The Drum That Beats on the Corners of Getsemaní
If you walk through Getsemaní on a Saturday afternoon, it's not unusual for the sound of a drum to stop you in your tracks. It's not background music or a show put on for tourists. It's the dry thud of a llamador mixed with the rumble of a tambora coming from an open courtyard or some random corner. Here, in this neighborhood that was the cradle of independence fighters and a refuge for runaway slaves, the drum is not a relic: it's the pulse of daily life.
In May 2026, when the sun of Cartagena beats down and tourists fill the cobblestone streets, there is a group of musicians keeping the tradition of the palenqueros alive. You won't find them in tour brochures or on the stages of five-star hotels. They play on the street, in the bars of Plaza de la Trinidad, in their own home patios. They are the ones who truly guard the drum.
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Here I present five of them. Real people, with nicknames, stories, and a commitment to music that goes beyond any show.
Who Are the Palenqueros of Getsemaní?
First, let's clarify something: not everyone who plays a drum in Cartagena is a palenquero. The palenqueros are direct descendants of the slaves who escaped from the Spanish and founded the Palenques, free communities in the Colombian Caribbean. The most famous is San Basilio de Palenque, declared by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. But many of those palenqueros migrated to Getsemaní decades ago, and put down roots here.
They don't just play: they transmit. They teach the neighborhood children, make their own drums with goatskin and cedar wood, and keep alive rhythms like bullerengue, cumbia, and mapalé. If you sit down to listen to them one afternoon, you'll realize that each beat has a meaning. It's not noise: it's memory.
The 5 Palenqueros Who Guard the Drum
1. Juancho "El Chacho"
Age: 63 years old
Nickname: El Chacho
Where he plays: Calle del Pozo, in front of Hostal Casa de la Trinidad, Saturdays from 6pm until the body gives out.
Juancho is the most veteran of the group. He learned to play the tambora at age 7 in San Basilio de Palenque, watching his grandfather at the patron saint festivals. He arrived in Getsemaní in the 80s and has been the anchor of the tradition ever since. His tambora is huge, almost a meter in diameter, and when he hits it, the ground seems to vibrate. He doesn't use drumsticks: he plays with his bare hands, and his palms have become calloused from so much beating.
If you want to hear pure bullerengue, look for Juancho on Saturdays. He sits on a plastic chair, has a shot of aguardiente, and starts singing verses about lost loves and the land. He doesn't accept money for playing, but if you buy a handmade CD (he sells them for 10,000 COP), he gives you a smile and tells you the story behind each song.
Fun fact: Juancho claims his tambora is over 40 years old. He inherited it from his uncle, who made it from wood from a tree that grew in his backyard in Palenque. "That tree no longer exists," he says, "but the drum keeps sounding."
2. María "La Negra"
Age: 45 years old
Nickname: La Negra
Where she plays: Plaza de la Trinidad, Sundays at noon, and at Bar La Casa de la Cerveza on Friday nights.
María is the only woman in the group, and that alone makes her special. In an environment where drums are usually a man's thing, she arrived 20 years ago and earned respect through talent. She plays the llamador, the smallest drum but the one that sets the base rhythm. Her technique is precise: she never misses a beat, and her singing is powerful, with a voice that can be heard across the entire square.
María is also the one who connects most with tourists. She explains the rhythms, teaches them the first beats, and lends them her drums to try. But careful: she doesn't allow recording without asking permission. "If you want to record, ask first," she says. "This isn't a zoo."
Fun fact: María learned to play in secret. At home, her father didn't want a woman playing the drum. She would sneak off to a corner and practice with an oil can. Today, her father is her number one fan.
3. Pedro "Peyo"
Age: 38 years old
Nickname: Peyo
Where he plays: Calle de la Sierpe, in the patio of his house (the pink house with the green door), Thursdays at 7pm. He also plays at Bar Donde Fidel on Wednesdays.
Peyo is the youngest of the group and the most innovative. He plays the alegre, the drum that carries the melody and improvisations. His style is fast, almost frenetic, and he mixes traditional rhythms with touches of jazz and funk. But don't be mistaken: his foundation is pure palenque. Peyo grew up listening to his uncle, who was a renowned gaitero, and since age 12, he hasn't put down the drumsticks.
What's interesting about Peyo is that he also makes drums. In his home patio, he has a workshop where he cures hides, carves wood, and assembles instruments that he later sells to local musicians. If you want an authentic drum, he can make one for you on commission. Prices range from 150,000 COP for a llamador to 500,000 COP for a complete tambora.
Fun fact: Peyo says goatskin is the best for drums because it's flexible and resistant. But for mapalé drums, he prefers deerskin because it gives a sharper sound.
4. Antonio "Toño"
Age: 55 years old
Nickname: Toño
Where he plays: Calle de la Media Luna, on the corner of Hostal El Viajero, Fridays and Saturdays from 8pm to 1am.
