Vegan vs. Traditional Cartagena: Where to Eat 'Heart of Palm Ceviche' That Isn't a Sacrilege

The vegan tourist's dilemma in the land of fried pork

You arrive in Cartagena, the sun hits your face, the smell of the sea envelops you, and the first thing you see is a cart selling meat carimañolas and a sign screaming "Fried pork, fried pork!". If you are vegan, your stomach knots up. How the hell are you going to try coastal food without betraying your principles? The answer, in May 2026, is easier than you think. But there is a catch: not everything that glitters is vegan, and not everything vegan deserves to be called coastal food.

Here I will tell you the uncomfortable truth: there are vegan versions that are a delicacy and others that are a sin against tradition. And in the middle, a restaurant in Getsemaní that achieved the impossible: making a heart of palm ceviche that offends neither the fish nor your conscience. Let's break it down.

Comparison table: Vegan vs. Traditional in three key dishes

Before going into detail, a quick look at how these versions compare in flavor, texture, price, and authenticity. This is what I found touring the city in recent months:

• Ceviche: Traditional (fresh fish, lime, onion, cilantro) vs. Vegan (heart of palm, green mango, lime, chili). Price: Traditional from $25,000 COP, Vegan from $22,000 COP. Flavor: Traditional is acidic and fresh; the vegan surprises with its fibrous texture that mimics fish.
• Egg arepa: Traditional (fried corn arepa, chicken egg, shredded meat) vs. Vegan (corn arepa, flaxseed "egg", textured soy protein). Price: Traditional $5,000 COP, Vegan $8,000 COP. Flavor: Traditional is crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside; the vegan is drier but manages to deceive if accompanied by vegan suero.
• Coconut rice: Traditional (rice, grated coconut, coconut milk, sugar, raisins) vs. Vegan (rice, grated coconut, coconut milk, panela, no cow's milk). Price: Traditional $10,000 COP, Vegan $12,000 COP. Flavor: Traditional is sweet and creamy; the vegan is equally sweet, but less unctuous.

Round 1: Fish ceviche vs. Heart of palm ceviche

Traditional ceviche: the king of the market

On any corner of Cartagena, from the Bazurto Market to the Plaza de la Aduana, you find fresh fish ceviche. The recipe is simple: white fish (snapper or grouper) cut into cubes, bathed in lime, purple onion in feathers, fresh cilantro, and a touch of sweet chili. It is served cold, in a glass or with patacones. The flavor is pure marine acid, and the texture of the fish "cooks" with the lime, remaining firm but soft. A well-made ceviche is an experience that defines Cartagena.

Pros: Authentic flavor, fresh, cheap, available everywhere. Cons: Not suitable for vegans, obviously. And if the fish is not fresh, it can be a risk.

Vegan heart of palm ceviche: the impostor that works

Heart of palm is a palm stem that, when cut into thin slices, has a texture that dangerously resembles shredded fish. Vegan restaurants in Cartagena, like the one I will tell you about later, marinate it with lime, grated green mango, onion, and sometimes add avocado for creaminess. The trick is in the resting time: if you leave it in lime for 15 minutes, the heart of palm softens and absorbs the flavors.

Does it deceive? Yes, but not entirely. The first time I tried it, I thought: "This is not fish, but it's tasty." The fibrous texture works, but it lacks that sea flavor that only fish gives. However, if you add a touch of nori seaweed or dried mushroom powder (as some places do), it comes quite close.

Pros: Convincing texture, fresh, low in calories, suitable for vegans. Cons: Doesn't taste like the sea, can be bland if not seasoned well. Price: in vegan restaurants in Getsemaní, it's around $25,000 COP.

Fun fact: The heart of palm used in Cartagena comes from the department of Córdoba, where it is grown on sustainable farms. It's not a gringo invention, it's a Colombian product.

Round 2: Traditional egg arepa vs. Vegan egg arepa

The original egg arepa: the breakfast of the gods

The egg arepa is an emblem of the Caribbean coast. A white corn arepa is fried, opened, a raw egg and shredded meat (or cheese) are added, and it is fried again until the egg is cooked and the arepa is crispy. On the street, at stalls like those in the Plaza de la Trinidad in Getsemaní, they sell them for $5,000 COP each. The first bite is an explosion of fat, corn, and protein. It's dirty, it's delicious, it's Cartagena.

Pros: Intense flavor, crispy and juicy texture, cheap. Cons: Very high in calories, not vegan, and if not well fried, it can be greasy.

The vegan egg arepa: the street experiment

I did a blind test with two local friends. We bought a vegan arepa from a stall on Calle Media Luna that promised to be "just like it." The vegan version uses a flaxseed "egg" (ground flaxseeds mixed with water, which form a gel) and textured soy protein instead of meat. The arepa is fried the same way, but the filling is drier. In the test, one of my friends said: "This is not an egg arepa, it's something else." The other, who is more open-minded, commented: "If you hadn't told me, I wouldn't have noticed, but it lacks the fat of the egg."

The texture of the flaxseed "egg" is gelatinous, not fluffy like a real egg. And the soy protein absorbs the oil but doesn't give that feeling of juiciness. Does it work? For a vegan who misses the flavor, yes. For a traditional local, it's a sacrilege.

