Introduction: The Modernism Hiding Between Concrete and Sea
When you walk through Bocagrande, the first thing you see are the glass towers and shopping malls that dominate the skyline. But if you look closely, among that landscape of hotels and banks, there is an architectural past that few notice. Between the 1950s and 1970s, Cartagena experienced a modernist fever that transformed this mangrove peninsula into a laboratory of forms, concrete, and tropical ventilation. Here you won't find the colonial Cartagena of postcards, but another side of the city: that of local architects who dreamed of skyscrapers facing the Caribbean. In May 2026, you can still trace this legacy if you know where to look.
This neighborhood, which was once a sandbar with a few fishermen's houses, became the first Colombian "Miami" thanks to architects like Manuel José Álvarez or Guillermo González Zuleta. They brought clean lines, concrete lattices, and terraces that embraced the wind. Today, many of these buildings are hidden behind remodeled facades or simply ignored. This guide is for you to find them, understand them, and, if you feel like it, photograph them as they deserve.
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What to Do: A Route of 5 Must-See Buildings
I put together a walk of about 3 hours (with stops for photos and a coffee) that takes you through the key points of Bocagrande modernism. Bring water, sunscreen, and a camera with a good wide-angle lens. Here are the protagonists.
Edificio Bocagrande (Calle 3 # 4-31)
This is the grandfather of them all. Built in 1965 by architect Manuel José Álvarez, it was the first skyscraper in Cartagena with 17 floors. Its exposed concrete facade and slit windows look like something out of a 60s movie. The most impressive feature is the balcony slabs that jut out like wings, designed to provide shade without blocking the wind. Today it is a bit run-down, but its structure remains an icon. If you want a clean photo, get up early: at 7am the light hits it head-on and there aren't many parked cars.
Torres del Parque (Cra 2 con Calle 5)
A complex of three twin towers from 1972, the work of Guillermo González Zuleta, the same architect who built Estadio El Campín in Bogotá. The trick here is the concrete lattices that cover the facades like a skin. They are not just decorative: they control the sun and let the air through. The best way to see them is from the park that gives them their name, a small green lung between the buildings. Look for the angle from the south side, where the towers are reflected in the windows of a neighboring building.
Edificio El Faro (Cra 1 # 5-12)
This building from 1968 is a rarity: it has an L-shaped floor plan that embraces a communal pool, something very advanced for its time. Architect Hernando Vargas Rubiano used perforated concrete blocks (called "ventilation blocks") across the entire facade, giving it an almost lace-like appearance. Today it is painted white, but originally it was gray concrete. If you can get into the lobby (it's residential, but sometimes the doorman lets you in), there is a ceramic mural by Eduardo Ramírez Villamizar that is worth seeing.
Edificio Bahía (Calle 6 # 3-45)
From 1970, this building is the perfect example of how tropical modernism adapted to the heat. Its facade has horizontal aluminum "brise-soleil" (sunbreakers), a detail only seen in archive photos. Unfortunately, a 90s renovation added mirrored glass, but from the side facing the sea (Cra 1) you can still see the original slabs. It's an office building, so you can go up to the 8th floor (there's a bank) and take photos of the skyline from there.
Edificio Capilla del Mar (Cra 1 # 8-60)
We close with one that isn't so hidden but that many mistake for just another hotel. It's from 1975, by architect Ricardo Guerrero, and has a concrete facade with circular windows that look like portholes. The charm is on the corner: a round tower that breaks the neighborhood's grid. From the pedestrian bridge crossing the avenue, you have a perfect view of that curve. It's the ideal end to the route, because right next to it there's a natural juice stand (run by Señora Martha) where you can have a glass of corozo juice for $5,000 COP.
Where to Eat or Drink: Stops to Recharge
After so much walking and looking up, your neck needs a rest and your stomach something cold. Here are three options near the route.
La Palettería (Cra 3 # 6-23)
An artisanal popsicle shop half a block from Edificio Bahía. They have tropical fruit popsicles (mango with chili, passion fruit) and milk-based ones (arequipe, coconut). Each costs about $6,000 COP and is perfect for the heat. The place is small, but it has a shaded terrace.
Restaurante La Mulata (Calle 4 # 3-12)
If you're really hungry, this coastal food restaurant is just right. It's near Torres del Parque. Try the rice with coconut and fried fish (executive lunch for $25,000 COP). It's not gourmet, but it's authentic and filling. Open Monday to Saturday, 11am to 6pm.
Café San Alberto (Cra 1 # 7-45, inside Edificio Capilla del Mar)
A specialty coffee shop on the first floor of the last building on the route. Order a filtered coffee ($8,000 COP) and sit by the window facing the sea. The place has a modern design that contrasts with the 70s building, and sometimes they play music on vinyl. It's a good spot to review the photos you took.
How to Get There and Transportation
Bocagrande is 10 minutes by taxi from the Centro Histórico. If you're coming from the airport, a taxi costs about $25,000 COP (negotiate before getting in). You can also take a city bus (route "Bocagrande" or "Marbella") that leaves from Plaza de la Aduana for $2,800 COP, but it drops you off on the main avenue, not at the tip.
For the walking route I propose, walking is best. The streets are flat and the distances short (about 2 kilometers total). If you get tired, you can use the yellow "mototaxis" that run along Cra 3: they'll take you from one point to another for $5,000 COP. I don't recommend renting a car because traffic at rush hour (5pm to 7pm) is hellish and parking is expensive (private parking lots from $8,000 COP per hour).
Local Tips
- Photo times: The softest light is between 6:30am and 8:30am, and then between 4pm and 5:30pm. At noon the sun is so strong that facades look flat and shadows are very harsh.
- Avoid obstructions: Many buildings have trees or poles in front. For Edificio Bocagrande, stand on the corner of Calle 3 and Cra 4; for Torres del Parque, look for the angle from the park itself, near the swing.
- Permissions: If you want to enter the lobbies, dress decently (no flip-flops and sweaty t-shirt) and be friendly with the security guards. Sometimes they let you in if you say you're an architecture student. Bring a notebook or professional camera to make it more believable.
- Fun fact: Edificio Bocagrande was so controversial in its time that neighbors from the Centro Histórico protested because it "ruined the colonial view." Today it is an architectural heritage of the city, although not officially declared.
- Climate: Bring a hat and sunscreen. In May 2026, the heat index can reach 35°C. Hydrate every 30 minutes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to walk around Bocagrande at night?
Yes, Bocagrande is one of the safest neighborhoods in Cartagena, especially on the main streets (Cra 1, Cra 3, and Calle 5). However, avoid dark and lonely streets after 9pm, like Calle 2 near the mangrove. Always keep your cell phone put away and don't show valuables.
Can I enter the buildings to see the interiors?
It depends. Residential buildings (like El Faro and Bocagrande) have 24-hour security and do not allow access without authorization from a resident. Office buildings (like Bahía and Capilla del Mar) are more flexible: you can enter the lobby and go up to the 8th floor during business hours (8am to 6pm). Always ask at the reception and be respectful.
Is there an app or digital map for this route?
There is no official app yet, but you can download an interactive map with GPS coordinates for each building from the Malokal website (malokal.com/guias/bocagrande-modernista). It includes historical photos and data on the architects. It's free and updated every six months.
CTA: Download the interactive map with GPS coordinates for each building at malokal.com/guias/bocagrande-modernista. It will help you not miss a single detail.