San Fernando: Secrets of Its Republican Houses

The Origin of the Neighborhood: When Cali Peeked into the 20th Century

San Fernando was not born as just another neighborhood. In the late 1920s, Cali was just beginning to stretch beyond its traditional center, and a group of wealthy families, liberal professionals, and successful merchants decided to build their homes in what were then pastures south of the city. The result was a planned urban expansion, with streets wide for the era, generous sidewalks, and architecture that looked towards Europe without losing the tropics. The republican houses of San Fernando — built between 1920 and 1940 — are the testimony of a Cali that wanted to be modern without renouncing tradition. Today, in May 2026, walking through its blocks between Calles 5 and 9, and Carreras 34 and 38, is like touring an open-air museum, even though many passersby walk by without looking up.

What makes San Fernando unique is not just the number of republican houses still standing — which are many — but the state of conservation of several of them. While other historic neighborhoods in Cali, such as El Peñón or Granada, were swallowed by real estate speculation and apartment buildings, San Fernando managed to maintain a low-rise residential character. Of course, not everything is perfect: there are abandoned houses, others modified without criteria, and some that were demolished to make way for parking lots or gated communities. But the ones that survive tell a story worth knowing in detail.

The 5 Best-Preserved Republican Houses in the Quadrant

So you don't get lost in the attempt, I put together a walking route that covers the five republican houses that, in my opinion, are best preserved in the quadrant between Calles 5 and 9, Carreras 34 and 38. They are all viewable from the street — none are regularly open to the public, except for events — but their facades are already worth the walk. Bring a camera, a notebook, and, if you can, a hat: the Cali sun is unforgiving.

House at Calle 5 # 34-12

This is probably the most photographed in the neighborhood. Its two-story facade preserves the original cement moldings imitating stone, with a curved pediment over the main door reminiscent of Italian villas from the early 1900s. The polished granite floors of the hallway are still visible, although access is restricted. The wrought iron balconies, with repeated floral motifs, are a perfect example of the craft of Cali's blacksmiths of the time. It is recommended to check schedules for any cultural events, as it is occasionally opened for exhibitions.

Corner House at Carrera 36 with Calle 7

It occupies an entire corner, which makes it even more imposing. It has a lookout on the second floor — a kind of square turret — that was common in republican houses to take advantage of the valley breezes. The facade combines smooth plaster with strips of exposed brick, a technique called "simulated ashlars" that fooled the eye into believing the house was made of stone. The polished granite floors of the exterior sidewalk are worn by decades of foot traffic, but the geometric designs are still distinguishable. The current owner, a retired doctor, has restored the wooden joinery with his own resources.

House at Calle 8 # 35-28

Less ostentatious than the previous ones, but with a special charm: it is a single story, with a large portico supported by cast iron Doric columns. That portico was the "reception area" where families waited for visitors without them entering the house. The wrought iron balconies here are simpler, with straight bars topped with spearheads. What makes it special is that it preserves the original front garden, with corozo palms and a water well that still works. The current owners, a couple of architects, bought it in 2018 and restored it respecting the original plans they found in the Historical Archive of Cali.

House at Carrera 37 # 6-50

This house has a particular history: it was the residence of a German doctor who arrived in Cali in the 1930s fleeing the war. Therefore, its architecture mixes republican elements with touches of the Art Deco that was becoming fashionable. The facade moldings are more stylized, with straight lines and stepped shapes, and the polished granite floors inside — visible from the window — have a checkerboard design. The wrought iron balconies are minimalist, almost without adornment. It is one of the few houses that has a plaque with the year of construction: 1935.

House at Calle 9 # 34-80

The largest on the route, with three floors and an interior patio that today functions as an event restaurant. The facade is a display of moldings: garlands, scrolls, rosettes, and a toothed cornice that runs the entire perimeter. The polished granite floors of the hallway are impeccable, restored five years ago. The wrought iron balconies have the peculiarity of including intertwined initials — those of the original family — on the central railing. The restaurant that operates there is called "La Casa de la 9" and is open Tuesday to Sunday, 12pm-10pm, with dishes starting at $35,000 COP. It is the only opportunity to enter one of these houses without being invited.

Unique Construction Elements: What Makes a Republican House Special

If you are going to do the tour, it is useful to know what to look for. It is not the same to walk past a pretty house as it is to understand why it is pretty. Here I detail the three elements that define the republican architecture of San Fernando and that separate the original houses from modern imitations.

Facade Moldings

Moldings are the hallmark of the republican house. Handmade with cement and sand, they imitated carved stone that could not be afforded. In San Fernando, the most common are those that frame doors and windows, with semicircular arch shapes or straight lintels decorated with scrolls. Some houses have "dust guards" — a horizontal molding that runs over the windows — with dentils or Greek frets. Look at the house at Calle 5 # 34-12: its curved pediment has a tympanum with an acanthus leaf relief, a detail that only an expert plasterer could make. Over time, many moldings have fallen off or been covered with thick paint; the best-preserved houses keep them exposed, with their original gray color or painted warm white.

