From the Myth of the 'Capo' to the Entrepreneur: The New Wave of Ex-Combatants in Medellín's Craft Scene
Saying "Medellín" and having a foreigner's first thought be Pablo Escobar is already a tiresome cliché, but the reality is that the city carries that stigma. However, for a few years now, a group of ex-combatants from the now-defunct FARC-EP has been using an unexpected tool to rewrite that narrative: craft beer. It's not a cheap metaphor. It's a real project, with its own name —La Trocha— that was born in 2019 and today fights for its space in the refrigerators of El Poblado, the city's most exclusive neighborhood.
What makes this venture unique is not just the product, but the symbolism. If for decades the image of the "capo" was associated with ostentatious luxury and violence, these guys are changing the script: now the ex-combatant is the one serving the beer, explaining the malting process, and, incidentally, telling how they went from the Sierra Nevada to a copper kettle in a local spot in the Manila neighborhood. In July 2026, this project remains one of the most powerful cases of social reintegration in Colombia, and it's worth getting to know firsthand.
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The Story of a Brewery Run by Former Armed Group Members in El Poblado: How Did They Get to the Most Exclusive Neighborhood?
La Trocha didn't start in El Poblado. It was born in reincorporation spaces in Antioquia and Meta, where a group of signatories of the 2016 Peace Agreement decided that craft beer could be their new "trade." With support from the UN Verification Mission, the Agency for Reincorporation and Normalization (ARN), and some NGOs, they set up a microbrewery. The first production was modest, but it had an unbeatable hook: in 2021, none other than former President Juan Manuel Santos and Rodrigo Londoño (Timochenko) toasted with La Trocha to celebrate the five-year anniversary of the Agreement.
But the leap to El Poblado was another story. Getting into the neighborhood that concentrates the most expensive nightlife in Medellín was not easy. Renting a space in the Provenza or Manila area can cost between 4 and 8 million Colombian pesos monthly. La Trocha achieved it through alliances with bars and restaurants that decided to bet on the project, and eventually opened a direct sales point in a shared space in the Manila neighborhood, near Calle 10. There, among tourists seeking the "Medellín experience" and locals wanting to support something different, the ex-combatants personally attend to customers, tell their story, and serve the beers.
What Does Being in El Poblado Mean to Them?
For many, it's a symbolic victory. "Before we were in the mountains, now we are in the city's 'coolest' neighborhood," one of the brewmasters told me during a visit. The contrast is not lost on anyone: while at the next table they talk about investments and trips to Miami, they talk about disarmament processes, how they learned to make beer through SENA courses, and what it means to build a brand from scratch. The neighborhood didn't welcome them with open arms at first —there was resistance from some residents— but the quality of the product and the transparency of the proposal have been gaining ground.
The Process of Artisanal Reinvention: From the Sierra to the Malt Kettle, the Symbolism of Beer Names
La Trocha has three fixed varieties and one rotating one. Each has a name that is no coincidence:
- Reconciliación IPA (Indian Pale Ale): It's the most popular. Bitter, full-bodied, with a citrusy aroma reminiscent of hops from southern Colombia. The name is a statement of principles: "It's not about forgetting, but about learning to drink beer together," they say.
- La Roja: An Irish Red Ale, copper-colored with a caramel flavor. It was the first beer they launched, in 2019, and its name refers to the flag of the now-defunct FARC, but resignified: it's no longer a symbol of war, but of the "red" passion for the brewing craft.
- Transición Golden Ale: Light, easy to drink, designed for those who aren't fans of bitterness. The name speaks to the personal process of each project member.
- Special editions: They have released beers with names like "Acuerdo Stout" (a stout with notes of coffee from the Sierra Nevada) and "Desarme APA," which are only produced on key dates like November 24th (anniversary of the Agreement).
The Production Process
Everything is done at a plant located in eastern Antioquia, where 10 ex-combatants work full-time. They use imported malts and national hops, and filter the water with activated carbon to ensure consistency. The process is artisanal, with 500-liter batches per run. They designed the labels themselves, which have a minimalist style with illustrations of mountains and bridle paths —a direct reference to the "trocha" as an escape route and also as a path towards legality.
