Eating Like a Local in Getsemaní: 5 Unreviewed Eateries on Google
If you arrived in Cartagena looking for the perfect Instagram plate, with a mojito in hand and a sea view, you'll find restaurants charging you 50,000 pesos for a ceviche that tastes like lime and little else. But if what you want is to taste home cooking, the kind grandma makes from 5 in the morning, then you have to leave the tourist center and dive into the streets of Getsemaní. Here, there are no Google reviews because the owners don't even know what that is. Here, you eat with your hands, pay in cash, and chat with the cook. As of May 2026, these five eateries remain the neighborhood's best-kept secret.
Why Getsemaní's Eateries Are Better Than Any Trendy Restaurant
At Plaza de la Trinidad, you see tourists with their plates of coconut rice and fried fish costing 40,000 pesos. But if you walk two blocks south, enter a nameless street, and see a half-open wooden door smelling of onion and cumin, that's where the truth lies. The eateries have no written menu, no air conditioning, and sometimes the owner tells you, "today there's only fish stew, because that's what was at the market." And that's exactly what makes them worth it. You eat for 10,000 or 15,000 pesos, and the flavor reminds you that Colombian food isn't made with YouTube recipes, but with hands that have cooked for decades.
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The 5 Eateries You Need to Know
1. La Cocinita de Doña Rosa
Address: Calle del Sargento, between Carrera 10B and Calle de la Media Luna. It's a yellow house with a green wooden door. There's no sign, but there's always a lady sitting on a plastic chair outside.
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11:30 am to 3:00 pm. Sundays only if there's fresh fish, and it closes when the food runs out (usually before 1 pm).
Signature dish: Coconut rice with fish in homemade tomato sauce. Doña Rosa cooks the rice with hand-grated coconut, not canned coconut milk. The fish is always fresh, from the day. Sometimes it comes with patacones or a bit of avocado salad.
Price: 12,000 COP (reference price as of May 2026).
Owner's story: Doña Rosa is 68 years old and has lived her entire life in Getsemaní. She started selling empanadas on the corner 30 years ago, then set up the eatery in her own home. She says she learned to cook by watching her mother, who worked in a hotel kitchen in the center. She has no social media and doesn't know what Google is. Her daughter, who lives in Bogotá, once told her to "put it on the internet," but she replied, "If people want to eat well, let them come and ask."
2. El Fogón de Don Toño
Address: Calle de la Media Luna, # 10-45. It's a small place, painted light blue, with a charcoal grill at the entrance. If you see smoke and smell grilled meat, you've arrived.
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 6:00 pm to 10:00 pm. On Thursdays, it opens at noon because he sells mondongo.
Signature dish: The grilled meat platter with arepa, patacón, rice, and beans. Don Toño grills the meat over charcoal, with a secret marinade that includes cumin, garlic, and beer. He makes the arepa himself, with pounded corn.
Owner's story: Don Toño is a former fisherman who left the sea after an accident in 2010. He started selling grilled meat at his doorstep because "meat sells easier than fish." He always has a smile and tells you stories of when he sailed the bay. If he likes you, he'll give you some of his wife's homemade suero costeño.
3. La Mesa de la Abuela Marta
Address: Calle del Espíritu Santo, # 8-20. It's a colonial house with an inner courtyard. The entrance is through a long hallway that smells of coffee and fried plantain. There's no sign, but there's a large wooden table in the courtyard where the neighbors sit.
Hours: Friday and Saturday, 12:00 pm to 4:00 pm. Sundays from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm (breakfast and lunch).
Signature dish: Fish stew with patacones and rice. Abuela Marta makes it with rock fish, yucca, plantain, corn, and a touch of cilantro that awakens your soul. It's served hot, in a deep earthenware bowl.
Owner's story: Marta is 74 years old and has been cooking since she was 12. Her eatery was born because neighbors asked her to sell them the food she made for her family. She never wanted to open a formal restaurant because "that's too much trouble." Her specialty is the stew, which she makes with fish she personally buys at the market every Friday at 5 am.
4. La Esquina del Chicharrón de Juancho
Address: Calle de la Sierpe, corner with Carrera 11. It's a wooden cart with a red umbrella. There are no chairs, just a long board where people eat standing up. If you see a line of 5 people, that's the place.
Hours: Wednesday to Sunday, 7:00 am to 12:00 pm, or until the chicharrones run out (almost always by 10 am).
Signature dish: Crispy chicharrón with arepa and hogao. Juancho fries the chicharrón in lard, in an iron cauldron. The skin is so crunchy it crackles when you bite it. He serves it with a grilled arepa and a homemade tomato and onion hogao.
Price: 8,000 COP for a large chicharrón with arepa.
Owner's story: Juancho is a 45-year-old Cartagenero who worked in construction until he lost a finger in an accident. With the insurance money, he bought the cart and started selling chicharrón because "that's what I know best." He's known throughout Getsemaní for his seasoning, and neighbors bring him pre-prepared chicharrones to fry.