Polished Granite Floors

Polished granite — a mixture of cement, sand, and stone dust that was smoothed until shiny — was the standard of luxury at the time. In San Fernando, the hallways and interior corridors usually have them, with geometric designs: squares, rhombuses, eight-pointed stars. The house at Carrera 37 # 6-50 has a black and white checkerboard pattern that still looks sharp. The problem is that granite scratches easily and many owners have covered it with modern tile or ceramic. If you see an original granite floor, you are seeing artisan work that required weeks of hand polishing.

Wrought Iron Balconies

The balconies are not just decorative: they were the place where families sat to watch life go by. In San Fernando, there are two types: those with straight railings topped with spearheads (like at Calle 8 # 35-28) and those with volutes and scrolls (like at Calle 5 # 34-12). All were made by local blacksmiths who worked the iron hot, hammering each curve by hand. A detail few notice: the bases of the balconies often have a cast iron plate with the blacksmith's name or the date. At the house at Calle 9 # 34-80, if you lean in, you will see a plaque that says "Herrería El Águila, 1937".

Interview with a Longtime Resident: Don Héctor and the Restoration of His House

Don Héctor Londoño is 78 years old and lives in the same house in San Fernando where he was born. He is a retired economist and, since 1995, has dedicated a good part of his time and pension to restoring the property he inherited from his parents. I found him one Saturday morning, watering the gardenias in the front garden, and he agreed to tell me his story.

"My dad bought this house in 1942. He was a lawyer and came from Popayán. The house was already built since 1935, but he made some improvements: he put in the granite floor in the dining room and had the iron balconies made by a blacksmith from Carrera 15. When I was a child, this was all wilderness: there were no buildings, only houses and pastures. The neighbors were all professionals, doctors, engineers. The doors were never locked."

The restoration was not easy. "In the 80s, the house deteriorated. The roof leaked, the moldings were falling to pieces, and the balconies were rusty. My children told me to sell it, that it was too much money. But I couldn't. This house is part of me. I started with the roof: I replaced the clay tiles with new ones made from the same mold. Then, I called a plasterer from Popayán who knew how to work moldings by hand. It cost me an arm and a leg, but they ended up just like the originals."

Don Héctor points to the polished granite floors of the hallway: "I cleaned these myself with muriatic acid and a polisher. It took me three weekends. But look how they shine. People tell me why I don't put down tile, that it's easier. But this is history. If you step on this floor, you are stepping on the same floor my mother stepped on when she arrived as a bride."

I ask him about the future: "My children don't want the house. They say it's too much responsibility. I don't know what will happen when I'm gone. I hope someone who will take care of it buys it. Because a house like this cannot be replaced. San Fernando is not what it used to be, but as long as there are people who value these facades, the memory of the neighborhood is not lost."

Conservation Regulations in Cali: What Protects San Fernando?

Not all is lost. Since 2012, Cali has had a Special Management and Protection Plan (PEMP) for the historic center, but San Fernando is not included in that category. However, the neighborhood has a partial protection status: it is classified as a "Sector of Urban Interest" in the Territorial Planning Plan (POT) in effect since 2014. This means that any intervention on the facades of houses built before 1950 must be reviewed by the Municipal Planning Secretariat. In theory, a republican house cannot be demolished without a study proving its conservation is unfeasible. In practice, many demolitions occur at night or on weekends, and by the time the authorities notice, there is already a hole in the block.

Additionally, there is the "Intervention Guide for the Architectural Heritage of Cali", published by the Mayor's Office in 2018, which recommends materials and techniques for restoring republican houses. For example, it specifies that moldings should be repaired with lime mortar and not Portland cement, that granite floors should be polished with soft abrasives, and that wrought iron balconies should be treated against oxidation with red lead and oil paint. The problem is that this guide is not mandatory, only suggested. Many owners opt for cheap and quick solutions that end up damaging the original character of the houses.

If you are interested in the topic, you can consult the "Inventory of Cultural Heritage Assets of the Municipality of Santiago de Cali", available on the website of the Secretary of Culture. There, the houses of San Fernando that have some level of protection are listed. They are not many: barely 23 in the entire neighborhood. The rest depend on the goodwill of their owners.

How to Get There and Transportation

Getting to San Fernando is simple. The neighborhood is 10 minutes by taxi from downtown Cali and 15 minutes from the south of the city. If you use public transportation, the bus routes that pass along Calle 5 (such as T47 or P21) drop you off at the corner of Carrera 34. You can also take the MIO: the nearest station is "San Fernando" at Calle 5 with Carrera 36, served by routes T1, T3, and T6. From there, walk south along Carrera 36 until you find the houses. If you come by car, the safest parking lot is at the San Fernando Plaza Shopping Center (Calle 5 # 36-100), with a rate of $3,000 COP per hour. The neighborhood streets are narrow and often full of parked cars, so it is better to move on foot.

