The San Antonio You Don't See: Hidden Patios and Urban Gardens
If you live in San Antonio or pass by often, you surely know the Church, the Gato de Tejada, the Park, and the cobblestone streets full of bars and restaurants. But there is another San Antonio that almost no one sees, unless you are invited or you take the wrong alley. I'm talking about the community patios, the hidden gardens among old houses, and the seed swaps that happen every month. This is not a guide for tourists wanting a pretty picture. It's for you, who recently arrived in Cali or have been here a couple of years and want to feel that the neighborhood truly welcomes you.
Here I'll tell you how to find three patios open to the public, the story of how the Community Action Board rescued an abandoned garden on Calle 3, and how to participate in the seed swaps held on the third Saturday of each month. Plus, I'll give you a tip: there is a QR code hidden on the facade of a house on Cra 4 that leads to an audio guide recorded by neighbors over 70 years old. If you make it to the end, I'll leave you with a concrete plan for this Saturday.
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Map of 3 Community Patios Open to the Public
In San Antonio, patios are not just the backyard of the house. They are the heart of neighborhood life. Some are open to the public at fixed times, and others are activated with events. These three are the most accessible to visit without an appointment, though it's always best to arrive with respect and a willingness to share.
Abuela Celia's Patio (Cra 4 #2-15)
This is the most well-known among locals who have been in the neighborhood for years. Abuela Celia, a 78-year-old woman who has lived there since she was 12, opened her patio over a decade ago so neighbors could gather to plant and drink coffee. The patio has some coffee plants, a lemon tree, and a grapevine that provides shade. It is open on Saturdays from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m., though sometimes Abuela stays until 3:00 p.m. if there are visitors. There is no entrance fee, but if you wish, you can leave a plant or a bag of compost as a thank you. The coordinates are 3.4532° N, 76.5421° W (approximate, but at Cra 4 #2-15 you won't get lost).
The Garden Patio on Calle 3 (between Cra 5 and Cra 6)
This is the one the Community Action Board rescued. It is located on a lot that used to be a dump, behind a pink house. Today it has 12 raised beds with lettuce, chard, mint, and even a plantain tree. It is open on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. There are no guards or gates; just a wooden door that is almost always ajar. If it's closed, ring the bell at the house next door (the one with a sign that says "Empanadas for sale") and say you're going to the garden. The coordinates are 3.4518° N, 76.5409° W.
The House of Memory Patio (Cra 2 #1-45)
It's not a garden, but it is a community patio where gardening workshops and swaps are held. The House of Memory is a cultural space that has organized neighborhood events since 2018. The patio has a dry fountain and wooden benches where people sit to chat. It is open Monday to Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., and on Saturdays until 1:00 p.m. Admission is free. The coordinates are 3.4545° N, 76.5430° W.
The Story of How the Community Action Board Rescued an Abandoned Garden on Calle 3
In 2021, Calle 3 between Cra 5 and Cra 6 was a trouble spot. The lot where the garden now stands was full of rubble, broken bottles, and even an old refrigerator. Neighbors complained to the Community Action Board, but no one knew what to do. Until Doña Martha, a 65-year-old retired teacher, proposed cleaning it up and planting.
The Board, which at that time had 8 active members, asked the Mayor's office for permission to use the land as a community garden. The process took six months. Meanwhile, neighbors organized weekend clean-up days. At first, five people showed up. By the third clean-up, there were twenty. Doña Martha remembers that one Saturday in April 2022, after removing the last tire, a 17-year-old boy who lived next door said, "We can plant tomatoes here." And that's how it started.
Today, the garden has a drip irrigation system installed with donations, and it produces lettuce, onion, cilantro, and mint. Everything is distributed among the neighbors who care for the beds. Nothing is sold. The Community Action Board meets every first Tuesday of the month at the House of Memory to plan maintenance. If you want to join, you can go to those meetings or simply show up on a Saturday at 10:00 a.m. with gloves and a willingness to get your hands dirty.
