Ascent to Cerro de las Tres Cruces: the spiritual and fitness route few tourists know about

The hill no one mentions: history and meaning of the three crosses

While all tourists fight over the cable car to Pueblito Paisa or wake up early to queue for the Metrocable to Parque Arví, locals living west of Medellín have their own Sunday ritual: climbing Cerro de las Tres Cruces. It's not the tallest hill in the city, nor the most famous, but it's the one with the most spiritual history and the one that best trains your legs if you're looking for an authentic experience, far from the selfie-stick crowds.

The history of this hill, located in the corregimiento of San Cristóbal, in the western zone of Medellín, dates back to 1940. The grandparents of the El Estadio neighborhood and comuna 13 tell that it was a priest named Jesús María Valle who championed the idea of placing three crosses at the summit, imitating the Calvary of Jerusalem. The intention was to create a pilgrimage site during Holy Week, where the faithful could do a Stations of the Cross without having to travel to the Holy Land. The original crosses were made of wood, but over time and due to inclement weather, they were replaced by concrete structures that today stand over 10 meters tall.

What few know is that those three crosses represent the three figures of the crucifixion: Jesus in the center and the two thieves on either side. But the popular tradition of Medellín gave them their own meaning: locals say each cross represents a "stone" you must carry to leave behind: the past, the present, and the future. Climbing the hill, then, is not just exercise: it's an act of letting go. In August 2026, the hike remains the best free plan in the city for those who want to see the sunrise from above without spending a penny.

The hill has an approximate elevation of 1,900 meters above sea level, and although it's not a technical mountain, the slope is treacherous. The base is at about 1,600 meters, so the elevation gain is around 300 meters. That means it's not just any Sunday walk: it's a real challenge, especially if you come from a city at sea level. But the reward is brutal: from the summit you see the entire city, from the Valle de Aburrá to the neighborhoods that climb up the eastern slopes, and if the day is clear, you can even see the José María Córdova airport in Rionegro.

The 'express' route vs. the 'pilgrim' route: two ascents, two experiences

Not everyone climbs Cerro de las Tres Cruces the same way. In fact, there are two main routes, and choosing between one or the other completely changes the experience. If you're in a hurry, short on time, or simply want to reach the summit before the midday heat, the express route is your option. But if you're looking to connect with history and the landscape, the pilgrim route will give you more to talk about.

The express route: straight and no detours

This route starts in the El Pesebre neighborhood, in comuna 13, specifically at the top of calle 44B. From there, a steep dirt path climbs in zigzags to the summit. It's the shortest route, taking between 45 minutes and 1 hour, depending on your physical condition. The problem is that the path is straight, without shade, and with a constant incline that doesn't let you catch your breath. There are no benches, no big trees, just dirt, rocks, and the sun beating down on your back.

Locals who train on the hill use this route for repetition sets: they go up fast, jog down, and repeat. It's a brutal strength and cardiovascular endurance workout. If you're going to do the express route, I recommend leaving before 6 a.m., because between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. the sun is relentless. Bring water, no exceptions, because there are no shops or hydration points along the way.

The pilgrim route: the one the faithful walked

The traditional route, the one pilgrims have used since 1940, starts in the Veinte de Julio neighborhood, in the upper part of comuna 13, near the police station in the area. This path is longer, about 2.5 kilometers, and takes between 1 hour and 1 hour and a half. But unlike the express route, this one has sections with vegetation, some trees that provide shade, and several stations with small crosses marking the Stations of the Cross. It's a more winding path, with curves that gradually open up views of the city.

The pilgrim route is the one I recommend if you're coming for the first time or if you want to do the hike at a leisurely pace, enjoying the scenery and taking photos. That said, be prepared to share the path with the faithful who climb to pray the rosary on Sundays, and with some stray dogs that have become part of the landscape. The dogs aren't aggressive, but if you don't like animals, better stick to the express route.

A curious fact: during Holy Week, the pilgrim route fills with people doing the full Stations of the Cross, with stops at each station. It's the only time of year when the hill truly feels like a place of mass pilgrimage. The rest of the year, silence and solitude are the protagonists.