5. La Olla de la Tía Lola
Address: Calle del Arsenal, # 12-30, on the second floor. You have to climb some creaky wooden stairs. There's no sign, but there's a beaded curtain at the entrance.
Hours: Thursday to Saturday, 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm. It also opens some Sundays, but only if there's enough food.
Signature dish: Seafood rice, which is not the typical rice with frozen shrimp. Lola uses fresh squid, local shrimp, and langoustines when available. Everything is cooked in a fish broth with achiote and paprika.
Owner's story: Lola is a 60-year-old woman who inherited the recipe from her grandmother, who cooked at an eatery in the port. She goes to the market every day to buy the seafood herself. She says the most important thing is "not to rush the rice, let it cook slowly so it absorbs the flavor." Her eatery is a well-kept secret, and only the neighbors know it exists.
How to Order at an Eatery (Without Looking Like a Lost Tourist)
At eateries, there's no menu or waiter to take your order. The owner greets you from the kitchen and says, "What can I get for you?" or "Today I have stew and coconut rice." You need to answer clearly: "Give me a plate of stew, please." Don't ask "What options do you have?" because they'll look at you strangely. If you don't know what's available, ask "What are you cooking today?"
The best time to arrive for lunch is before 1 pm, because by 2 pm the food is gone. If you're going for breakfast, between 7 and 9 am is the time. Don't expect a kids' menu or vegetarian options; here you eat what's available, and what's available is meat, fish, rice, and beans.
What to Avoid at an Eatery
- Don't ask for substitutions: If the dish comes with rice and patacón, don't say "Can it be with salad?" because there is no salad. Here, you eat it as it's served.
- Don't use a card: All the eateries on this list only accept cash. If you don't have small bills, better change some at a store beforehand.
- Don't complain about the time: The food is made to order, there are no microwaves. If it takes 20 minutes, it's because they're cooking, not because they're slow.
- Don't expect air conditioning: It's hot, the fans are ceiling fans and sometimes they don't work. Bring a handkerchief for the sweat.
The Best Time to Visit Each Eatery
- La Cocinita de Doña Rosa: Arrive at 11:30 am just as it opens, because by 1 pm there's no more coconut rice.
- El Fogón de Don Toño: At 6:30 pm, when the meat is fresh off the grill.
- La Mesa de la Abuela Marta: Sundays at 10 am, to have stew for breakfast (yes, stew is eaten for breakfast on the coast).
- La Esquina del Chicharrón de Juancho: At 7:30 am, before the chicharrones run out.
- La Olla de la Tía Lola: At 8 pm, when the rice is at its perfect point.
How to Get to These Eateries Without Google Maps
Forget your phone. In Getsemaní, streets don't have clear names and addresses are more of a rumor than a fact. Here's a walking route, the way a local would do it:
- Start at Plaza de la Trinidad. It's the easiest landmark. Look for the yellow church.
- Walk south on Calle de la Media Luna. You'll see a grocery store on the corner. El Fogón de Don Toño is nearby.
- Turn left onto Calle del Sargento. After half a block, look for the yellow house with a green door. That's La Cocinita de Doña Rosa.
- Continue straight to Calle del Espíritu Santo. It's a narrow street with trees. Abuela Marta's house is at # 8-20, with a hallway that smells of coffee.
- Return to Plaza de la Trinidad and take Calle de la Sierpe. At the corner with Carrera 11, you'll see Juancho's red cart.
- For La Olla de la Tía Lola, walk east on Calle del Arsenal. Look for a house with wooden stairs and a beaded curtain. It's the only one on that street with a second floor.
If you get lost, ask any older lady sweeping the sidewalk. Say "Excuse me, where is Doña Rosa's eatery?" and she'll point the way. Don't use the street name, use the eatery's name.
Code of Conduct: How Not to Be a Bad Tourist
These eateries are family homes, not restaurants. Here are unwritten rules you must respect:
- Don't take photos without permission. Ask first: "Do you mind if I take a photo of the food?" or "Can I take a photo of you?" If they say no, respect it. Many owners are older and don't like being recorded.
- Pay in cash and with small bills. Don't expect them to have change for a 50,000 peso bill. Bring 1,000 and 2,000 peso coins.
- Don't leave a tip on the table. Here, you give the tip to the owner's hand, with a "thank you, it was very good." 10% is fine, but it's not mandatory.
- Don't wear strong perfume. The smell of food is part of the experience. Don't ruin the aroma of the stew with a sweet perfume.
- Don't sit down without asking. Sometimes the chairs belong to neighbors. Ask "Can I sit here?" before doing so.
Local Tips to Make the Most of It
- Bring your own water bottle. Eateries don't sell cold drinks. You can buy a soda at the store next door.
- If you go in a group, order different dishes. That way you can try everything. Each eatery has a signature dish, but if there are four of you, order two of each and share.
- Don't be afraid to ask for more. If you liked it, say "Can I have a little more rice?" and they'll serve you without issue. Here, generosity is part of the culture.
- Chat with the owner. Ask them where they get their ingredients or how they learned to cook. They'll tell you stories you won't find in any travel guide.
