download the Malokal map: On malokal.com you will find a downloadable map with the coordinates of the hidden murals we mentioned. It is free and updated as of July 2026.

An extra tip: if you see a mural with a small signature in the corner, like "Chota" or "Bastardilla," take a photo. Those artists are local legends. You can look them up on Instagram and see their other works.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it safe to visit the murals in neighborhoods like Comuna 13 or Manrique?

Yes, it is safe if you go during the day and in a group. Comuna 13 is one of the most touristy neighborhoods in Medellín today, with a constant police and guide presence. Manrique and 20 de Julio are also safe during the day, but avoid going at night. Carry only what you need (camera, cash, cell phone) and do not display valuables. Locals are friendly and will help you if you ask for directions.

How much does a self-guided mural tour cost?

Almost nothing. Public transportation costs 2,600 COP per trip on the Metro or Metrocable (July 2026). If you walk, it is free. Guided tours cost between 50,000 and 100,000 COP per person, but with this article you can do it on your own. The downloadable Malokal map is free.

Do the murals change frequently?

Yes, some murals are painted over each year, especially in Comuna 13, where there are annual festivals like "Medellín Grafiti." Others, like the flying arepa or the clock without hands, have remained intact for years because the community protects them. If you want to see the most recent ones, visit in August during the Feria de las Flores, when there are new works.

What to Do

Comuna 13

A tour of Comuna 13 is essential. This neighborhood has evolved from being one of the most dangerous to becoming a symbol of social transformation through urban art. The murals here tell stories of resistance and hope. Insider Tip: Join a guided tour by local artists, who will not only show you the murals but also share anecdotes about their meaning and the history of the place.

Parque de los Deseos

This park is a cultural space where events and outdoor screenings are frequently held. Additionally, there are murals that reflect the Paisa identity and its love for art. Insider Tip: Attend scheduled activities, such as outdoor cinema and art workshops, to connect more with the community and the message conveyed by the murals.

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Where to Eat or Drink

El Poblado

Known for its vibrant nightlife, El Poblado is the ideal place to enjoy local gastronomy. From gourmet restaurants to small cafes, here you can find a wide variety of options that reflect the fusion of Paisa cuisine with international influences.

Insider Tip: Don't miss the opportunity to try a "bandeja paisa" at one of the traditional restaurants, like "El Rancherito." Also, look for the "street painters" who are often found in the surroundings, offering a direct connection to the local culture.

La 70

This famous street is known for its festive atmosphere and gastronomic diversity. La 70 is full of bars and restaurants offering everything from arepas to typical regional dishes, perfect for a night out.

Insider Tip: Visit "La Tienda de la Abuela" to enjoy an authentic "ajiaco." Then, explore the variety of craft beers offered in the nearby bars. It is an excellent place to meet locals and immerse yourself in Paisa culture.

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