The tour of the 5 houses takes between 1 and 2 hours, depending on how much you stop to look. I recommend doing it in the morning, before 10am, when the sun is not too strong and the facades receive frontal light. If you go on a weekend, the neighborhood is quieter and you can take photos without cars getting in the way.

Local Tips

• Bring water and sunscreen: San Fernando is flat, but the Cali sun is relentless. There aren't many stores in the quadrant, so buy water before you start.
• Greet the neighbors: People in the neighborhood are used to seeing curious visitors. If you see someone in the garden, say hello and ask them about the house. Many know the history and will tell you things that aren't in the books.
• Don't enter without permission: The houses are private property. Respect the gates and "Private Property" signs. If you want to see the interior, the only regular option is the restaurant "La Casa de la 9".
• Wear comfortable shoes: The sidewalks of San Fernando are concrete and some are broken. Sandals are not a good idea if you want to walk to the 5 houses without twisting an ankle.
• Check the weather: Cali has a rainy season between April and May, and between October and November. If it rains, the facades look more dramatic, but the granite floors become slippery.
• Bring binoculars: It sounds exaggerated, but the details of the moldings on second floors look better with a bit of magnification. Plus, you can spy on the wrought iron balconies without having to cross the street.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can You Enter the Republican Houses of San Fernando?

Most are private properties and are not open to the public. The only regular exception is the house at Calle 9 # 34-80, which operates as the restaurant "La Casa de la 9" and allows you to tour the hallway and interior patio if you reserve a table. Occasionally, some houses open for cultural events like "Night of the Museums" or temporary exhibitions; it is recommended to follow the social media of the Cali Secretary of Culture to find out about these dates.

How Much Does It Cost to Restore a Republican House in San Fernando?

Costs vary greatly depending on the condition of the house and the materials used. A complete facade restoration (moldings, granite floors, iron balconies, and joinery) can cost between 50 and 150 million Colombian pesos (reference prices as of May 2026). If you only want to repair a molding or polish a floor, the price drops to 5-10 million. It is important to hire professionals with experience in heritage, such as the plasterers from Popayán or the blacksmiths from downtown Cali, who charge more but guarantee a result faithful to the original.

What If I Want to Buy a Republican House in San Fernando?

Buying a republican house in San Fernando is possible, but you must consider the urban planning restrictions. The POT requires that any modification to the facade be approved by the Municipal Planning Office, and if the house is classified as a Cultural Heritage Asset, the restrictions are even greater. Sale prices range between 800 million and 2.5 billion pesos, depending on the size and state of conservation. Before buying, it is recommended to hire an architect specialized in heritage to evaluate the property and the restoration costs. It is also a good idea to talk to the neighbors to learn about the environment and potential limitations.

Historical or Contextual Introduction

San Fernando was formed during a period of transition for Cali, when the city began to expand beyond its traditional core. This neighborhood, which came to life in the 1920s, reflects the republican architecture of the era, a style characterized by its ornamental details and the mix of European influences. The houses of San Fernando are witnesses to the history of a city that sought to modernize while maintaining its cultural identity.

In its early days, San Fernando was a refuge for middle and upper-class families, who sought to get away from the hustle and bustle of the center. This space became a meeting place for intellectuals and artists, which contributed to its bohemian and cultural atmosphere. Today, walking through its streets is like traveling back in time, where each house tells a story worth discovering.

It is important to mention that San Fernando is not only a neighborhood of old houses, but also a cultural center that houses art galleries, cafes, and small shops that have kept the essence of the place alive. When exploring San Fernando, you not only observe the architecture, but also the vibrant daily life of its inhabitants and the legacy they have built over the years.

What to Do

Café La Palma

This café is a meeting point for lovers of good coffee. La Palma not only offers a variety of single-origin coffees but also promotes the coffee culture of the region. Insider Tip: Order a filtered coffee and accompany it with a slice of their famous yuca cake, you won't regret it!

Casa de la Cultura

A space that houses local art exhibitions and cultural events. Casa de la Cultura is ideal for understanding the identity of Cali. Insider Tip: Check their events calendar, as they frequently organize talks and workshops that allow for a deeper immersion in the culture of the region.

Where to Eat or Drink

Restaurante La Pampa

This place is known for its grilled meat, a classic you can't miss. Additionally, the atmosphere is cozy and perfect for enjoying good conversation.

Insider Tip: Ask about the "Churrasco" of the day, which is usually a special recommendation from the chef. Accompany it with a glass of local red wine to enhance the flavors.

Café La Palma

An ideal spot for a break, with a menu that ranges from Colombian coffee to delicious desserts. It is perfect for learning a bit more about the country's coffee culture.

Insider Tip: Don't miss trying the "Filtered Coffee", it's a different experience that stands out for its authentic flavor. They often have live music events on weekends, so check the schedule.