Sunrise from the summit: the locals' ritual and how to join

If there's a magical moment on Cerro de las Tres Cruces, it's sunrise. Locals living in the surrounding neighborhoods have the habit of climbing between 4:30 and 5:00 a.m. to watch the sun come up behind the eastern mountain range. It's not a tourist plan; it's a ritual. Some go up with thermoses of coffee, others with fruit, and some with their dogs. The summit becomes a natural viewpoint where people sit on the rocks, chat quietly, and wait for the exact moment when the sun first lights up the tower of the Edificio Coltejer and then spreads across the entire valley.

Joining this ritual is easy. You don't need to book anything or pay an entrance fee. You just have to wake up early. That said, I warn you: the climb in the dark can be intimidating if you don't know the path. The routes aren't lit, so you'll need a headlamp or your phone's flashlight. And although the area is relatively safe in the morning, it's always better to go accompanied or in a group. On weekends, there are hiking groups that organize sunrise hikes from the San Javier Metro station, and anyone can join for free.

The best spot to see the sunrise isn't the summit itself, but a small natural viewpoint about 200 meters before reaching the crosses, on the southern side of the hill. From there, you can see the Estadio Atanasio Girardot and the Unidad Deportiva de Belén, and the sun rises right behind the mountain range, creating a spectacle of orange and pink colors that rivals the sunsets of Guatapé. If you bring a camera, this is the spot.

Another locals' ritual: upon reaching the summit, many touch the crosses and say a small prayer or simply stand in silence for a couple of minutes. It doesn't matter if you're religious or not, the atmosphere invites introspection. There's one cross with a commemorative plaque from 1980, when the structures were restored, and it's tradition to take a photo touching it.

Altitude training: why local athletes use it as a free gym

Cerro de las Tres Cruces isn't just a place of pilgrimage. In recent years, it has become the favorite outdoor gym for athletes in Medellín. And it's no coincidence: the constant slope, the altitude, and the fact that it costs nothing make it perfect for training. If you go on a Tuesday or Thursday morning, you'll run into groups of cyclists carrying their bikes on their shoulders, trail runners doing speed intervals, and even boxers going up and down with weighted vests.

Why do athletes use it? Because the 300-meter elevation gain over a 2-kilometer distance is a perfect stimulus to improve cardiovascular capacity and leg strength. Unlike a treadmill or a stationary bike, the hill forces you to stabilize your core and work your glutes and quads naturally. Plus, the altitude of 1,900 meters, while not extreme, is enough for the body to adapt and increase red blood cell production, which improves performance when you go down to run at sea level.

If you want to join the hill's fitness culture, there are some unwritten rules you should know:

• Respect the pace of those going up fast: on the express route, people go at their own pace. Don't stop in the middle of the path to take photos without checking if someone's coming behind you.
• Say hello: in Medellín, it's normal to greet people you pass on the mountain. A "good morning" or a nod is enough. Don't be the tourist who walks by without greeting; it feels weird.
• Bring your own water: there are no water fountains on the hill. Local athletes usually carry 1.5-liter bottles, and some even bring electrolyte powder.
• Don't use the hill as a public bathroom: yes, it's nature, but there are areas the community takes care of. If you need to go, head down to the neighborhood or find a secluded spot, but don't leave trash or toilet paper on the trail.

A little-known fact: on weekends, at the summit, an informal "market" forms where some local entrepreneurs from the neighborhood sell coconut water, fresh orange juice, and even arepas with cheese. It's not an official market, but if you arrive early, you'll likely find doña Marta, a woman from the El Pesebre neighborhood who climbs every Saturday with a portable cooler full of cold drinks. It's the best reward after the effort.

Practical info: time, hydration, footwear, and how to avoid the hottest hours

Let's get to the important stuff: how to do this hike without dying in the attempt. Cerro de las Tres Cruces isn't the Himalayas, but it's also not a stroll through Parque de los Pies Descalzos. You need preparation and respect for the mountain.

Ascent and descent time

The total time for the