Walking Routes Through the Forgotten Walls: Historical Hiking in Cartagena's Fortifications (Without Tourists)

Introduction

When most people think of the Cartagena walls, they imagine the section of the Centro Histórico, full of vueltiao hat vendors, tourists posing for photos, and the constant noise of cars. But the true gem of Spanish military engineering lies in the forgotten sections, those far from the postcards. A few blocks from the Torre del Reloj, there are bastions and forts where the only sound is the wind and the sea. In July 2026, if you want to walk without haste and without jostling, you need to know these walking routes I'm about to tell you about.

Here there are no lines for ice cream or sunset selfies in the background. This is real historical hiking: stones that hold centuries of battles, views of the Caribbean known only to locals, and, incidentally, good exercise. Get ready to sweat, because the sun in Cartagena is relentless, but the reward is a city few have seen.

List of secret sections of the Cartagena walls

1. Fuerte de San Sebastián de Pastelillo – The fishermen's fort

This fort is in the El Laguito neighborhood, right next to the Club de Pesca. Most people walk past it thinking it's just an expensive restaurant, but the real treasure is at the base of the wall, where local fishermen tie up their boats. From here you can see the entire Cartagena bay, including Isla de Tierra Bomba. The path starts on Avenida Miramar, right where the hotel zone of Bocagrande ends. It's only 800 meters one way, but the ground is uneven, with loose stones and tree roots embedded in the walls. Wear closed-toe shoes, not flip-flops. The best time is 6:30 in the morning, when the sun is just warming up and the pelicans dive into the water. Fun fact: this fort was built in the 18th century to protect the entrance to the bay, but it never received a direct attack. The Spanish used it more as a gunpowder warehouse than a combat position.

2. Baluarte de San Ignacio – The secret viewpoint of the Historic Center

Located on Calle Larga, right behind the Museo Naval del Caribe, this bastion is one of the least visited in the entire wall system. The entrance is discreet: a rusty wooden door that looks like it leads to a repair workshop, but upon crossing it you find a stone platform that faces directly out to sea. From here you can see the San Felipe Castle, but from an angle no one else has. The walk from Plaza de los Coches to here is about 15 minutes at a leisurely pace, but the ground is colonial cobblestone, so watch your ankles. The best thing about this place is that it's almost always empty. Tourists stay on the wall on Avenida Santander, but this section is less than 50 meters long, with stone benches where you can sit and read a book without anyone interrupting you. Tip: bring water, because there are no shops nearby. And if you see a colonial graffiti on the wall, don't touch it; some are over 200 years old and are marks from the soldiers who guarded the port.

3. Muralla de la Media Luna – The ghost section

This is the longest and least known section of all the Cartagena fortifications. It runs from the Fuerte de la Media Luna, in the Manga neighborhood, to the San Francisco Bastion, in the Center. It's almost 2 kilometers of wall bordering the Ciénaga de las Quintas, a wetland that many Cartagena locals don't even know exists. The path is compacted earth and limestone, with thick vegetation on the sides. There is no shade, so if you go at 11 in the morning, you'll fry. The best time is at sunset, between 4:30 and 5:30 in the afternoon, when the light changes and the herons perch on the walls. The difficulty is medium: there are sections where the wall has partially collapsed and you have to descend carefully. The most impressive thing is the original cannons that are still in place, pointing towards the swamp. According to local historians, this was the weakest point in Cartagena's defense, because the Spanish thought no one would attack through a swamp. They were wrong: in 1741, English troops tried to land right here, but sank in the mud. Today it's a paradise for birdwatchers and those seeking absolute silence.

4. Baluarte de Santa Catalina – The staircase to the sea

If you enter through the Puerta del Reloj and walk to the right, past Plaza de los Coches, you reach a stone staircase that goes directly down to the water. That is the Baluarte de Santa Catalina. Most people walk along the top, but the magic is below, where the waves crash against the walls and you can see the cannonball holes still embedded in the stone. The descent is steep and the stairs are narrow, with rusty iron handrails. It is not for people with mobility issues. Once below, there is a small concrete platform used by local fishermen to cast their nets. From here, the view of the San Felipe Castle is completely different: it seems to be floating over the city. The sound of the sea is so loud you can't hear anything else. It's a perfect place to meditate or take photos without people. The trick: go at 6 in the morning, when the fishermen are pulling in their boats and the sun is just peeking over the Cerro de La Popa. Bring mosquito repellent, because the mosquitoes rule the place until the sun warms up well.