Toño is the life of the party. He not only plays the alegre, but also sings and dances at the same time. He's a show in himself. His specialty is mapalé, a fast and sensual rhythm that comes from the slaves who worked on the plantations. When Toño starts playing, people can't stay still. Even the shyest tourists end up moving their hips.
Toño is known throughout Getsemaní. Bar owners hire him to liven up the nights, but he always prefers to play on the street. "The money is fine," he says, "but the street is where music lives." He always carries a bottle of rum and a vueltiao hat, and he doesn't hesitate to invite anyone to dance.
Fun fact: Toño has an unofficial record: he once played mapalé for 6 hours straight without stopping, only pausing to drink water. "That night, I couldn't feel my arms the next day," he laughs.
5. José "Chepe"
Age: 70 years old
Nickname: Chepe
Where he plays: Calle de la Cruz, at Parque del Centenario, Mondays and Wednesdays at 4pm. Also at Iglesia de la Trinidad on Sundays after mass.
Chepe is the oldest and wisest. He plays the tambora like no one else, but he is also the historian of the group. If you ask him, he can tell you how bullerengue originated in the times of slavery, or why mapalé is danced with such pronounced hip movements. Chepe is an open book, and listening to him is a masterclass in Afro-Colombian culture.
Chepe can no longer play as loudly as before, but his technique is impeccable. Every beat has a purpose. He says the drum is not played with the hands, but with the heart. And when he sings, his raspy voice conveys a sadness and joy that reaches your soul. He is the most respected in the neighborhood.
Fun fact: Chepe was one of the founders of the first drum school in Getsemaní, back in 1995. The school operated in a community hall and taught neighborhood children for free. Today, many of those children are professional musicians.
The Instruments: Tambora, Llamador, and Alegre
To understand the music of these palenqueros, you need to know the three basic drums:
- Tambora: The largest. It is played with hands or drumsticks. It provides the base rhythm, the deep pulse. It is the heart of the ensemble.
- Llamador: The smallest. It marks the beat and "calls" the other drums to enter. It keeps the time.
- Alegre: The medium-sized one. It carries the melody and improvisations. It is the one that does the solos and rhythmic embellishments.
Besides the drums, they sometimes use maracas (made from totumo) and guacharacas (a grooved stick rubbed with another). But the soul of the sound is the drums. And each one has a name and a character.
Where to Find Them Without Paying for a Tour
The best thing about these musicians is that you don't need a tour or a reservation. Here are the informal schedules to find them:
- Juancho "El Chacho": Saturdays, 6pm on Calle del Pozo (in front of Hostal Casa de la Trinidad).
- María "La Negra": Sundays, 12pm at Plaza de la Trinidad. Fridays, 9pm at Bar La Casa de la Cerveza.
- Pedro "Peyo": Thursdays, 7pm on Calle de la Sierpe (pink house with green door). Wednesdays, 8pm at Bar Donde Fidel.
- Antonio "Toño": Fridays and Saturdays, 8pm on Calle de la Media Luna (corner of Hostal El Viajero).
- José "Chepe": Mondays and Wednesdays, 4pm at Parque del Centenario. Sundays, after mass at Iglesia de la Trinidad.
Important: these schedules are approximate. Sometimes it rains, sometimes they are traveling, or they just don't feel like it. The best thing is to ask around the neighborhood. Any local can tell you where "the drum group" is that day.
How to Support Local Musicians
These palenqueros don't live off music. Most have other jobs: Juancho is a bricklayer, María sells arepas, Peyo makes furniture. Music is their passion, but also their way of keeping the tradition alive. If you want to support them, here are some tips:
- Buy handmade CDs: Almost all of them sell records recorded in home studios. They cost between 10,000 and 20,000 COP. It's the best way to take the music home and for them to receive the money directly.
- Don't record without permission: Ask before taking out your phone. They don't like being recorded as if they were an attraction. If they say yes, you can do it, but always respect their space.
- Leave a tip: If you enjoy their music, leave them something. It's not mandatory, but they appreciate it. Around 5,000 or 10,000 COP is fine.
- Share their music: If you have social media, tag them or mention the neighborhood. It helps other travelers get to know them.
Difference Between Bullerengue, Cumbia, and Mapalé
If you're not from the coast, these rhythms might sound the same. But they aren't. Here's a simple explanation:
- Bullerengue: It's the slowest and most heartfelt. It comes from the palenques, from the women who sang while grinding corn. The rhythm is cadenced, with a deep tambora beat and a voice that both cries and celebrates. It's music of resistance.
- Cumbia: It's the most well-known. It's a mix of African drums, indigenous flutes, and maracas. The rhythm is cheerful, but not as fast as mapalé. It's danced in pairs, with soft steps and hip movements. It's the music of popular festivals.
- Mapalé: It's the fastest and most frenetic. It comes from the slaves who worked in fishing and agriculture. The rhythm is syncopated, with dry, fast beats. It's danced with very pronounced hip and arm movements. It's pure energy.
