Pie de la Popa: hidden history behind the convent

The hill that watches over Cartagena: the birth of Pie de la Popa

If you arrive in Cartagena by land, from the Transport Terminal or via the Perimetral Road, the first thing you see is not the sea. It's a green mass about 150 meters high crowned by a white convent and a flag that waves as if greeting everyone who enters. That is the Cerro de la Popa, and at its foot, literally "at the foot" of it, lies the neighborhood that bears that name: Pie de la Popa. But beware, this is not just another neighborhood of the old town. There are no stone walls here, but there is a history that runs through its steep streets, among republican houses with tiled roofs and patios where clothes are still hung out to dry under the Caribbean sun.

The history of this neighborhood is the history of exclusion and resistance. While the walled city was the center of Spanish power, the enslaved, the freedmen, and the artisans who built the fortifications sought refuge on the hillside. But there's a detail few tell: the name "Popa" doesn't come from a boat. It comes from the Spanish word popa (stern), but applied to geography. The Spanish, sailors after all, saw that the silhouette of the hill resembled the stern of a ship. That simple, but that powerful: all of Cartagena is an anchored ship, and the hill is its rudder toward the sky.

Today, in August 2026, Pie de la Popa remains a neighborhood of contrasts. It's popular, it's historic, it's bustling. It's home to the famous Cueva de los Pijaos, the church of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, and the convent that gives the hill its identity. But it's also a neighborhood where street life breathes, where the smell of fried food mixes with the incense of processions. Let's walk it calmly, because here every street has a story.

The founding of the neighborhood: from slum to community

To understand Pie de la Popa, you have to go back to the 17th century. The walled city was packed, and those without lineage or money were left outside. The hillsides were communal lands, used for gardens and grazing cattle. The first inhabitants of the place were runaway enslaved people fleeing the haciendas, as well as indigenous people coming from nearby villages like Turbaco. There were no laid-out streets or official plans. There were dirt paths that went up to the convent, and those paths became the neighborhood's first roads.

The Convento de la Popa was the magnet. Founded in 1606 by the Augustinian Recollects, it was built on the ruins of an indigenous sanctuary dedicated to a fertility goddess. The friars didn't just bring the cross; they also brought water: they built cisterns and channeled springs. That water flowed down the hillside, and families settled around those streams. The neighborhood grew without permission, but out of necessity. By the 18th century, a consolidated slum existed with about 200 houses of wattle and daub and palm.

The 19th century brought changes. With independence, the convent's lands passed to the State and then to private owners. The neighborhood became denser. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Cartagena elite, fleeing the heat and epidemics of the center, began building summer houses on the lower part of the hill, where the air was cooler. Those houses are what we now call republican houses, and many are still standing, although some are quite deteriorated. They are the neighborhood's architectural treasure.

La Llorona of Pie de la Popa: the legend no one dares to deny

All the old neighborhoods of Cartagena have their ghost, but the one in Pie de la Popa is the most famous. It's said that at midnight, near the old path to the convent, a heart-wrenching wail is heard. It's La Llorona, a woman who, according to the local version, lost her son in a fire that consumed her house in the early 20th century. Another version says she was an enslaved mother whose child was taken away to be sold. What is certain is that the oldest residents swear they've seen her: a white silhouette that comes down the hill crying and vanishes at the corner of the church of la Candelaria.

It's not the only legend. There's also the Headless Priest, an Augustinian friar who, according to the story, was beheaded by pirates in the 17th century and still roams the convent's hallways on full moon nights. The convent guides sometimes mention it with a smile, but the neighborhood's night watchmen don't laugh as much. They say they've heard footsteps on the rooftops when no one is there.

What to do in Pie de la Popa: beyond the convent

Most tourists go up to the convent, take a photo with the hill in the background, and come down. Big mistake. Pie de la Popa has its own life, and it's worth dedicating half a day to it. Here's a route locals use when we take friends to see the real neighborhood.

The Convento de la Popa: the ultimate viewpoint

It's the must-see spot. You get there by walking from the neighborhood up a steep street called Vía al Convento, or by private car. The entrance fee is around $15,000 COP for adults (reference price as of August 2026, subject to change). Inside, there's a colonial cloister with Seville tiles, a chapel with a wooden Christ dating from the 17th century, and a museum with ex-votos and religious objects. But the best part is the rooftop: from there you see the entire city, the bay, Bocagrande, and the open sea. It is, without a doubt, the best panoramic view of Cartagena.

Local tip: go in the morning, before 10am, when the sun isn't too harsh and there are fewer people. It's closed on Mondays for maintenance, so plan your visit Tuesday through Sunday, between 8am and 5pm. It's recommended to check hours before visiting, as they sometimes change during high season.

The Church of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria

In the lower part of the neighborhood, on Avenida del Pedregal, is this church, the religious heart of the community. It was built in the late 19th century, and its facade is neoclassical, with two towers visible from afar. Every February 2nd, the festival of la Candelaria turns the neighborhood into a festive chaos: procession, gaita music, fried food, and dancing until dawn. If you're in Cartagena on that date, don't miss it. It's a more authentic experience than any organized tour.

La Cueva de los Pijaos

Very close to the church, on Calle 31, there's a natural cave that served as a hideout for runaway enslaved people during the colonial era. The name refers to the indigenous Pijaos, who were feared by the Spanish. Today, the cave is inside a private house, and the owners sometimes allow entry if you ask nicely. It's not an official attraction, but if you knock on the door and explain you're interested in history, they'll likely let you in. Bring a flashlight, because inside it's dark and humid. It's a piece of living history that doesn't appear in tourist guides.

Murals and urban art

In recent years, the neighborhood has filled with murals that tell its story. There's a huge one in Plaza de la Trinidad (not to be confused with the one in Getsemaní) depicting La Llorona, and another on Calle del Carnero showing the cimarrones coming down the hill. These murals were made by local collectives like La Heroica Colectiva and Fundación Casa Taller. If you like urban art, walk leisurely through the streets that go up to the convent, and you'll see over 20 murals scattered around.

For those interested in detail, there's a map of the neighborhood's historical murals that can be downloaded online, created by the Junta de Acción Comunal of Pie de la Popa. It's free and worth having on hand before you walk.

Where to eat and drink in Pie de la Popa

The neighborhood's culinary offering isn't about fine dining like Bocagrande, but it has something better: real food, the kind made in homes and sold on street corners. Here, there are no English menus or inflated tourist prices. There's flavor.

Restaurante El Buen Sabor

If you're looking for a set lunch, this place at Carrera 17 with Calle 32 is the locals' favorite. They offer a daily menu with soup, main course, and juice for $12,000 COP. On Thursdays, there's mote de queso, and on Sundays, fish sancocho. The owner, Don Rafael, is a character: he's been in the neighborhood for 40 years and can tell you stories from the time when there was no aqueduct and water was collected in cisterns. Open Monday to Sunday, from 11am to 3pm.

Bars and nightlife

Pie de la Popa isn't a party zone, but there are some neighborhood bars where you can have a cold beer and listen to vallenato or champeta. The most well-known is El Rincón de la Popa, on Calle 33, which has a terrace with a view of the hill. On Friday nights, they have live music, usually