The Code of the 'Cuchitos': The Secret Network of Workers' Eateries in the Pasajes of Guayaquil

The Center Is Not Just Tourism: The Invisible Economy of the Pasajes

If you work in the center of Medellín, you know that between 12:00 noon and 1:30 in the afternoon, the city changes its skin. Clothing stores half-close their metal curtains, cell phone vendors put away their display cases, and an army of office workers, messengers, and merchants goes out to find the only thing that matters at that hour: lunch. While tourists crowd into the Plazuela de San Ignacio or the restaurants on Avenida Junín, those of us who truly live the city know that the best food is hidden in the pasajes of Guayaquil, in those narrow corridors where the smell of sweat and hogao mix with the noise of cash registers.

We affectionately call them "cuchitos," not out of disdain, but out of the familiarity with which we treat them. They are those workers' eateries that fit into a three-meter-wide locale, with shared tables and the menu written on an acrylic board with a dry-erase marker. In August 2026, while the center continues to transform with specialty coffee shops and boutique hostels, these places remain the economic heart of the city. Here there are no English menus or influencers taking photos. There is rice, beans, meat, and the conversation of those who sustain Medellín with their daily work.

I'm going to tell you exactly where to find these treasures, how to order like a local, and what to expect when you pay less than 15,000 COP for a full lunch. Because yes, they still exist, and they are more alive than ever.

The 5 Key Pasajes: Where the Real Food of the Center Is

Before going into detail, a clarification: the pasajes of Guayaquil are a labyrinth of commercial corridors that connect Plaza de Cisneros with Avenida La Playa. Not all of them have eateries, but those that do guard some of the best-kept gastronomic secrets of the city. Here are my five favorites, with their approximate location and their signature dish.

1. Pasaje Junín (Between Calle 50 and Calle 51)

This is the most well-known and the busiest. Don't confuse it with Avenida Junín, which is the pedestrian street full of jewelry stores. Pasaje Junín is a covered corridor that leads out to the Plazuela de San Ignacio, and on its second floors hide eateries that have been operating for over 30 years. The signature dish here is the "seco de pollo con patacón," a classic they prepare with a chicken stew that melts in your mouth. The locales are small, with capacity for about 15 people, and by 12:30 PM they are already full.

What many don't know: on the second floor of Pasaje Junín there is an eatery that only opens Monday through Friday and has a line that goes down the stairs. It has no name on the facade, just a yellow sign that says "ALMUERZOS." The owner, a man of about 70 years old, cooks himself starting at 6 in the morning. Order the full "corrientazo," and if you arrive before 1:00 PM, you'll probably get a table. After that, be prepared to share with strangers, which is part of the experience.

2. Pasaje La Bastilla (Carrera 50 with Calle 50)

This pasaje is less known among tourists but is the favorite of employees from the insurance and bank buildings in the area. Here the eateries are larger, some with capacity for 40 people, and the atmosphere is more organized. The signature dish is the "bandejo de batalla": a tray with rice, beans, grilled meat, chicharrón, fried egg, avocado, and arepa. It's not the full bandeja paisa of tourist restaurants, but a condensed version that fills your stomach for hours.

The price is around 13,000 COP and includes a starter soup, which is usually a beef rib broth or a vegetable soup. The secret here is in the house sauce, a mix of hogao with a touch of cumin that no one can replicate. If you ask, some cooks will sell you a small cup of that sauce for an extra 2,000 COP. Worth every peso.

3. Galería La Playa (Entrance on Calle 50 with Carrera 49)

This is a commercial pasaje that connects with Avenida La Playa and has a peculiarity: the eateries are in the basements. Yes, you have to go down steep stairs, and the smell of fried food greets you before you reach the first step. But it's worth it. The signature dish here is the "sudado de res con yuca," a dish that takes hours to cook and is served with white rice and a simple tomato and onion salad.

What's interesting about these basements is that some have long tables in an old cafeteria style, with plastic tablecloths with flower patterns. It's the perfect place to observe the dynamics of the center: lawyers eating alongside street vendors, all treated equally. The average price is 11,000 COP, and the starter soup is the most generous of all the pasajes. However, there is no air conditioning. In August, be prepared to sweat while you eat.

4. Pasaje Comercial El Suceso (Carrera 48 between Calles 49 and 50)

This pasaje is the least touristy of all and the one that best preserves the essence of the Medellín of the 80s. The eateries here are small, family-run, and many have the kitchen in view of the customer. The signature dish is the "hígado encebollado con arroz y patacón," a dish many avoid out of prejudice but that they prepare exceptionally here: the liver is cooked over high heat with onion, garlic, and a touch of beer. It comes out tender, without that metallic taste that repels many.

