San Antonio: The Historic Heart of Cali
On the hillside slopes, where cobblestone streets twist like gift ribbons, the San Antonio neighborhood holds the most authentic heartbeat of Cali. Here, among brightly painted colonial houses and balconies that seem to whisper stories, Christmas doesn't arrive with flashy lights, but with the echo of carols and the aroma of buñuelos floating from courtyards. It's December, and the neighborhood transforms into a living nativity scene, where every corner, every doorway becomes an altar for the novena. It's not just a religious tradition; it's the perfect pretext for the community to gather, for neighbors—those who greet each other every day—to share coffee, a hug, and the promise of a new year. San Antonio, with its white church watching from above, is the stage where Cali's Christmas is lived with a warmth that only the Cauca Valley knows how to give.
San Antonio Church: The Spiritual Meeting Point
San Antonio Church, built in 1747, is the religious epicenter of the neighborhood. With its white façade and bell tower overlooking the city, this colonial temple is where the most important novena masses and the traditional Rooster's Mass are held. Address: Carrera 10 #3-00, San Antonio Neighborhood, Cali. Website: arquidiocesisdecali.org/parroquia-san-antonio. Google Maps location: View on Google Maps. Novena schedules: 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. from December 16 to 24.
Unique Features of Valley-Style Novenas
If in other cities novenas are solemn, here they have the flavor of a party. The music isn't limited to traditional carols; the rhythms of salsa, currulao, and even cumbia sneak in, because in the Valley, faith is danced. Choirs don't just sing "A la nanita nana"; they improvise with guitars, maracas, and guacharacas, creating a symphony that's pure folklore. Prayers are interspersed with jokes and anecdotes, because solemnity blends with Valley joy. And there's a detail you won't find in Bogotá or Medellín: the "alborada," where at dawn on December 16th, bands of musicians parade through the streets waking the neighborhood with drums and trumpets, announcing that the novena has begun. It's a tradition that comes from coffee-growing towns, but here in Cali, it dresses in salsa.
Where and When to Celebrate in the Neighborhood
Novenas in San Antonio begin on December 16th and extend until Christmas Eve, with schedules from 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m., although some groups improvise until later. Key spots are the plaza in front of San Antonio Church, where every night entire families gather with chairs and tablecloths, and the patios of old houses on streets like Carrera 6 and Calle 3, where neighbors open their doors as if they were their own home.
Main Places to Experience the Novenas
- San Antonio Plaza: Public space in front of the church, ideal for families. Address: Carrera 10 at Calle 3, San Antonio Neighborhood.
- Colonial Houses on Carrera 6: Private patios that open their doors to the community. Some date back to the 18th century.
- Calle 3 corner with Carrera 8: Traditional gathering point for local choirs.
On weekends, especially Saturdays, the celebration extends with performances by local musical groups, such as the choirs of San Antonio Parish or Andean music ensembles. For visitors, we recommend arriving early, around 5:30 p.m., to find a good spot and enjoy the sunset over the city, which from here looks like a sea of twinkling lights.
Typical Food: Differences with Other Regions
In San Antonio, the novena isn't complete without a plate of buñuelos with natilla, but here they add the Valley touch: the buñuelos are fluffier, made with costeño cheese, and the natilla is flavored with panela and cinnamon, giving it an earthier taste than in other regions. You'll also find pipián empanadas, filled with potato and meat, bathed in a peanut sauce that's a local heritage. Unlike the Caribbean coast, where coconut rice dominates, or the Andes, where ajiaco is served, here the star is champús, a hot drink made of corn, fruits, and spices that's taken during prayers to warm the soul. And don't forget manjar blanco, a milk-based sweet distributed in small portions, like a sweet hug among neighbors. It's a cuisine that speaks of the Indigenous, African, and Spanish mix that defines the Valley.
Where to Try Traditional Food
- Panadería San Antonio: The best buñuelos in the neighborhood. Address: Calle 4 #5-23. Hours: 7:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
- Restaurante El Portal: Specializes in Valley cuisine. Address: Carrera 6 #2-45. Website: elportalcali.com.
- Street stalls in the plaza: Empanadas and champús during the novenas.
Special Events and Complementary Activities
In addition to daily novenas, San Antonio offers unique Christmas gems. On December 24th at 10:00 p.m., the "Rooster's Mass" takes place at San Antonio Church, followed by a street party with live music that goes on until dawn. On Sundays, the artisan market in the plaza fills with stalls where you can buy handmade decorations, such as ceramic nativity scenes or fique garlands, ideal for taking a piece of the tradition home.
Activities for the Whole Family
- Christmas craft workshops: Saturday mornings at the Community Action Board. Cost: $5,000 pesos.
- "Cali Patrimonio" guided tours: Explore the neighborhood's history. Reservations: calipatrimonio.org.
- Sunday artisan market: 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. in the plaza.
Frequently Asked Questions about Novenas in San Antonio
When do novenas start in San Antonio?
Novenas begin on December 16th and continue until December 24th, with schedules between 6:00 p.m. and 9:00 p.m. each night.
Do I have to pay to participate?
No, novenas are completely free and open to the public. Only some complementary activities like workshops have a cost.
What should I bring?
We recommend bringing a folding chair, a coat for the night, and a willingness to share with the community. You can also bring some food to share.
Is it safe to visit the San Antonio neighborhood?
Yes, during the Christmas season the neighborhood is very busy and there is police presence. We recommend visiting in groups and during novena hours.
In the end, the most valuable thing is the sense of community: seeing grandparents teaching carols to grandchildren, young people organizing chairs, everyone sharing the same faith and the same joy. Share your novena photos in San Antonio with the hashtag #NavidadEnCali.