The most interesting thing is that the names aren't just marketing. In guided tastings —which can be scheduled with them— the brewmasters explain why they chose each name. For example, the "Reconciliación IPA" was created after a workshop with conflict victims where they shared stories and, at the end, toasted together. The beer became the vehicle for a dialogue that would otherwise have been impossible.
The Authenticity Dilemma: Is the Beer a 'Facade' or a True Tool for Peace?
It's not all sunshine and roses. When a project like La Trocha gains visibility, it also attracts criticism. Some sectors in Medellín —especially on social media— have pointed out that ex-combatant craft beer is a "facade" to whitewash the guerrilla's image. Others, more pragmatic, say it's a business like any other and that the "peace" label is just a commercial hook for tourists.
What Customers Say
There's a bit of everything, like everywhere. During an afternoon at the Manila sales point, I spoke with several customers:
- Carlos, 34, systems engineer: "I came because a friend told me the IPA was good. I tried it and yes, it's one of the best I've had in Medellín. The story is a plus, but if the beer were bad, I wouldn't come back."
- Ana, 28, Spanish tourist: "I find it incredible that they are here, in El Poblado, competing with traditional brands. I bought a six-pack to take to Madrid. It's a story worth telling."
- Don Héctor, 62, El Poblado resident: "At first I didn't like the idea. I lived through the conflict up close. But my son brought me to try La Roja and I spoke with the guy who makes it. He's a serious, hardworking man. The beer is good, and if this helps them never pick up a rifle again, then welcome."
The Founders' Response
Jorge, one of the project leaders, is clear about it: "We're not asking for forgiveness, we're asking for an opportunity. The beer is not a facade, it's our livelihood. If it were a facade, we wouldn't be here every day, sweating buckets to make the business work. Peace isn't signed on paper, it's built by selling beer in El Poblado."
And they are right about one thing: the business is real. La Trocha already distributes in more than 15 bars and restaurants in Medellín, in addition to having a presence in Bogotá and Cali. They have participated in gastronomic fairs like the Feria de las Flores and the Medellín Craft Beer Festival. In 2025, they launched a crowdfunding campaign to expand the production plant, and the goal was met in three weeks. The numbers don't lie: people are buying, and not just for the story.
Comparison with Other Reintegration Projects in Medellín
La Trocha is not the only peace venture in the city. There are several reintegration projects that have managed to position themselves, but beer has a different cultural impact. Let's see:
Coffee: The Most Traveled Path
Ex-combatant coffee is perhaps the most well-known. Brands like Café de la Paz or Café Montebello (produced by signatories of the agreement in eastern Antioquia) have managed to export to Europe and the United States. Coffee has an advantage: it's a product associated with Colombian tradition, the countryside, the "pure." But it also has a disadvantage: it's consumed at home, in the office, in the morning. It's an intimate product, not
Event Details (Lineup, Schedule, Dates)
Parque de los Deseos
This open-air space is known as a cultural meeting point in Medellín. During the event, you can enjoy not only craft beers but also live music and outdoor film screenings. Insider Tip: Arrive early to secure a good spot and don't miss the talks on the history of local beer, which are usually quite interesting.
La 70
One of the city's most iconic avenues, La 70 is famous for its nightlife and #us bars. Although it's not an official part of the event, many attendees head here after enjoying the fair. Insider Tip: Try an "Ajiaco" at one of the nearby restaurants; it's the perfect dish to accompany a good beer.
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Prices and How to Get Tickets
La Cervecería de Medellín
Offers a wide variety of craft beers made by ex-combatants. Prices range between $10,000 and $15,000 COP per beer.
Insider Tip: Ask for the "Cerveza de la Casa," which often has an exclusive flavor you won't find elsewhere.
Cervecería 3 Cordilleras
This is one of the benchmarks for craft beer in Medellín. Here, prices range from $8,000 COP to $20,000 COP, depending on the selection.
Insider Tip: Don't miss the opportunity to take a brewery tour, where you can learn about the brewing process and taste fresh beers straight from the source.
El Cielo Cervecero
A place that has gained popularity for its cozy atmosphere and varied beer menu. Prices here are accessible, between $7,000 and $18,000 COP.
Insider Tip: They often have live music events, so check their calendar to enjoy a more complete experience.
