The Muleteers' Code: How Trade Routes Shaped Medellín

Origins

The muleteers were the invisible architects of Medellín. Before paved roads or railways existed, these men and their mules blazed the first trade routes that connected the city to the rest of the country. Their code of honor and knowledge of the territory allowed Antioquia to become an economic hub from the 18th century onwards.

It all began with the need to transport gold from the mines of northeastern Antioquia to the ports of the Magdalena River. The muleteers created routes that would later be used to carry coffee, textiles, and other products. They used simple but effective tools: machetes to clear trails, fique ropes, and rubber-soled espadrilles that could withstand the mud.

Geography as Ally and Enemy

Medellín was not easy to connect. Located in a valley surrounded by mountains, the muleteers had to master passes like Alto de Boquerón (at 2,600 meters above sea level) and Alto de Minas, where horseshoe marks can still be seen on the stones today. A little-known fact: many of the sharp curves on current roads follow the original layout of those mule trails.

Historical Timeline

1700-1800: The First Trails

• 1730: The Medellín-Rionegro-Santafé de Antioquia route, known as the "Salt Road," was established.
• 1780: The first muleteer inns appeared in Marinilla and El Peñol.

1800-1900: The Golden Age

• 1826: Over 5,000 mules were recorded transiting the Royal Road monthly.
• 1850: Coffee replaced gold as the main cargo. A muleteer could transport up to 12 arrobas (138 kg) per mule.
• 1874: The Antioquia Railway was inaugurated, competing with but not eliminating muleteering.

1900-Present: Decline and Legacy

• 1920: The first Ford trucks began to replace mule trains.
• 1950: Only muleteers remained in remote rural areas.
• 2004: The Mayor's Office declared the muleteer tradition Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Key Figures and Events

Pedro Justo Berrío, governor of Antioquia (1864-1873), promoted the construction of roads for muleteers. Under his administration, the passage through Alto de Ventanas was improved, reducing travel time to Manizales from 8 to 5 days.

The muleteer inns were key points. In Medellín, the most famous was located where Parque Berrío is today. For 100 pesos of the time (equivalent to $15,000 COP in April 2026), a muleteer received a bed, food for himself, and fodder for his mules.

The Language of the Muleteers

They developed a unique vocabulary that still survives in Paisa expressions:

• "Echar los perros" (literally "to throw the dogs"): to warn of danger on the road (originally dogs were released to alert of thieves).
• "Jineteársela" (literally "to ride it"): to solve problems on the fly, like when a mule bolted.
• "No dar papaya" (literally "don't give papaya"): do not leave loads unattended (papayas were easily stealable treats).

Current Status

Although you won't see muleteers crossing El Poblado anymore, their legacy lives on:

Infrastructure

Avenida Guayabal, one of the main avenues in Medellín, follows the path of the old Camino de Nare that led to the Magdalena. In April 2026, a section of the original cobblestone path is still preserved in the La Palma sector, near the Olaya Herrera Airport.

Culture

Every December, the Parade of Myths and Legends includes a float of muleteers. The Museo de Antioquia has a collection of original tools, including a very rare 19th-century pack saddle.

Gastronomy

Typical dishes like the bandeja paisa were the "fast food" of the muleteers: energy-rich foods that didn't spoil quickly. At Mercado del Río, you can try modern versions, but for an authentic experience, visit Hacienda Junín (Km 12 on the Las Palmas road), which was a muleteer inn and is now a restaurant.

To explore this legacy: Walk the Arví ecological trail, which uses parts of the historic routes, or visit the town of Santa Fe de Antioquia, where every July the National Muleteer Festival is held with loading demonstrations and whistling contests (the sound code for guiding mules).

Timeline or Historical Milestones

• 16th Century: The Arrival of the Muleteers

  Muleteers began establishing trade routes between Medellín and other regions, using their mules to transport cocoa, coffee, and other products. This activity laid the foundation for commerce in the city.

• 1860: The Founding of the Medellín Chamber of Commerce

  This year marked an important milestone in the organization of local merchants, who sought to regulate and promote trade in the region, strengthening the influence of muleteers in the economy.

• 1880: The Coffee Boom

  Coffee production became a fundamental pillar of the Antioquian economy. Muleteers played a crucial role in distributing the beans to national and international markets, consolidating Medellín as a coffee center.

• 1940: The Arrival of the Railway

  With the construction of the railway from Medellín to Puerto Berrío, the role of muleteers began to change. Although their importance diminished, their legacy remains present in the local culture and economy.

• 2000 Onwards: The Revitalization of Cultural Heritage

  Today, initiatives are underway to preserve the legacy of the muleteers in Medellín. Various museums and festivals celebrate their history, remembering the importance of these figures in building the Paisa identity.

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