A curious fact: at the back of the lot there is a large stone that neighbors call "the story stone." According to Doña Martha, the neighborhood elders used to sit there in the 1950s to tell stories. Now, on Saturdays, the children of the garden sit there to listen to the older folks while they water the plants.
Tips for Participating in Seed Swaps (Third Saturday of Each Month)
Since 2023, a seed swap has been organized on the third Saturday of each month at Abuela Celia's Patio. The dynamic is simple: you bring seeds you have saved from your plants, or small plants in nursery bags, and exchange them for others that interest you. No money is involved. The idea is to share and let the seeds travel from house to house.
- Bring seeds of things that grow well in Cali: The climate is warm and humid. Cilantro, basil, lettuce, cherry tomatoes, and flowers like sunflowers or marigolds work well. Avoid seeds from cold-climate plants, like strawberries or large-leaf lettuce, as they don't do well here.
- Pack the seeds in paper envelopes: No plastic bags. Use recycled paper envelopes or even newspaper. Write the name of the plant and the date you harvested them. If you don't know the exact name, say "herb" or "orange flower."
- Arrive early: The swap starts at 10:00 a.m., but by 11:00 a.m. the most popular seeds are already gone. If you arrive after 12:00 p.m., you might only find rue and mint (which are still useful).
- Don't be afraid to ask: The neighbors who go are very open. If you see someone with a plant you like, ask them how they care for it. Most will give you advice for free.
- Bring a potted plant if you don't have seeds: If you haven't harvested seeds, you can bring a small nursery plant. That can also be swapped. A succulent or a pothos cutting is always welcome.
The next swap in May 2026 falls on Saturday the 16th. Mark it on your calendar. The address is Cra 4 #2-15, Abuela Celia's Patio.
QR Code to an Audio Guide Recorded by Neighbors Over 70
On the facade of Abuela Celia's house, right next to the door, there is a QR code painted on a white ceramic plaque. It's not a sticker or paper; it's enameled, like a tile. If you scan it with your phone, it takes you to a simple webpage (no ads) with 12 audios recorded by San Antonio neighbors aged 70 to 92.
Each audio lasts between 2 and 5 minutes. The neighbors tell stories about what the neighborhood was like in the 1950s and 60s: where the first store was, how they bathed in the Cali River when the water was clean, what songs played at the Church parties. One of the audios, recorded by Don Pedro, 84, explains why the streets of San Antonio are shaped like a maze. He says it was to confuse thieves coming from downtown.
The audio guide has no maps or directions. It's just the voices of the elders talking, with the background noise of birds and cars. If you want to listen to it, go to Cra 4 #2-15, scan the code, and put on your headphones while you walk through the neighborhood. It's a way to get to know the San Antonio that doesn't appear in tourist guides.
A detail: the QR code was painted by a local artist named Carlos "el Mocho" in 2024. The ink is sun-resistant, but if you see it's blurry, wet it a little with water or wait for the shadow of the plant at the entrance to pass. Sometimes the midday light makes it unreadable.
How to Get There and Transportation
San Antonio is a 15-minute walk from downtown Cali. If you're coming from the north or south, the most practical option is the MIO. The nearest station is San Antonio (Troncal Central line), which drops you off at Calle 5 with Cra 2. From there, walk two blocks uphill and you're in the neighborhood. You can also take a taxi or Uber from anywhere in the city; the ride from downtown costs between 8,000 and 12,000 COP (reference prices from May 2026).
If you come by car, the safest parking is on Cra 5 with Calle 3 (there is a guarded lot that charges 4,000 COP per hour). The streets are cobblestone and narrow, so drive slowly. On weekends, there is more traffic due to the restaurants.
For those using bicycles, there are bike lanes on Calle 5 and Cra 2. You can lock your bike at public parking lots or on the railings of the San Antonio Church (with a lock, as thefts have occurred).