The price is the lowest on the list: 10,000 COP for the full plate with soup and natural fruit juice (usually guava or passion fruit). The juice is served in a thick glass, the kind you can't find anywhere anymore. The cooks here are older women who have been in the trade for decades and have no problem sharing their tricks if you ask respectfully.

5. Pasaje Córdoba (Between Carrera 48 and 49, Calle 50)

We close with the most famous pasaje in the area, known for its clothing and accessories trade, but which also has its hidden gastronomic gems. Here the eateries are on the mezzanines, those half-level spaces built in the 70s that are now coveted for their location. The signature dish is the "pescado frito con arroz de coco y patacones," a rarity in the center of Medellín that is prepared on Fridays, when the Catholic tradition of eating fish is still alive.

The price is 14,000 COP and the portion is generous: a whole fish (usually mojarra) fried with a crispy layer, accompanied by coconut rice prepared with fresh coconut milk. On Fridays, this place fills up before any other, and you have to arrive before 12:15 PM if you want a table. The local recommendation is to order the fish with "everything": patacones, salad, and a lemon to squeeze on top.

The 'Corrientazo' Ritual: How to Survive and Enjoy the Experience

Now that you know where to eat, you need to know how to do it. Because the eateries of the pasajes have their own rules, unwritten but respected rigorously. The first is the schedule. The peak is between 12:00 PM and 1:30 PM. If you arrive at 12:45 PM, expect a line. If you arrive at 1:30 PM, many places are already closing up because the food has run out. The locals' strategy is to arrive at 11:45 AM, before the peak, and order right away. That way you avoid the line and get the best table.

The second rule is how to order. Don't say "I want the daily menu" or "What do you have?" because that gives away that you're new. The correct thing is to ask "What's on today?" or simply say "Córrame un seco" if you already know what you want. The "seco" is the meat or chicken dish with rice, potato or yuca, and salad. If you want more variety, order the "corrientazo," which includes soup, main dish, and juice. Most places include the juice in the price, but some charge it separately. Always ask "Is the juice included?" before ordering.

The third rule is the table. In most eateries, tables are shared. If you arrive alone, sit wherever there's space and don't expect to get an individual table. It's normal for a stranger to sit across from you and for both of you to eat in silence or exchange a couple of words about the weather or traffic. It's part of the unwritten etiquette: don't get uncomfortable, it's not disrespect, it's efficiency. It's also normal for someone to ask "Can you pass the salt?" or "Can you pass the ají?" Respond kindly and everything will flow.

A fourth rule that many ignore: the tip. In these places, tipping is not customary, but if the service was good and the food excellent, rounding up the payment (for example, paying 12,000 COP for an 11,000 COP plate) is a gesture that cooks appreciate. It's not mandatory, but it's well seen.

Price Map: What to Expect for 10,000 to 15,000 COP

In August 2026, prices at the eateries of the pasajes of Guayaquil remain surprisingly stable, despite the inflation that has hit the rest of the city. Here is a breakdown of what you can expect based on your budget:

• 10,000 COP: Basic "seco" plate without soup. Includes rice, protein (chicken, beef, or pork), potato or yuca, and simple salad. Juice separate for an additional 1,500 COP. It's the most economical option and the one chosen by messengers and construction workers.
• 12,000 COP: Full corrientazo with starter soup, main dish, and natural juice. The soup is usually vegetable, rib, or mondongo (depending on the day). It's the most popular option and the one that offers the best value for money.
• 15,000 COP: Special plate: bandejo de batalla, fried fish, or more elaborate dishes like "sudado de res con yuca" or "hígado encebollado." Includes soup, juice, and sometimes a homemade dessert (gelatin or dulce de leche). This is the "premium" option of the pasajes.

A note on drinks: in addition to natural juice, almost all eateries offer "agua de panela" or "limonada de coco" for an additional cost of 1,000 COP. The coconut lemonade is a classic of the center and is prepared with crushed ice, coconut milk, and lemon. It's refreshing and perfect for the afternoon heat.

The Future: Gentrification and the Fight to Preserve the Pasajes

I can't write about the pasajes of Guayaquil without mentioning what's happening in the center of Medellín. In the last five years, the area has seen a wave of new businesses: specialty coffee shops, hostels, cocktail bars, and "concept" restaurants that charge 40,000 COP for a dish that costs 12,000 at a cuchito. Gentrification is real, and many of the historic buildings that house these eateries are being bought by investors who want to turn them into more "modern" commercial spaces.

However, there is a silent resistance