Cartagena de Indias, with its walls that tell stories of pirates and conquistadors, holds in its streets a secret that awakens with the aroma of fried fish and grated coconut. Its gastronomy is a journey in itself, a blend of indigenous, African, and Spanish influences that merge in the Colombian Caribbean, creating flavors that have withstood the passage of time and refuse to be forgotten. Here, every dish is a tale of resistance, adaptation, and celebration.
Introduction to Cartagena's gastronomy and influences
Cartagena's cuisine was born from the forced encounter of worlds. Indigenous people contributed corn, cassava, and fish; Africans, brought in chains, brought cooking techniques and spices like sesame; Spaniards introduced rice, pork, and convent sweets. This culinary melting pot simmered slowly under the Caribbean sun, giving life to a cuisine that is a feast for the palate. It's not just about nourishment, it's about commemorating history with every bite.
Essential traditional dishes
Egg arepa: More than a breakfast, it's a morning ritual. A fried yellow corn arepa, carefully opened to pour a raw egg inside, which cooks immediately in the hot oil. Crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, it's the quintessential Cartagena wake-up call. Found at street stalls from 6 a.m., with prices around 2,000 to 3,000 Colombian pesos.
Cocada: The sweet of nostalgia. Made from grated coconut and panela (unrefined cane sugar), cooked until it reaches a texture ranging from soft to crunchy. There are several types: white cocada, black cocada (with more panela), and pineapple cocada. A dessert that refreshes in the heat and sweetens afternoons on the beach, for about 1,500 to 2,500 pesos.
Coconut rice: A side dish that steals the spotlight. Rice cooked with coconut milk, giving it a creamy and slightly sweet flavor that pairs perfectly with fried fish or stews. It's the essence of the Caribbean in a humble dish.
Fried fish with patacón and coconut rice: The inseparable trio. A whole fish (like snapper or mojarra) fried until golden, served with patacón (fried and smashed green plantain) and coconut rice. It's the typical lunch at beachfront restaurants, with prices between 25,000 and 40,000 pesos.
Fish sancocho: A hearty broth that heals the soul. Fresh fish cooked with cassava, plantain, yam, and cilantro, seasoned with garlic and cumin. Served boiling hot, ideal for sharing with family. Local chef Juan Carlos "El Pescador" recommends adding a touch of lemon at the end to enhance the flavors.
Cassava bollo: A versatile side dish. Cassava dough wrapped in plantain leaves and steamed, resulting in a soft and slightly sweet texture. Eaten with coastal cheese or as a base for other dishes.
Carimañola: The queen of fried foods. A cassava dough filled with seasoned ground meat, fried until golden and crispy. It's a popular street snack, for about 3,000 to 4,000 pesos, that can't be missing from any gastronomic tour.
Cartagena black pot roast: A beef stew slowly cooked in a dark sauce of panela, spices, and beer, that melts in your mouth. It represents the African influence in slow and flavorful cooking.
Recommended traditional restaurants
La Cocina de Pepina (Getsemaní): An intimate spot in the bohemian neighborhood, where chef Pepina revives her grandmother's recipes. Try the fish sancocho (30,000 pesos) or the black pot roast (35,000 pesos). Address: Calle del Guerrero #29-45, Getsemaní. Open from 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. Website: www.lacocinadepepina.com (example site).
Coroncoro Restaurant (Historic Center): With over 50 years of tradition, specializing in fish and seafood. The fried fish with patacón and coconut rice costs 38,000 pesos. Address: Calle de la Factoria #36-50, Centro. Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Website: www.restaurantecoroncoro.com (example site).
La Mulata (San Diego): A local favorite for home-style food. Offers a daily menu with dishes like coconut rice and carimañolas for 20,000 pesos. Address: Calle del Quero #9-62, San Diego. Open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Website: www.lamulata.com (example site).
Markets to try local food
Bazurto Market: A universe of flavors and colors. Here you can find everything: fresh fish, exotic fruits, and street stalls serving egg arepas and cassava bollos at popular prices (1,000 to 5,000 pesos). It's chaotic, authentic, and essential to experience the real Cartagena. Go in the morning to avoid crowds. Address: Carrera 29 #25-100, Barrio Bazurto. Hours: 5 a.m. to 4 p.m. every day.
Getsemaní Market: Smaller but just as vibrant, ideal for trying cocadas and natural juices. On weekends there are traditional food stalls where locals buy their ingredients. Address: Calle del Espíritu Santo #29-50, Getsemaní. Hours: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Saturday.
Simple recipes to try at home
Homemade egg arepa: Mix 2 cups of yellow corn flour with water and salt until a smooth dough forms. Shape into discs and fry in hot oil. Before they brown, open a hole, pour an egg, close and continue frying until the egg is cooked. Serve hot.
White cocada: Grate 2 cups of fresh coconut and cook it with 1 cup of sugar and ½ cup of water over medium heat, stirring until thickened. Let cool and form into balls. A sweet connection to the Caribbean from your kitchen.
Frequently asked questions about Cartagena food
What is the most representative dish of Cartagena?
Fried fish with patacón and coconut rice is considered the most emblematic dish, as it combines the three fundamental elements of coastal cuisine: the sea, the land, and the coconut.
Where can I try the best egg arepa?
The street stalls at Bazurto Market and the streets of the Historic Center at dawn offer the most authentic and fresh egg arepas.
Is food expensive in Cartagena?
There are options for all budgets. From street food for less than 5,000 pesos to tourist restaurants where dishes can cost 40,000 pesos or more.
What ingredients are essential in Cartagena cuisine?
- Fresh fish from the Caribbean
- Grated coconut and coconut milk
- Green plantain (for patacones)
- Cassava
- Yellow corn
- Panela (unrefined cane sugar)
What is the best time to visit Cartagena and enjoy its gastronomy?
Every month is good, but between December and April there is less rain, ideal for enjoying outdoor restaurants and street stalls.
Try these traditional dishes on your next trip to Cartagena and live an authentic culinary experience. The food here not only nourishes, but tells the story of a people who have known how to turn adversity into flavor.