Pros: Vegan option on the street, interesting texture, healthier. Cons: Doesn't fully deceive, more expensive ($8,000 COP), hard to find outside Getsemaní.

Fun fact: Flaxseed as an egg substitute is common in baking, but in fried foods it loses its charm. The best vegan chefs in the city add a touch of turmeric to give it a yellow color, but the flavor doesn't change.

Round 3: Traditional coconut rice vs. Vegan

Authentic coconut rice: the sweet that captivates

Coastal coconut rice is made with rice, grated coconut, coconut milk, brown sugar, raisins, and sometimes cloves. It is cooked over low heat until the rice absorbs all the liquid and becomes creamy, almost like a dessert. In restaurants like La Cevichería or the famous Donde Magola, it is served as a side dish for fried fish. The flavor is sweet, with notes of toasted coconut and a sticky texture that makes you want more.

Pros: Naturally sweet, creamy, perfect with fish. Cons: It contains cow's milk in some recipes (although most use only coconut milk), high in calories.

Vegan coconut rice: does it lose its essence?

The vegan version eliminates cow's milk and uses only coconut milk, sometimes thickened with a bit of corn flour or grated green plantain. The result is similar in flavor, but less unctuous. Coconut milk alone doesn't have the same fat as cow's milk, so the rice is looser. However, if the cook puts love into it and uses fresh grated coconut, the difference is minimal.

I tried a version at a vegan restaurant near the Torre del Reloj and, honestly, I liked it more than the traditional one because it wasn't as cloying. But a coastal friend told me: "This is coconut rice for tourists, not for us."

Pros: Less fat, equally sweet, suitable for vegans. Cons: Less creamy texture, can be drier. Price: $12,000 COP in vegan restaurants.

Fun fact: The traditional coconut rice of Cartagena does not contain cow's milk in its original recipe. That is a modern addition. So the vegan version, in theory, is more authentic than the one sold in many "traditional" restaurants.

Absolute winner: 'Sabor Costeño Vegano' in Getsemaní

After trying street and restaurant versions, I arrived at Sabor Costeño Vegano, a small place on Calle de la Media Luna, in the heart of Getsemaní. This place is not an improvised stall: it has a menu written on a blackboard, wooden tables, and a chef who studied traditional cooking before becoming vegan. The result? Dishes that respect the coastal essence without using animal products.

I tried their vegan-traditional tasting menu, which includes:

• Heart of palm ceviche with green mango: The best I've tried. They use fresh heart of palm, marinate it with lime, sweet chili, and add pieces of green mango that give it an acidic touch reminiscent of fish. The texture is firm, not slimy. Price: $28,000 COP.
• Vegan egg arepa: Here the "egg" is flaxseed but mixed with green plantain puree, which gives it a fluffier texture. The soy protein is seasoned with cumin and garlic, and the arepa is crispy on the outside, soft on the inside. It deceives 80% of diners, according to the chef. Price: $10,000 COP.
• Vegan coconut rice:

Introduction to the topic

Heart of palm ceviche has gained popularity in Cartagena, especially among those seeking vegan options without sacrificing flavor. This dish is not only a delight for the palate but also encapsulates the fusion of coastal tradition with gastronomic modernity. In the city, traditional ceviche, made with fresh fish, is served in most restaurants, while vegan versions are emerging on the local culinary scene, offering a fresh and healthy alternative.

The history of ceviche on the Caribbean coast of Colombia is rich and diverse, with indigenous, African, and Spanish influences. By opting for a heart of palm ceviche, you not only enjoy an innovative dish but also celebrate the region's biodiversity and the use of local ingredients.

For those looking to enjoy this delicacy, it is essential to know some outstanding places where you can find both heart of palm ceviche and traditional versions, ensuring a complete culinary experience in Cartagena.

Analysis by option (pros and cons)

When it comes to enjoying heart of palm ceviche in Cartagena, vegan and traditional options offer very different experiences. Here I break down the pros and cons of each, so you can choose the one that best suits your palate and preferences.

• Authenticity: The experience of trying fresh fish ceviche, prepared with local ingredients, is incomparable. The freshness of the Caribbean Sea is reflected in every bite.
• Flavor: The combination of fish, lime, onion, and chili creates a flavor profile that is difficult to replicate in vegan versions.

Cons:

• Availability: You may find limited options for those seeking alternatives without seafood, which could be an inconvenience for strict vegans.
• Environmental impact: Fish consumption can have a negative effect on ocean sustainability, something to consider if you are environmentally conscious.

Vegan Ceviche

Pros:

• Creativity: Chefs are constantly innovating, using ingredients like heart of palm, mango, and avocado to create ceviches that are equally exciting and tasty.
• Accessibility: Vegan options are increasingly common in Cartagena, making it easier to find a dish that meets dietary restrictions.

Cons:

• Lack of marine flavor: Although vegan ceviche can be delicious, some purists feel it doesn't capture the taste of the sea in the same way as its traditional counterpart.
• Limited variety: Not all restaurants offer heart of palm ceviche, so the search may require some research.

In summary, both traditional and vegan ceviche have their advantages and disadvantages. The choice depends on your personal preferences and what you are looking for in your culinary experience in Cartagena.