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Tips for Attendees
La Cerveza Artesanal de El Frente
Insider Tip: This place not only offers a variety of craft beers produced by ex-combatants but also organizes events where you can hear their stories. Ask about story nights, where the founders share anecdotes from their lives before and after the war. A unique experience that adds depth to every sip.
Casa de la Cerveza
Insider Tip: Visit this bar to try beers from different microbreweries in Medellín, including some from ex-combatants. They often have promotions on trivia nights, which are perfect for meeting other beer lovers. Don't forget to order a "tasting flight" to explore the flavors.
Ruta de la Cerveza
Insider Tip: If you're interested in beer culture, consider joining this guided tour. They will not only take you to several breweries but also tell you about the history of beer in Medellín and its relationship with the local community. Be sure to book in advance, as groups are limited.
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## Boletería, Precios y Dónde Comprar La venta de boletas para el **7mo Torneo Cervecero de las Flores** (1 de agosto de 2026, Barrio Manila, Medellín) ya está disponible a través de **Ticketmaster**, único operador autorizado. La entrada general tiene un costo de **$95,000 COP** e incluye: vaso catador oficial, 16 catas de cerveza artesanal (una por cada uno de los 16 stands participantes) y el formato de votación para elegir a tu cervecero favorito. Se permite un máximo de 4 boletas por transacción. Para el **Festival Gastronómico y de Cervezas Artesanales** en La Central (1–9 de agosto de 2026), los precios y puntos de venta aún no han sido publicados oficialmente (corte al 8 de julio); se recomienda consultar **lacentral.com.co** y **visitarmedellin.com** para actualizaciones. El **Oktoberfest Artesanal** (26 de septiembre de 2026, Parque Norte) vende sus boletas a través de **La Tiquetera**; los precios no han sido revelados, pero se sugiere estar atento a la plataforma para la preventa. ## Programación Oficial y Horarios por Tarimas - **7mo Torneo Cervecero de las Flores**: sábado 1 de agosto de 2026, apertura de puertas a las 2:00 p.m. (programación sujeta a cambios). El evento se desarrolla en 6 ambientes con 16 stands cerveceros; los asistentes recorren cada stand para catar y votar. No hay tarimas múltiples, es un circuito de degustación. - **Festival Gastronómico y de Cervezas Artesanales (La Central)**: del 1 al 9 de agosto de 2026, durante toda la Feria de las Flores. Horarios diarios no publicados aún; se espera que sea de mediodía a noche. La programación oficial se publicará en los canales del centro comercial. - **Oktoberfest Artesanal**: sábado 26 de septiembre de 2026, desde las 12:00 p.m. en Parque Norte. Incluye agenda musical con artistas nacionales e internacionales, zonas de entretenimiento y gastronomía local. Los horarios por artista se anunciarán próximamente. ## Cómo Llegar y Consejos de Seguridad - **Al 7mo Torneo Cervecero (Manila, El Poblado)**: ubicado en Calle 11a # 43d 101. Se recomienda usar el Metro (estación Poblado) y caminar o tomar un taxi/uber hasta el barrio Manila. Evita llevar objetos de valor visibles y usa el sistema de transporte público oficial. - **Al Festival en La Central (Buenos Aires)**: dirección Calle 49 # 21-38. Acceso práctico: tomar el Tranvía desde la estación Industriales (conexión con la Línea A del Metro) o rutas de bus. El tranvía evita gran parte del tráfico de agosto. Si vienes de El Poblado o Laureles, el trayecto toma 20–30 minutos en vehículo; prefiere el tranvía para evitar congestiones. - **Al Oktoberfest (Parque Norte)**: Cra. 53 #76-115. Usa el Metro (estación Universidad) y camina 5 minutos. El parque cuenta con zonas de seguridad y personal de apoyo. - **Recomendaciones generales**: compra boletas solo en canales oficiales (Ticketmaster, La Tiquetera, lacentral.com.co). Llega temprano para evitar filas. Mantén tus pertenencias seguras, no aceptes bebidas de desconocidos y consume con moderación. Usa transporte oficial o aplicaciones de movilidad reconocidas. Consulta la programación actualizada en las fuentes oficiales antes de asistir.