San Fernando: the Last Neighborhood in Cali Where They Still Play Rana on the Street

San Fernando: the Last Neighborhood in Cali Where They Still Play Rana on the Street

There is a sound that can still be heard on Sundays in San Fernando, between Carrera 34 and Calle 5: the dry thud of a metal token against a wooden board, followed by laughter, complaints, and the jingle of coins falling into the mouths. It is not a casino machine or a video game. It is rana, a traditional game that survives in Cali almost like a miracle, and that in this neighborhood of low houses and leafy trees found its last street refuge. In May 2026, as the city modernizes, here the tradition remains intact, with boards propped against lampposts and players who have kept their pulse for decades.

Origin of the Rana Game in Cali

Rana arrived in Colombia with Spanish immigrants, but in Cali it found fertile ground. Unlike other regions where it is played in taverns or clubs, here it took over the streets. Grandparents tell that in the 1950s, when San Fernando was a neighborhood of pastures and mango trees, sugarcane workers improvised boards with wooden crates and tokens made from nuts. The objective has always been the same: throw a token from a distance of three meters and make it fall into one of the nine numbered mouths, each with a score. The most difficult mouth, the center one, is worth 50 points and is known as "la rana".

Over time, the game became an excuse for conversation, friendly betting, and ice-cold beer. In San Fernando, unlike other neighborhoods like El Peñón or Granada, rana was never locked indoors. It stayed on the street, under the shade of the saman trees, and that made it unique.

Chronicle of a Sunday Match at Calle 5 with Carrera 34

It is 10 in the morning on any given Sunday. On the corner of Calle 5 with Carrera 34, Don Álvaro, 72, has already set up his board. The board is made of cedar, one meter high by 80 centimeters wide, and has the nine numbered mouths from 1 to 9, plus a small bell that rings when the token falls into the center mouth. Next to it, a styrofoam cooler with Águila Light beer and Colombiana sodas. No signs, no advertising. The neighbors know that's where the game is played.

The match starts with four players: Don Álvaro, his grandson Mateo (14 years old), Don Jairo (a retired accountant), and Doña Lucía, who is the only woman who dares to compete. Each one throws three tokens per turn. The tokens are round, about 5 centimeters in diameter, made of stainless steel. Don Álvaro calls them "the discs". The one with the most points at the end of five rounds wins the pot: a sum of 10,000 pesos per player, which is split between the winner and whoever makes "rana" (gets a token in the center mouth).

Mateo is the most daring. He throws hard, but the token bounces off the edge of mouth 5 and flies away. Don Jairo, on the other hand, is methodical: he calculates the distance, adjusts his wrist, and releases gently. His token falls straight into mouth 9, worth 10 points. Doña Lucía claps and says, "That's having a surgeon's pulse."

What makes this match special is not just the game, but the audience. Neighbors who come out to buy bread stop by. A couple of Australian tourists, passing by on their way to Parque del Perro, ask if they can play. Don Álvaro lends them three tokens and explains the rules in basic but effective English. The Australians miss all three throws, but they laugh and take a picture. "This is real Cali," one says.

Profiles of the 'Rachados' (Expert Players)

In San Fernando, a "rachado" is not just someone who wins often. It is a character with a nickname, a story, and their own style. Here are three of the most respected ones:

Don Álvaro "El Manco"

Don Álvaro lost the fine mobility of his right hand after an accident at a sugar mill in the 80s. But he learned to throw with his left, and today he is the owner of the oldest board in the neighborhood. His technique is slow, almost zen. He never celebrates when he makes rana; he just nods and collects his bet. He says the secret is not in the strength, but in "letting go of the token when the heart is calm." He is 72 years old and has been playing since he was 12.

Doña Lucía "La Ficha Fina"

At 58, Lucía is the only woman who regularly competes in street matches. She started playing 20 years ago, when her husband took her to a match and she, by accident, made three ranas in a row. She hasn't stopped since. Her technique is precise: she throws with a bent wrist and the token travels straight, without spinning. The men respect her, although some still call her "mija" and she replies with "¿mijo? Mijo the one who loses."

Don Jairo "El Calculador"

Jairo is a public accountant and applies statistics to every throw. He carries a notebook where he records his hits and misses for each mouth. He knows that mouth 3 (worth 15 points) has a 40% margin of error, while mouth 1 (5 points) is the easiest. His goal is not to make rana, but to accumulate consistent points. "Rana is luck, but winning is strategy," he says. He is 65 years old and has never made a rana in public, but he wins 70% of the matches.

How the Tokens and the Board Are Made

The rana board is not bought in a store. It is commissioned from local carpenters who know the exact measurements: 1 meter high, 80 cm wide, 10 cm deep. The wood must be cedar or oak, because it resists the sun and humidity of Cali. The mouths are numbered with white enamel paint, and the center mouth (the rana) is usually decorated with a red circle. The bell is installed behind, attached with a wire, and its sound must be clear but not shrill.