Where to Eat or Drink
After touring the patios and the garden, you'll surely be hungry. San Antonio is full of options, but not all are the ones you see on Instagram. Here are three places that the real locals frequent:
- La Casa de las Empanadas (Cra 5 #3-22): They sell beef, chicken, and cheese empanadas starting at 3,500 COP each. They are made to order and served with homemade hot sauce. Open Monday to Saturday from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
- El Sabor de la Abuela (Calle 3 #4-10): A typical Cali food restaurant. The daily special (bandeja paisa or chicken sancocho) costs 15,000 COP and includes a natural juice. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
- La Tienda de Don Lucho (Cra 4 #2-30): It's not a restaurant, it's a neighborhood store that sells cold beer (4,000 COP per bottle) and bags of chips. On Saturday afternoons, an impromptu gathering forms on the sidewalk. If you want to feel the local vibe, sit there for a while.
If you prefer something more elaborate, there are several "Instagrammable" restaurants on Calle 5, but prices are higher (dishes from 35,000 COP). For a tight budget, it's better to stick with the empanadas or the daily special.
Local Tips
- Greet the neighbors: In San Antonio, people greet each other even if they don't know each other. If you enter a patio or the garden, say "good morning" or "good afternoon." It's not mandatory, but it opens doors.
- Bring cash: Many food stalls and stores don't accept cards. There is an ATM on Cra 5 with Calle 2 (Banco de Bogotá), but it sometimes runs out of bills.
- Watch out for loose dogs: On the higher streets of the neighborhood, there are stray dogs. They are not aggressive, but if they see you running, they might chase you. Walk calmly and don't shout at them.
- The weather: Cali is hot all year round. Bring water, sunscreen, and a hat. The patios have shade, but the walks between them will make you sweat.
- Don't take photos without permission: In the community patios, people feel at home. Ask before taking a photo of someone or their garden. Most will say yes, but it's a matter of respect.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I Go to the Patios if I Don't Speak Spanish?
Yes, you can. At Abuela Celia's Patio and the Garden on Calle 3, there are neighbors who speak basic English, but it's not guaranteed. It's best to bring a translator on your phone or learn phrases like "can I come in?" and "thank you." People are friendly and will welcome you with gestures if necessary.
Do the Seed Swaps Have a Cost?
No, they are completely free. The rule is that you bring something to exchange, but if you don't have seeds or plants, you can still go and ask for advice. Some neighbors give away cuttings if they see you're interested. There is no pressure to buy anything.
What Do I Do if the QR Code Doesn't Work?
If the code is damaged or won't scan, ask at the House of Memory (Cra 2 #1-45). They have a printed copy of the link to the audio guide. You can also ask Abuela Celia to show it to you on her phone. She knows how it works and will help you.
Call to Action
This Saturday, visit Abuela Celia's Patio (Cra 4 #2-15) and bring a plant to exchange. It doesn't matter if it's a small succulent or a pothos cutting. What counts is the intention to share. If you don't have a plant, bring some cilantro seeds or simply arrive with a willingness to chat. The neighborhood is waiting for you.
What to Do
Visit the Hidden Patios
San Antonio is known for its cobblestone streets, but few venture to explore the patios hidden among the houses. Many of these patios are community spaces where neighbors grow plants and flowers. Insider Tip: Ask local residents if they can show you one of these patios; they are often willing to share their stories and love for their community.
Explore the Urban Gardens
Several urban gardens have been developed in the neighborhood that not only beautify the environment but also promote sustainability. These spaces are perfect for learning about urban agriculture and the importance of local production. Insider Tip: Some weekends, they organize workshops open to the public; ask the community about when they take place.
Tour the Gato de Tejada Gallery
More than just a sculpture, the Gato de Tejada has become a meeting point for local artists who exhibit their works nearby. Insider Tip: Look for temporary exhibitions that often take place in the park; it's an excellent way to discover local talent and take home a unique piece.
Savor Local Gastronomy at Hidden Restaurants
Beyond the popular restaurants, there are small places that offer authentic Cali cuisine. These spots are often full of stories and family recipes. Insider Tip: Ask for the "sancocho" of the day or the "ajiaco"; eating at these places will give you a more authentic experience of the gastronomic culture of Cali.
