Cartagena: A Feast Between Walls and Sea
In Cartagena, food isn't just eaten; it's lived. It's the whisper of waves accompanying each bite of fresh fish, the echo of footsteps on centuries-old cobblestones on the way to dinner, the contrast between the salty breeze and the warmth of a freshly served sancocho. This city, guardian of pirate and conqueror stories, has woven its own gastronomic narrative: one where coconut rice, plantain, and fish from the bay are the protagonists of a never-ending celebration. But today, that tradition has dressed up. Between the colorful colonial houses and terraces with Caribbean views, culinary temples have emerged that respect the essence while playing with it, that honor the past while looking to the future. This guide is your map to get lost—and find yourself—in that maze of flavors.
The Essentials: Where Tradition Reinvents Itself
We start in the heart of Getsemaní, at La Cevichería (Calle Stuart 7). More than a restaurant, it's an institution. Its mixed ceviche—with tiger's milk, sweet potato, and corn—is a lesson in balance. Average price: $45,000-$80,000 COP. Open from 12:00 to 23:00. Reserve in advance; its fame fills every table.
A few blocks away, in the Historic Center, Carmen (Calle del Curato 36-142) elevates local cuisine to art. Try the 'Caribeñito', a tribute in small format with lobster, coconut rice, and patacón. It's a high cuisine experience (average: $120,000-$200,000 COP). Dinner from 19:00 to 23:00. Reservation required.
For seafood with a view, Club de Pesca (Baluarte de San Sebastián, Manga) is historic. Its seafood soup and grilled snapper filet are classics. Family atmosphere, medium-high prices ($70,000-$130,000 COP). Open every day for lunch and dinner.
World Flavors with a Cartagenero Accent
Globalization arrived with its own stamp. At Marea by Rausch (Plaza de la Aduana), the Rausch brothers fuse international techniques with local products. Don't miss the seared tuna with plantain crisp. High prices ($150,000-$250,000 COP). Perfect for a special occasion.
El Gobernador by Juan Felipe Camargo (Hotel Hyatt Regency) offers author cuisine. Its 'False Crab'—with heart of palm—is ingenious. Average: $100,000-$180,000 COP. Reserve for dinner.
Italian? Donde Francesco (Calle de la Factoría 36-101) makes fresh pasta. The lobster ravioli is sublime. Medium prices ($60,000-$110,000 COP). Romantic atmosphere in a colonial courtyard.
Authentic and Street Experiences
Not everything is luxury. At La Mulata (Calle Quero 9-58), the daily menu ($25,000-$40,000 COP) offers casabe, fried fish, and coconut rice. Arrive early; it doesn't accept reservations.
For stuffed arepas, Arepa Paisa en la Calle del Arsenal (Getsemaní) is a mandatory stop. The one with egg and ground meat costs $8,000 COP. Pure street food.
Restaurante Coroncoro (Bocagrande) is family-friendly and economical ($20,000-$35,000 COP). Try the fish sancocho. Open from 11:00 to 22:00.
Terrazas, Cocktails, and Sunsets
The Caribbean calls for drinks. Alquímico (Calle del Colegio 34-24) is a clandestine bar in a mansion. Its cocktails with tropical fruits are legendary. High prices ($40,000-$70,000 per drink). Opens from 18:00.
At Cafe del Mar (Baluarte de Santo Domingo), the sunset is the main dish. Ideal for a cocktail at sunset. High prices, but the view is worth it.
Mirador Gastro Bar (Hotel Movich) offers panoramic views and creative tapas. Perfect for an aperitif.
Recommendations by Cuisine Type and Budget
- High cuisine: Carmen, Marea by Rausch. High budget.
- Seafood and fish: La Cevichería, Club de Pesca. Medium-high.
- Traditional economical cuisine: La Mulata, Coroncoro. Low-medium.
- Bar experiences: Alquímico, Cafe del Mar. Medium-high.
- Fusion and international: Donde Francesco, El Gobernador. Medium-high.
Practical Tips: Reservations, Hours, and More
Cartagena respects its rhythms. The most exclusive restaurants require reservations days—sometimes weeks—in advance, especially in high season (December to March). Call or use their websites. Typical hours are: lunch 12:00-15:00, dinner 19:00-23:00. Many places close on Mondays. Carry cash for the most popular spots; although most accept cards, some small ones only take cash. Dress cool, but remember: some high-end restaurants have an elegant casual dress code. And above all, arrive hungry and without rush; here, eating is a ritual.
To Close the Feast
Cartagena offers you a menu where every bite tells a story—of sea, land, resistance, and celebration. From the freshest ceviche to the most comforting sancocho, this city invites you to sit at its table. Don't just come to see its colors; come to taste them. Because here, the flavor of the Caribbean isn't just served on a plate; it's lived in every corner. Book your table at one of these amazing restaurants and live a unique gastronomic experience.