The tokens, on the other hand, are an art. They used to be made with old coins or tractor nuts, but today they are made with laser-cut stainless steel. A man known as "el Tuerca", who lives on Carrera 38 with Calle 8, produces them in his workshop. Each token weighs between 80 and 100 grams, and has a slightly beveled edge so it rolls less. Don Álvaro orders batches of 50 tokens every six months, because they get lost or scratched. "A new token is like a new car: you have to tame it," he says.

The cost of a handmade board is between 150,000 and 200,000 Colombian pesos (reference prices from May 2026). A set of 10 tokens costs around 30,000 pesos. There is no industrial production; everything is handmade.

Why San Fernando Keeps the Tradition Alive

San Fernando is a traditional middle-class neighborhood, founded in the 1940s. Unlike neighborhoods like El Ingenio or Ciudad Jardín, here the houses have front gardens and neighbors know each other by name. There are no gated communities or doormen with private security. The streets are the public space par excellence, and rana is an excuse to occupy them.

Furthermore, there is a network of "tablistas" who take turns setting up the boards on weekends. Don Álvaro is the coordinator: every Friday he posts in the neighborhood's WhatsApp group who will put up the board on Sunday. Sometimes there are two or three boards on different corners. The most popular one is on Calle 5 with Carrera 34, but they also play on Calle 7 with Carrera 30 and in the small square of the San Fernando Rey church.

Another reason is generational transmission. Grandparents teach their grandchildren, and although young people prefer video games, many like Mateo return to rana because it is a plan that doesn't require wifi or a battery. "It's like a video game but for real," says Mateo. "And you can also bet your Sunday."

Finally, there is local pride. In San Fernando they know they are the last neighborhood where rana is played on the street, and that makes them special. When someone proposes moving the matches to a community hall, the neighbors refuse. "Rana belongs to the street," says Don Álvaro. "If we lock it up, it dies."

What to Do in San Fernando Besides Rana

If you come to San Fernando to see rana, don't leave without exploring the neighborhood. Here are several plans that complement the visit:

• Parque del Perro: Just a 10-minute walk away, on Carrera 34 with Calle 5. It is the gastronomic epicenter of the area, with restaurants like El Cielo (Colombian fine dining) and La Pata e' Mula (fusion cuisine). On Sundays there is a crafts market.
• Iglesia San Fernando Rey: A neo-Gothic style building from the 1950s. The facade is exposed brick and it has a stained glass window depicting the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa. Open to the public Monday to Saturday from 8am to 12pm and 3pm to 6pm.
• Museo de la Rana (informal): At Don Álvaro's house, on Carrera 34 # 5-12, he has a collection of over 100 antique tokens, boards from the 1960s, and photos of historic matches. It is not an official museum, but if you ask respectfully, he will show you everything. No entrance fee, but voluntary contributions are accepted.
• Calle del Sabor: On Calle 5, between Carreras 32 and 36, there are several street food stalls selling empanadas de pipián, aborrajados, and cholados. Prices range from 3,000 to 8,000 pesos.

Where to Eat or Drink in San Fernando

The gastronomic offering in the neighborhood is varied and affordable. These are the places recommended by locals:

• La Terraza de San Fernando (Carrera 33 # 5-20): A family restaurant serving executive lunches Monday to Saturday for 15,000 pesos. On Sundays they offer bandeja paisa and sancocho de gallina. Open from 11am to 4pm.
• El Rincón de la Rana (Calle 5 # 34-10): It is not a restaurant, but the corner where Don Álvaro sets up the board. However, next to it there is a lady who sells empanadas and natural juices. The shredded beef empanadas are the best. They cost 2,500 pesos each.
• Café San Fernando (Carrera 34 # 5-50): A specialty coffee shop with beans from Cauca. They have filter coffee for 5,000 pesos and artisan pastries. The owner, Andrés, is a former rana player who puts a small board inside for customers. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 8am to 8pm.
• Helados y Más (Calle 7 # 33-15): An artisan ice cream parlor with flavors like lulo, maracuyá, and coffee. Single cones cost 4,000 pesos. Perfect for the Cali heat after a match.

For drinks, the most authentic thing is to buy a beer at the corner store (Don Ramiro's, on Carrera 34 with Calle 5) and sit down to watch the match. There are no tables, but there are concrete benches and good conversation.

