Champeta in the Streets: The Authentic Night of Cartagena Beyond the Tourist Clubs

Origins

To understand the authentic night of Cartagena, you have to start with champeta. It is not just a musical genre: it is the soundtrack of the popular neighborhoods, the voice of those who do not appear on the postcards of the Centro Histórico. It was born in the dirt patios of Chambacú, Olaya Herrera, and Torices, in the late 1970s and early 1980s, when the picós (enormous portable sound systems) began to blast music on street corners.

Champeta draws from African rhythms like soukous, highlife, and mbaqanga, brought by sailors and vinyl records that arrived at the port of Cartagena. But local youth did not just copy: they added their own flavor, with lyrics that spoke about life in the neighborhood, love, heartbreak, and resistance. The name "champeta" comes from the short knife used by market workers, but it also refers to the dance: a fast, catchy hip movement that demands a connection with your partner and the ground.

For decades, champeta was marginalized. Cartagena's elites saw it as "black music," something vulgar that did not deserve space on the radio or in the clubs of the Centro. But in the neighborhoods, champeta never stopped playing. It was the soul of birthday parties, quinceañera dances, and nights of rum on street corners. Today, in May 2026, champeta has crossed borders and plays at international festivals, but its essence remains intact on the streets of Cartagena.

Timeline or Historical Milestones

To understand how champeta went from being persecuted to being the rhythm that defines the Cartagena night, here is a timeline with the key moments:

• 1970s: The first soukous and highlife records arrive at the port of Cartagena. Picós begin to sound in popular neighborhoods. The first "picoteros" (DJs of the era) are born, competing to have the most powerful equipment.
• 1982: The first song recognized as champeta is recorded: "La Cumbia del Caribe" by Luis Carlos "El Mochuelo." Although it is not yet called champeta, it already has the characteristic rhythm.
• 1990s: Champeta explodes with artists like El Afinaíto, El Sayayín, and Elio Boom. The lyrics become rawer, speaking about the reality of the neighborhoods. Authorities ban picós in public spaces for "excessive noise."
• 2000s: "Champetúo" appears, a fusion with reggaeton that makes it more commercial. Artists like Mr. Black and Young F. take champeta to national radio stations.
• 2010s: Champeta begins to play in clubs in the Centro Histórico, but remixed for tourists. Festivals like the "Festival de la Champeta" in San Basilio de Palenque emerge.
• 2020s: The new generation (artists like La Dame Ma, Kevin Florez, and the group Bomba Estéreo, which incorporates champeta) takes it to global stages. In Cartagena, picós return to the streets with more force than ever, now as an alternative tourist attraction.

Key Figures or Events

The Picoteros: The True DJs of the Street

The picoteros are the unsung heroes of champeta. Men and women who carry their sound systems to street corners, squares, and empty warehouses to set up the party. They do not charge admission; they live off beer sales and voluntary tips. One of the most well-known is "Carlos el Picotero," who for 20 years has set up his equipment in Plaza de la Trinidad, in Getsemaní, on Fridays and Saturdays from 9 pm until sunrise.

"Champeta is not played, it is lived," Carlos told me one night in May 2025, as he adjusted the cables of his picó, a monster of speakers that he built himself. "There is no guest list or dress code here. Whoever wants to dance comes, whoever wants to forget their problems."

El Afinaíto: The Poet of the Neighborhood

Humberto "El Afinaíto" is one of the pioneers. He was born in Torices and started singing at picós at age 15. His songs like "La Muerte de un Gallero" and "El Amor No Tiene Edad" are anthems in the neighborhoods. "When I started, champeta was a sin. They threw stones at us, they turned off our speakers. But music is stronger than hate," he told me in an interview at his home in the Olaya Herrera neighborhood. El Afinaíto still sings today, over 60 years old, and every time he stands in front of a microphone, people listen to him in silence.

The Cultural Resistance of the Neighborhoods

A key fact that few people know is that champeta was declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Cartagena in 2013, but only after years of struggle by community leaders. Doña Maritza, a leader from Torices, organized marches with speakers on wheelbarrows to demand recognition of champeta's value. "They told us it was noise, that it was for bums. But champeta is our history, our way of saying we are here," she explained as we drank a corozo juice at the corner store.

Current State

Today, in May 2026, champeta lives a contradictory moment. On one hand, there are more artists than ever, with songs playing on Spotify and radios across the country. The "Champeta Fest" at the Convention Center attracts tourists who pay up to $150,000 COP for a ticket to see the same artists who used to play for free on street corners. But on the other hand, street champeta, the authentic one, remains the heart of the night in neighborhoods like Getsemaní, Torices, Olaya Herrera, and El Pozón.

In Plaza de la Trinidad, in Getsemaní, the picós still play on weekends. But now, among the locals, there are tourists arriving with their cameras and beers, looking for "the authentic experience." Some picoteros have started charging them $10,000 COP to sit on the plastic chairs they rent. It is a business, but it has not lost its essence: the music is still the same, the dance is still the same, and the rum is still the same.