If you want to hear the difference, look for Juancho for bullerengue, Toño for mapalé, and any group at Plaza de la Trinidad for cumbia.
Local Tips for Enjoying the Experience
- Arrive early: The musicians start playing when the sun goes down, around 4pm. It's cooler and less crowded.
- Bring cash: CDs and tips are paid in cash. Don't expect them to have a card machine.
- Don't be afraid to dance: They invite everyone. If you don't know how, they'll teach you. The worst thing you can do is stand still watching.
- Ask about the stories: Chepe loves to tell how each rhythm originated. Don't be shy to ask.
- Respect the space: They are musicians, not tourist attractions. Treat them like any artist.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do the Musicians Charge to Play on the Street?
They don't charge a fixed fee. They play because they like it and because it's part of their identity. But if you enjoy their music, it's proper to leave a tip or buy a CD. They live off it, even if they don't ask.
Can I Join Them to Play?
It depends. If you know how to play the drum, they'll probably invite you to sit in. But if you have no experience, it's best to ask first. María, for example, sometimes lends her drums for tourists to try, but under her supervision. Don't just grab an instrument without permission.
Is There Any Day They Don't Play?
Yes. Mondays and Tuesdays are quiet days in Getsemaní. Many musicians rest or have other jobs. The best days are Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. But even on those days, they might not be there if the weather is bad or if they are traveling.
Where Can I Buy an Authentic Drum?
Pedro "Peyo" makes drums on commission. His workshop is on Calle de la Sierpe. There is also a store called Artesanías de la Costa on Calle de la Media Luna, but prices are higher and quality varies. The best thing is to talk directly to Peyo.
Download the Spotify Playlist
So you can take a piece of Getsemaní wherever you go, I put together a Spotify playlist with songs from these 5 palenqueros. It includes bullerengue, cumbia, and mapalé recorded live on the streets of the neighborhood. Click the link to download it and listen while you explore Cartagena.
And if you ever return to Cartagena, stop by Getsemaní. The drum will always be waiting for you.
Historical or Contextual Introduction
The sound of the drum in Getsemaní is not just music; it's an echo of the history and Afro-Colombian culture that has been preserved over the years. This neighborhood of Cartagena, once a space of resistance and freedom for the Afro-descendant community, has become an epicenter of palenquera culture. The tradition of the drum, which resonates on every corner, is a legacy passed down from generation to generation, reflecting the identity and struggle of its people.
The palenqueros, custodians of this musical heritage, not only play to entertain but also tell stories of resistance and celebration. Each drumbeat is charged with meaning, evoking African roots and the history of slavery in Colombia. Music is a means of expression that unites the community, and each performance is a party where everyone participates.
Furthermore, the drum plays a fundamental role in festivities and rituals, such as the Festival de Música del Pacífico, where Afro-Colombian cultural heritage is celebrated through dance and music. This event attracts tourists and locals alike, becoming a meeting point to celebrate the diversity and cultural richness of the region.
If you visit Getsemaní, don't just listen to the drum; also seek to interact with the palenqueros. Many of them are willing to share their stories and teachings about the music and its importance in local culture. Take the opportunity to learn some steps of the dance that accompanies the drum, and if you're lucky, you might become part of one of these spontaneous celebrations.
What to Do
La Casa de la Cultura de Getsemaní
This space not only hosts cultural events but is also an epicenter for local artistic expressions. Here, you can find drum and Afro-Colombian dance workshops. Insider Tip: Ask about the drum classes that are often offered on weekends; they are an excellent opportunity to learn and connect with the community.
Las Playas de Bocagrande
Just minutes from Getsemaní, these beaches are perfect for relaxing after an afternoon of music. Although they are more touristy, there is always some palenquero playing on the shore. Insider Tip: Bring your own drink and enjoy the sunset while listening to the rhythm of the drum in the distance.
Cafés and Bars of Getsemaní
The neighborhood has a variety of cafés and bars where you can enjoy good live music. Local venues often have programming with local artists, so don't hesitate to go in and ask. Insider Tip: Look for places like Café del Mar or La esquina del sabor, where community musicians often perform.
Where to Eat or Drink
La Casa de la Cerveza
An ideal place to enjoy a wide variety of local craft beers. The atmosphere is relaxed and there is often live music, which perfectly complements the vibrant vibe of Getsemaní. Insider Tip: Try the passion fruit beer; it's a hit among locals and has a fresh flavor that highlights the Caribbean essence.
El Boliche Cebichería
This small place is famous for its fresh and tasty ceviches, which reflect the rich culinary tradition of the coast. The service is personalized and the atmosphere is cozy. Insider Tip: Don't leave without trying the shrimp ceviche with mango, a dish that highlights the contrast between sweet and salty.
Café del Mar
Located on the city walls, this café is perfect for enjoying a drink while watching the sunset. It's a popular spot, so it's often crowded, but it's worth the wait. Insider Tip: Go early to get a good spot and enjoy a tropical fruit cocktail while listening to the background music of the sea.