- If it rains, don't leave. The eateries have zinc roofs, and the sound of rain while you eat stew is an experience money can't buy.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are the Eateries Safe for Tourists?
Yes, Getsemaní is a safe neighborhood during the day. The eateries are on busy streets and there are always neighbors around. That said, don't walk around with your phone in hand or flash large bills. Use common sense as you would in any city.
Can I Go If I'm Vegetarian or Vegan?
The eateries specialize in meat and fish. There are no vegan options. If you're vegetarian, you can order rice with egg or patacones, but don't expect an elaborate dish. Better look for a restaurant in the center if you have dietary restrictions.
How Much Does It Cost to Eat at an Eatery?
Prices range from 8,000 to 20,000 COP per dish, depending on the eatery and the dish. A full lunch (main course + drink) will cost you between 15,000 and 25,000 COP. It's significantly cheaper than at the tourist restaurants in the center.
Can I Bring Children?
Yes, the eateries are family-friendly. Children are welcome, but there's no kids' menu or special chairs. If your child is small, bring your own wipes for cleaning.
Are the Eateries Open Every Day?
# Each eatery has specific hours. Some only open three days a week. The best time to go is during the week, Tuesday to Saturday, and always before 1 pm for lunch.
Want More Secrets of Getsemaní?
These five eateries are just the tip of the iceberg. In Getsemaní, there are dozens of home kitchens that open only on certain days, when there's fresh fish or when the owner feels like it. They're not on Google, they have no social media, and sometimes they don't even have a name. The only way to find out is through the neighbors.
That's why I created the weekly newsletter 'Sabor Getsemaní'. Every Friday, I send you an email with the eateries open that weekend, the dish of the day, and the gossip about who's cooking. It's not for mass tourists; it's for those who want to eat like locals. Subscribe and don't miss the next eatery that opens only when there's a full moon (yes, it exists).
Subscribe to the 'Sabor Getsemaní' newsletter and receive the eateries no tourist knows about every Friday.
Historical or Contextual Introduction
Getsemaní, a neighborhood that has seen significant transformations over the years, is a vibrant reflection of Cartagena's history and culture. Originally, this area was an important defensive point for the city, with its walls designed to protect against pirate attacks. Today, Getsemaní is known for its bohemian atmosphere and nightlife, but it also harbors a rich culinary tradition that often goes unnoticed by tourists.
The gastronomy in Getsemaní is marked by African, indigenous, and Spanish influences, resulting in unique flavors found in the eateries and restaurants of the area. Here, recipes have been passed down from generation to generation, and each dish tells a story of resistance and culinary creativity. What many don't know is that by choosing to eat at these eateries, you're not only enjoying good food but also supporting the local economy and the culture of a neighborhood that has fought to maintain its identity amidst mass tourism.
Some recommendations for enjoying the culinary experience in Getsemaní include:
- Explore local markets: Don't miss the Mercado de Bazurto, where the authentic flavors of the region are found on every corner. Here you can try everything from the famous "arequipe" to "plátano en tentación."
- Connect with locals: Talk to the owners of the eateries. Often, they are willing to share the story behind their dishes, adding a special dimension to your gastronomic experience.
- Try typical dishes: Make sure to taste "coconut rice" and "fried mojarra," two dishes that reflect the coastal heritage of Cartagena and are a must at any local eatery.
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What to Do
La Cevichería
A classic in Getsemaní, known for its fresh and flavorful ceviche. Here, the blend of local flavors stands out in every bite. Customer service is exceptional, and it's a place where Cartageneros feel at home.
Insider Tip: Go early to avoid the line, especially during lunchtime. Don't forget to try their shrimp and mango ceviche, a refreshing combination that will make you come back.
El Kiosko
This spot is perfect for enjoying a good lunch without complications. Its menu includes typical dishes like ajiaco and bandeja paisa, all prepared with fresh ingredients. It's a place where the local atmosphere is felt in every corner.
Insider Tip: Order the coconut lemonade; it's a must that pairs well with any dish. Also, the service is fast, ideal if you're looking for a lunch in the middle of your walks.
Fonda La Chola
An eatery that captures the essence of coastal cuisine. Here, empanadas and patacones are the stars. Its relaxed and colorful atmosphere will make you feel like you're in the true heart of Getsemaní.
Insider Tip: They often have live music in the afternoon. Enjoy a local beer while savoring their delights and feel the rhythm of the city.
Casa de la Cerveza
Although it's better known for its wide selection of craft beers, the food here doesn't fall short. Try their nachos with shredded beef, a delight to share. It's an ideal place to relax after a day of exploration.
Insider Tip: Ask about the beers of the month. They often have promotions that allow you to try new local brands at a good price.
Restaurante La Mulata
This restaurant is famous for its focus on local and sustainable ingredients. Its dishes are a reflection of the region's gastronomic diversity, with a modern twist. La Mulata is perfect for a more relaxed dinner after a day of sightseeing.
Insider Tip: Book in advance if you plan to go on a weekend, as it fills up quickly. Their menu changes frequently, so ask for the day's recommendations.