How to Get There and Transportation

San Fernando is located in the southeast of Cali, about 15 minutes by car from downtown. Getting there is easy:

• By MIO (public transport): Take the "San Fernando" station on the T1 line (route P21A or P21B). From there, walk 5 minutes north on Carrera 34 to Calle 5. The fare is 2,800 pesos (2026).
• By taxi or Uber: From downtown, the trip costs between 8,000 and 12,000 pesos. From the north (Chipichape area), about 15,000 pesos. Ask to be dropped off at Carrera 34 with Calle 5.
• By private car: There is free street parking on Sundays, but be careful with restricted hours: Monday to Friday, 7am to 9am and 5pm to 7pm, parking is prohibited on Carrera 34. Use the church's private parking lot (Calle 7 # 33-20) for 5,000 pesos per hour.
• On foot from Parque del Perro: It is a 10-minute walk south on Carrera 34. It is a pleasant walk, with trees and old houses.

Local Tips

These tips will help you enjoy rana like a true caleño:

• Arrive early: Matches start around 9am on Sundays. By 11am there are already many people and it can be hard to get a turn to throw. If you arrive at 8:30am, you will see Don Álvaro setting up the board and you can chat with him.
• Bring cash: Bets are in cash, and empanadas and beers are paid for with small bills. In San Fernando there are no card machines on the corners. Withdraw 30,000 or 40,000 pesos from an ATM before arriving (the closest one is on Carrera 34 with Calle 7, in an Éxito Express).
• Dress cool: Cali is hot, and being on the street under the sun can be exhausting. Wear light clothing, a cap, and sunscreen. Bring a water bottle, although you can also buy mango juice at Don Ramiro's store for 2,000 pesos.
• Don't bet more than you can afford to lose: Bets are friendly, but some players take the competition very seriously. If you are a beginner, only bet 5,000 pesos per match. No one will look down on you if you say it's your first time.
• Ask before you throw: Each board has its own rules about the throwing distance and whether "picar" (bouncing) the token is allowed. Ask the board owner before your first turn. On Don Álvaro's board, the distance is exactly 3 meters and bouncing is not allowed.
• Respect the hierarchy: The "rachados" have priority to throw in decisive turns. If you see Don Álvaro or Don Jairo concentrating, do not interrupt. Wait for them to finish their turn to ask or congratulate.
• Social media etiquette: If you take photos or videos, ask first. Some players don't like being recorded. If they give you permission, tag @MalokalCali and use the hashtag #RanaSanFernando. This helps spread the tradition.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Much Does It Cost to Play a Game of Rana in San Fernando?

There is no fixed cost to play. The dynamic is that each player contributes 10,000 pesos to the pot, which is split between the winner of the match and whoever makes "rana" (gets the token in the center mouth). If you don't want to bet, you can ask Don Álvaro to lend you tokens to practice without betting, but it is good etiquette to buy a beer or leave a voluntary tip of 2,000 or 3,000 pesos.

Are There Fixed Schedules for the Games?

Yes, although there is no written rule. The main matches are on Sundays from 9am to 1pm, on the corner of Calle 5 with Carrera 34. Occasionally there are matches on Saturday afternoons, but they depend on the availability of Don Álvaro and other tablistas. It is recommended to check the neighborhood's WhatsApp group (ask at Café San Fernando) or follow the Instagram account @RanaSanFernandoCali, where they post updated schedules.

Can Children or Tourists Without Experience Play?

Absolutely. In fact, locals enjoy teaching beginners. Children can play as long as they are accompanied by an adult and do not interfere with the bets. Tourists are welcome; Don Álvaro has loaner tokens and explains the rules in Spanish and basic English. The only thing asked is respect: don't throw out of turn, don't touch the board without permission, and don't use offensive language if you lose.

San Fernando is a reminder that in Cali, traditions don't die out; they adapt. While the city grows upwards with glass buildings, down here, on the street, a metal token keeps searching for the rana's mouth. If you want to understand the soul of Cali, don't just go to Salsa or Parque de la Caña. Come to San Fernando on a Sunday, sit on a concrete bench, and watch how one generation passes the turn to the next. And if you feel like it, throw. The rana is always waiting.

Historical or Contextual Introduction

San Fernando is a neighborhood that reflects the essence of Cali and its playful history, where the game of rana has been part of the local culture for generations. This neighborhood, which has maintained its traditions despite urban changes, is a meeting point where neighbors gather, especially on Sundays, to enjoy this game that not only symbolizes fun, but also community unity.

The origins of rana date back to the colonial era, when inhabitants sought forms of entertainment and socialization. Over time, this game has become a symbol of Cali's identity, a legacy that new generations continue to treasure. In San Fernando, each rana match tells a story, from improvised championships to the teachings of grandparents to the younger ones about the rules and strategies of the game.

In addition to rana, San Fernando is a vibrant place where you can explore local gastronomy, enjoy live music, and meet its inhabitants, who are always willing to share an anecdote or advice on how to play better. This neighborhood is not only a space for play, but a place where the cultural memory of Cali is preserved.

On Sundays, the atmosphere fills with laughter and the characteristic sound of tokens clashing, creating a unique atmosphere that attracts both locals and visitors. The culture of the rana game in San Fernando is a reminder of the importance of tradition in a constantly changing world.