The Informal Hotspots

If you want to experience champeta in its natural habitat, forget about the clubs in the Centro. Here are the places where it really plays:

• Plaza de la Trinidad (Getsemaní): The epicenter of the alternative night. On weekends, from 9 pm, it fills with picós, beer vendors, and dancers. It is safe if you stay in the lit area and do not carry visible valuables. Price: a beer costs about $4,000 COP, a bottle of rum $30,000 COP.
• Corner of 31st Street with Calle de la Media Luna (Getsemaní): An abandoned warehouse that turns into a street club on Saturdays. The picó is called "El Rey de los Bajos" and plays from 10 pm to 4 am. There is no bathroom, but there is a man selling arepas de huevo for $3,000 COP.
• Parque de Torices: In the Torices neighborhood, 15 minutes by bus from the Centro (Torices route, $2,500 COP). On Sunday afternoons there is "sun champeta": picós from 2 pm, entire families dancing, and a more relaxed atmosphere. Ideal for those who want to see champeta without the nighttime chaos.
• Warehouse "El Sabor de Mi Tierra" (Olaya Herrera): A former fish warehouse turned into a dance hall on Fridays. There is no sign; you only know it because of the light and music. Ask for "donde Juancho" at Calle 5 with Carrera 12. Entry costs $5,000 COP, includes one beer.
• Plaza de San Felipe (behind the Castle): On Saturdays, a group of picoteros gathers in this small square. It is less known than Getsemaní, but more authentic. Arrive before 11 pm because it gets crowded and hard to move around.

Contrast with Mainstream Clubs

The clubs in the Centro Histórico, like the famous "Café del Mar" at the Baluarte de Santo Domingo, offer champeta but in a "for tourists" version. There they play the most commercial hits (Mr. Black, Kevin Florez) and the atmosphere is more of a show than a real party. People dress up, bottles of whisky cost $200,000 COP, and you have to pay a cover charge (from $30,000 COP). The dancers are hired; they are not people from the neighborhood who came to sweat it out.

In contrast, on the street, champeta is democratic. It does not matter if you come in flip-flops or high heels, if you know how to dance or not. People invite you, teach you the steps, pass you the rum. "Over at Café del Mar they play champeta but they don't know what it is," a 50-year-old woman who was dancing alone in Plaza de la Trinidad told me one night, moving her hips as if she were 20. "Here you can feel it. Here the champeta is real."

Interviews with Residents: Why Champeta is More Than Music

Some might say champeta is just noise. But for Cartageneros from the popular neighborhoods, it is identity. "When champeta plays, I remember my grandmother," José, a 34-year-old mototaxi driver, told me as he waited for passengers at the Transport Terminal. "She used to wash clothes for tourists, and when she got home, she would turn on the picó and dance with my grandfather. It was her moment of happiness."

María, a coconut candy vendor at Plaza de los Coches, explained: "Champeta is resistance. For years they told us we were less, that our music was ugly. But we kept dancing. Now tourists come looking for it. That fills me with pride."

And Andrés, a 22-year-old engineering student who is a picotero on weekends, summed it up: "Champeta is my life. When I turn on the picó, I see people happy. They forget their problems, they hug, they laugh. Money can't buy that."

Tips for the Traveler

If you want to experience the authentic night of Cartagena, here are practical recommendations based on my experience and that of locals who know the terrain well:

• Safety: The neighborhoods where street champeta plays are safe if you are careful. Do not wear jewelry, do not take out your phone constantly, and walk in groups. In Getsemaní, the Plaza de la Trinidad area is calm, but stay away from dark streets after 1 am. In Torices and Olaya Herrera, go with a local if possible. Do not accept drinks from strangers.
• Transportation: After 11 pm, buses stop running. Use Uber or Didi (they work well in Cartagena, though sometimes they take a while). A trip from the Centro to Torices costs about $15,000 COP. There are also mototaxis, but negotiate the price before getting on (do not pay more than $10,000 COP for a short trip).
• Dress code: Light clothing, comfortable shoes. Women can wear light dresses, men t-shirts and shorts. Do not wear sandals if you plan to dance, as the floor may be wet or dirty.
• Cash: Street picós do not accept cards. Bring small bills ($5,000, $10,000, $20,000 COP) to pay for beers, tips, or entry to the warehouses.
• Language: Although English is spoken in tourist areas, only Spanish is spoken in popular neighborhoods. Learn basic phrases: "¿Cuánto vale?", "¿Dónde hay un picó?", "Baila conmigo." Locals appreciate the effort.
• Timing: Street champeta starts late. Picós usually turn on between 9 and 10 pm, but the party gets good after 11 pm. On Sundays, sun champeta starts at 2 pm and ends at dusk.
• Respect: Do not be the tourist who arrives with a camera to film without asking permission. Ask before filming, dance if invited, and do not criticize the music. Champeta is sacred to those who live it.

Fun Fact: The Power of the Picó

A fact few know: picós are not just sound systems. They are works of art. Each picotero decorates their equipment with colored lights, paintings of Caribbean landscapes, and sometimes even figures of saints. The most famous in Cartagena is "El Picó de la 21," which is over 40 years old and weighs half a ton. Its owner, Don Ramiro, inherited it from his father and has restored it with parts brought from Panama. "This picó has played at weddings, funerals, everything. It is part of the family," he told me as he cleaned the speakers with a cloth.

So now you know: if you want to discover the real Cartagena, the one that does not appear in tourist guides, look for a picó, sit on a plastic chair, order a nice cold beer, and let yourself be carried away by champeta. You do not need anything else. The night takes care of the rest.