Origins
Before Medellín was the capital of innovation, before the skyscrapers of El Poblado and the lights of the Zona Rosa, this city was a mountain town that breathed coffee and mule sweat. It was the 19th and early 20th centuries, and the Aburrá Valley was nothing more than a mandatory passage point between the coffee-growing lands of southwestern Antioquia and the ports of the Magdalena River. The only way to move the harvest was on the backs of beasts. And that's where the arrieros appeared: men and women who, with their mule trains, carried sacks of coffee, fabrics, salt, and tools along trails that are now avenues.
These travelers needed a place to sleep. Hotels as we know them today did not exist. In every town, at every crossroads, arrieros' residences sprang up: houses of wattle and daub and clay tiles, with large patios for the mules, wood-fired stoves to warm the body, and corridors where stories were told. In Medellín, these inns were concentrated in the neighborhoods we now call Santo Domingo Savio, San Javier, and the historic center. They were the heart of an economy that moved the country.
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What few know is that these residences were not simple boarding houses. They had an unwritten code. The arriero would arrive, unload the cargo, feed the mule, and sit down at the table. The residence owner would offer him bandeja paisa, arepa de chócolo, and aguapanela with lemon. Payment was not always in coins; sometimes it was exchanged for a sack of coffee or a pound of panela. It was a system of absolute trust. The traveler left his merchandise in the patio without a lock, and the innkeeper watched over it as if it were his own.
Timeline or historical milestones
1850-1900: The rise of muleteering
Medellín goes from being a hamlet to a commercial center thanks to coffee. The first arrieros' residences appear on what is now Carrera 49 (the old Camino Real) and in the La Candelaria neighborhood. The arrieros brought coffee from Fredonia, Venecia, and Titiribí, and took it to Puerto Berrío. At every stop, an inn.
1900-1930: The golden age
The first roads are built, but the mule remains queen. In Medellín, neighborhoods like San Javier and Santo Domingo fill with these two-story houses, with wooden balconies and huge patios. By 1920, it is estimated there were over 200 active arrieros' residences in the Aburrá Valley. Many offered "lodging with food and stable" for 20 cents a night.
1930-1970: The decline
The Antioquia Railway arrives, followed by paved roads. The truck replaces the mule. The arrieros' residences begin to close or turn into family homes. The memory of these spaces fades amidst concrete and oblivion.
1990-2010: The rediscovery
With the rise of cultural tourism and the search for authentic experiences, some local entrepreneurs begin to restore these old houses. In 2005, the Mayor's Office of Medellín includes several of them in the historic center recovery plan. The first boutique hostels that reinterpret the concept of the arriero's residence are born.
2020-2026: The reinvention
Today, in July 2026, there are at least 15 arrieros' residences converted into tourist accommodations in Medellín. They are not museums; they are living spaces where you can sleep, eat, and learn the history of coffee. Some, like Casa de la Mula in San Javier, offer muleteering workshops on weekends. Others, like El Solar del Arriero in Santo Domingo, have urban gardens that recall the old cultivation patios.
Key figures or events
Don Jesús María Ochoa
One of the most famous arrieros in Antioquia. He was born in 1855 in Santa Rosa de Osos and traveled the route between Medellín and Manizales for 40 years. It is said he never lost a sack of coffee. His story inspired the novel El arriero by Manuel Mejía Vallejo. In his honor, one of the restored residences in the Boston neighborhood bears his name: Posada del Ochoa.
Doña Bertha de la Torre
Owner of one of the oldest residences in San Javier, active from 1910 to 1965. Her house, at Carrera 88 with Calle 45, was a mandatory stop for arrieros coming from Amagá. Doña Bertha was known for preparing a tripe soup that, according to travelers, "could revive the dead." Today, her grandchildren restored the old house and turned it into the hostel Bertha's House, where they still serve that original recipe.
The 1928 fire
A little-known event: in the early morning of March 15, 1928, a fire destroyed seven arrieros' residences in the La Candelaria neighborhood. 12 mules and 3 arrieros died. This event led to the creation of the first safety regulations for lodgings in Medellín, which required large patios and emergency exits. Many of the current residences preserve that open-space architecture precisely because of this tragedy.
Current status
Today, the arrieros' residences are not relics of the past. They are boutique accommodations that attract travelers who want more than just a bed. They want history, flavor, and a real connection with Medellín. In July 2026, these are some of the most representative spaces:
- Posada del Ochoa (Boston Neighborhood, Carrera 45 # 37-12): Hostel with 8 rooms, a central patio with a coffee garden, and a restaurant serving typical dishes. Prices from $120,000 COP per night. Open Monday to Sunday, 7am-10pm.
- Bertha's House (San Javier, Carrera 88 # 45-20): Restored old house with 6 rooms, a wood-fired stove, and muleteering workshops. Prices from $150,000 COP per night. It is recommended to book a week in advance.
- El Solar del Arriero (Santo Domingo Savio, Calle 52 # 21-08): Hostel with 10 rooms, an urban garden, and a viewpoint overlooking the valley. Prices from $90,000 COP per night. They offer a complimentary typical breakfast.
- Casa de la Mula (San Javier, Carrera 90 # 44-30): Specialized in experiences, it has restored stables and guided walking tours along historical paths. Prices from $180,000 COP per night, includes dinner and a coffee workshop.
The arrieros' code is still alive. In these residences, upon arrival, you are greeted with a glass of aguapanela and invited to sit on the corridor. There is no computer check-in; there is a notebook where you write your name. Food is served at a communal table, as before. Payment is still in cash in many cases, although they now accept cards. What hasn't changed is the trust: you can leave your suitcase in the patio while you explore the city and no one touches it.
Fun fact
In 2025, a group of historians from the University of Antioquia discovered that some of these residences had underground tunnels that connected to downtown warehouses. They were used to hide coffee during the Thousand Days' War. Today, at least two hostels (El Solar del Arriero and Posada del Ochoa) have opened these tunnels to the public as part of a night tour. It's an experience you can't miss.
Route map
Using these residences as a base allows you to explore historical coffee routes without leaving Medellín. Here are three recommended routes:
- Urban Coffee Route: From Bertha's House in San Javier, walk 20 minutes to the San Javier Church Park. There you will find a plaque marking the old Camino Real. Follow the marked trail (1.5 km) to the Comuna 13 Viewpoint, where the arrieros rested before descending to the center.
- Mule Route: From Casa de la Mula, take the Metrocable to the Santo Domingo station. Walk 10 minutes to the El Solar del Arriero hostel. The entire route, with stops, takes 2 hours. It is perfect for understanding how the upper neighborhoods connected with the center.
- Trade Route: From Posada del Ochoa in Boston, walk 15 minutes to the Museum of Antioquia. In its archives, there are original maps of the muleteering routes. Then, go down Carrera 49 to Parque Bolívar, where the coffee market used to operate. Total time: 3 hours.
Prices subject to change. It is recommended to verify schedules before visiting. The muleteering workshops at Casa de la Mula cost $50,000 COP per person and are held on Saturdays and Sundays at 10am.
Being a traveler in Medellín today is, in essence, being a modern arriero. You arrive with your load of expectations, looking for a roof that not only protects you but tells you something. The arrieros' residences are that: open doors to a Medellín not seen in tourist guides. A city built on the backs of mules and that, if you know where to look, still smells of coffee, wet earth, and stories waiting to be told.
Ready to live the arrieros' code? Download our interactive map of active arrieros' residences and their historical routes to plan your stay. It includes coordinates, updated prices, and contact information. Scan the QR code at the reception of any affiliated hostel or visit malokal.com/arrieros.
