Getsemaní: The Neighborhood That Breathes Cartagena's True Soul
There's a Cartagena that doesn't appear on tourist postcards, that isn't sold in all-inclusive packages, that can't be photographed from a panoramic bus. That Cartagena beats in Getsemaní, a neighborhood that for decades was the best-kept secret of locals and today, without losing its essence, has become the cultural heart of the walled city.
History and Transformation of the Neighborhood
Getsemaní was born as the neighborhood of artisans, fishermen, and workers who built the walls that are now a World Heritage Site. For centuries, it was the place where those who served the rich merchants and nobles inside the walls lived. But in the last fifteen years, something changed. Artists began arriving, attracted by low rents and the authenticity they could no longer find in the Historic Center. What were once family homes became improvised galleries, what were abandoned warehouses transformed into creative studios.
Today Getsemaní is that place where the grandmother who has lived there for seventy years coexists with the Argentine artist who arrived three months ago. Where the smell of fried fish mixes with specialty coffee. Where walls speak in colors and streets are named after poets.
Street Art and Iconic Murals
Walking through Getsemaní is like touring an open-air gallery. Every corner has a painted story. On Calle de la Sierpe you'll find the most photographed mural: a tiger that seems to watch over the neighborhood, the work of local artist David Londoño. On Calle del Guerrero, a woman with flowers in her hair silently observes the coming and going of tourists and locals. In Plaza de la Trinidad, the walls tell the story of the neighborhood's resistance, its struggles and victories.
But art here isn't just decoration. It's memory. It's protest. It's celebration. The murals change, they're painted over others, the neighborhood constantly renews itself. We recommend starting your tour on Calle de la Media Luna and letting yourself get lost in the surrounding streets. Bring your camera, but above all, bring time to stop and understand what you're seeing.
Plazas and Community Life
If art is Getsemaní's skin, the plazas are its heart. Plaza de la Trinidad is the place where everything happens. In the mornings, grandparents play dominoes under the shade of trees. In the afternoons, children play soccer while their mothers chat on benches. At night, the plaza fills with life: street musicians, empanada vendors, couples in love, groups of friends sharing a beer.
But there are other less-known plazas worth discovering. Plaza del Pozo, hidden among alleyways, where you can still see women washing clothes by hand. Plaza de San Diego, quieter, perfect for reading a book or simply watching life go by.
Local Cuisine and Charming Bars
In Getsemaní you eat like at home, but you also experiment like in the world's best restaurants. For the former, look for the street stalls on Calle del Arsenal: freshly fried arepas de huevo, hot carimañolas, natural juices made on the spot. For the latter, reserve at La Cocina de Pepina, where the chef prepares traditional recipes with a contemporary touch. Or at El Barón, a restaurant in a restored colonial house where each dish tells a story.
When the sun sets, Getsemaní transforms. On Calle de la Media Luna, bars open their doors. Demente has the best atmosphere and creative cocktails. Ábaco is a bookstore-bar where you can buy a book and have a glass of wine at the same time. La Tertulia is quieter, perfect for conversation without having to shout.
Neighborhood Events and Festivals
Getsemaní doesn't sleep, especially when there are festivals. The most important is the Cartagena International Film Festival (FICCI), which every year fills the streets with outdoor screenings, concerts, and meetings with directors. In December, the Independence Festivals turn the neighborhood into a huge party with music, dances, and parades.
But there are smaller events that are equally special. The first Friday of each month, Gallery Night opens the doors of local artists' studios. Saturday mornings, the Agroecological Market at Plaza de la Trinidad offers fresh products from regional farmers.
Practical Information for Your Visit
Safety: Getsemaní is generally safe, especially in the more crowded areas. As with any tourist destination, keep your belongings close, avoid dark and lonely streets at night, and trust your instincts. Locals are friendly and always willing to help.
Best time to visit: Early mornings (before 10 am) are magical: the neighborhood wakes up, there are few tourists, the light is perfect for photographs. Afternoons (4-7 pm) are ideal for seeing community life in the plazas. Evenings (after 8 pm) are for enjoying the dining and bar scene.
How to get around: Getsemaní is best explored on foot. The streets are narrow and cobblestoned, wear comfortable shoes. If you're coming from the Historic Center, it's just a 10-15 minute walk via Calle del Arsenal.
Frequently Asked Questions About Getsemaní
- Where is Getsemaní located? Getsemaní is located just south of Cartagena's Historic Center, Colombia, between Avenida Santander and Bahía de las Ánimas.
- Is it safe to visit Getsemaní? Yes, especially during the day and in more crowded areas like Plaza de la Trinidad and Calle de la Media Luna. As with any tourist destination, take basic precautions with your belongings.
- What should I not miss in Getsemaní? Plaza de la Trinidad at sunset, street art on Calle de la Sierpe, a meal at La Cocina de Pepina, and a cocktail at Demente.
- Are there accommodation options in Getsemaní? Yes, the neighborhood has several lodging options, from budget hostels to boutique hotels in restored colonial houses.
Getsemaní isn't a neighborhood to see, it's a neighborhood to feel. To sit in a plaza and let time pass. To chat with a local about their family history. To try a dish you won't find on any tourist menu. To understand that the true Cartagena isn't in the walls, but in the people who live inside and outside them.
Come to Getsemaní. But come willing to leave a piece of yourself here, because this neighborhood has a habit of keeping a piece of the heart of those who visit.