5. Fuerte de San Fernando – The abandoned fortress on the island

This one is not in the city, but on Isla de Tierra Bomba, a 20-minute boat ride from Muelle de la Bodeguita. But when it comes to historical hiking, it's a must-see. The San Fernando Fort is an 18th-century fortress that was never finished. It was left half-built, with walls up to 10 meters high and tunnels that disappear into the darkness. The walk from the island dock to the fort is about 3 kilometers along a sandy, rocky trail surrounded by cacti and dry bushes. There is no shade along the entire route, so hydration is key. Once inside, you can explore the vaults, climb the towers, and see the sea from both sides of the island. The most fascinating thing is the graffiti from Spanish soldiers, carved into the stone with 18th-century dates. Some say things like "Viva el Rey" or "Here died Juan." It's a place that transports you to another era. The round-trip boat costs about 15,000 COP per person (reference prices for July 2026), and the fort has no entrance fee, but it is recommended to leave a tip for the local caretaker who lives next door. Bring plenty of water and something to eat, because there are no restaurants near the fort on the island.

6. Baluarte de San José – The artists' hideout

This bastion is in the Getsemaní neighborhood, right behind the Centro de Convenciones. The entrance is on Calle de la Media Luna, past the Iglesia de la Trinidad. It's a small place, about 30 meters long, but it has one of the most beautiful views of the city: from here you see the Cerro de la Popa, the bay, and the roofs of the colonial houses. What makes it special is that local artists have adopted it as their space. There is almost always someone painting, playing guitar, or just sitting on the stones watching the sunset. There are no vendors, no loud music, only the sound of brushes and hushed conversations. The walk from Plaza de la Trinidad to here is 5 minutes, but the ground is cobblestone and can be slippery if it has rained. The best time is 5 in the afternoon, when the light is golden and the artists start to arrive. If you're lucky, they'll give you a drawing or tell you stories of what Getsemaní was like before mass tourism arrived.

Map or how to get there

You don't need GPS for these routes, but you do need a bit of intuition and a willingness to get lost. Most of the sections are connected by the wall system that surrounds the Historic Center and Getsemaní. If you start at the Fuerte de Pastelillo (in El Laguito), you can walk north along Avenida Miramar until you reach the Baluarte de San Ignacio (on Calle Larga). From there, follow the wall east, past the Puerta del Reloj, and you'll reach the Baluarte de Santa Catalina. For the Media Luna section, you have to leave the Center and walk towards Manga, crossing the Puente Román. The Fuerte de San Fernando requires a boat, but the boatmen at Muelle de la Bodeguita know the route. If you get lost, ask any local over 50; they know where the secret entrances are. One tip: download an offline map of the area before you leave, because in some sections there is no cell signal.

Conclusion or final recommendation

Cartagena is not just its beaches and expensive restaurants. The forgotten walls are a testament to the history that still breathes in every stone. Walking these sections is like reading a book of battles without having to pay for a museum entrance. If you prefer silence to noise, stone to concrete, and history to selfies, these routes are for you. Just remember: bring water, sunscreen, comfortable shoes, and above all, respect for these walls that have seen centuries pass. Don't leave trash, don't touch the ancient graffiti, and if you find a cannon, don't climb on it. The city will thank you.

Download the interactive map of Cartagena's secret walls – ideal for your next walk. Scan the QR code at the tourism office in Plaza de los Coches or find it on the Malokal website. It will save you from unnecessary wandering under the sun.

Numbered list (minimum 5 items with mini-review)

1. Batería del Ángel San Rafael

   This fortification, located north of the city, offers spectacular views of the bay. Although not as well-known as other structures, its history as a strategic defense point in the 18th century makes it invaluable. Insider Tip: Visit at sunset for a magical experience, and don't forget to bring your camera to capture the landscape.

2. Batería de San José

   Situated in the Getsemaní area, this battery is an excellent example of colonial military architecture. The tranquility of the place allows for reflection on its historical importance without the hustle and bustle of tourists. Insider Tip: Bring a picnic and enjoy the shade of the trees while learning about local history through the informational plaques.

3. Fuerte de San Sebastián del Pastelillo

   This fort, located at the entrance to the bay, was vital for the defense of Cartagena. Although less visited, its well-preserved structure and strategic location make it a fascinating place to explore. Insider Tip: Look for a local guide who can tell you the legends surrounding this place, many of which are not found in tourist guides.

4. Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas

   Considered one of the most imposing forts in the Americas, San Felipe is a must-see. Although popular, there are less-traveled routes within its walls that will make you feel like an explorer. Insider Tip: Opt for a guided tour during less crowded times, such as early morning or late afternoon, to avoid the crowds.

5. Mural de Los Héroes

   This mural, although not a fortification, is located near the walls and is a tribute to the heroes of independence. With a vibrant design full of symbolism, it is an interesting contrast to the military history surrounding the city. Insider Tip: Ask local artists about the meaning behind each figure, as many of them are willing to share their stories.

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