Republican Architecture in El Peñón: Houses with History

El Peñón: When Cali Wanted to Be Paris

If you walk along the cobblestone streets of El Peñón, it's not unusual to feel that time stopped in 1920. This neighborhood, declared a Site of Cultural Interest, is a testament to an era when the Cali elite, inspired by the Haussmannian architecture of Paris and Colombian republicanism, built houses that mixed wrought-iron balconies, clay tile roofs, and Doric columns. But beware: it's not all a postcard. Behind every facade are stories of families who saw the city grow, of urban transformations, and of a constant struggle to preserve what remains. Today, in May 2026, El Peñón is still an open-air museum, but one that breathes, lives, and sometimes falls apart.

This neighborhood was born at the end of the 19th century, when Cali began to expand beyond its traditional center. Wealthy families, such as the Caicedos, the Borreros, and the Londoños, bought lots in what were then pastures and built country estates. The sugar and trade boom brought money, and with it, the need to show status. Thus, between 1910 and 1940, the architectural jewels you see today were erected: houses with attics, hallways, inner courtyards, and facades that combine exposed brick with stucco imitating stone. It is no exaggeration to say that El Peñón is the most European neighborhood in Cali, but with a Cali soul that sneaks into the colors and details of carved wood.

What to Do: A Walking Route Through 7 Key Buildings

To understand the republican architecture of El Peñón, you have to walk. The neighborhood is not large, but every corner has a surprise. I propose a route that starts at Carrera 4 with Calle 10 and ends at Parque de El Peñón. Wear comfortable shoes, bring water, and if you can, a camera with a good lens for the details of the facades.

1. Casa de la familia Borrero (Cra 4 #10-45)

This is, for many, the most photographed house in the neighborhood. Built in 1923, its facade is a display of symmetry and ornamentation: Ionic pilasters, a triangular pediment with a central oculus, and a wrought-iron balcony that looks like it came from a French catalog. The entrance has a hallway that leads to an inner courtyard with a tiled fountain. Today it functions as the headquarters of a cultural foundation, but if you ring the bell and ask politely, they sometimes let you in to see the courtyard. Fun fact: they say the original owner, Don Miguel Borrero, had the tiles brought from Marseille because he didn't trust the local ones.

2. Casa de la familia Londoño (Cra 5 #10-32)

A perfect example of the transition between the republican style and Art Deco. It was built in 1936, when fashion was beginning to change. The facade is more sober, with straight lines and a stepped cornice, but it retains the iron balcony and sash windows. What stands out most is the main door: carved in cedar with geometric figures. Neighbors say that in the 1950s, the Londoño family rented the second floor to artists and musicians, and that some of the city's first literary gatherings were held there.

3. Casa de la familia Caicedo (Cra 4 #11-12)

This is the largest on the route, with a frontage of over 20 meters. It has two floors, a turret on the corner that looks like a lookout, and a side garden that is now closed to the public. The facade mixes exposed brick with ochre-painted plaster, and the windows have wrought-iron grilles with floral motifs. It was built in 1918, and for decades it was the home of the Caicedo family, one of the most powerful in the region. In the 1970s, it was sold and became a private school, but since 2015 it has been abandoned. It is a reminder that heritage also hurts. Sad but true fact: in 2023, a downpour collapsed part of the roof, and no one has done anything to repair it.

4. Casa de la familia Arboleda (Cra 5 #11-20)

One of the best preserved, because descendants still live in it. It was built in 1928, and its style is the purest republicanism: a symmetrical facade, a continuous balcony on the second floor, and a hallway leading to a courtyard with palm trees. The special part is in the details: the floor tiles in the hallway are from Seville, and the entrance lamps are made of bronze brought from England. If you are lucky enough to see Doña María Arboleda sweeping the sidewalk, say hello. She will tell you what the neighborhood was like when there were only five houses and the rest were pastures.

5. Casa de la familia Valencia (Cra 4 #11-45)

This is the smallest on the route, but no less important. Built in 1932, it is an example of an upper-middle-class house of the era, with a single floor and an inner courtyard that has now become a restaurant. The facade is exposed brick with white stucco details, and the door is made of wood with a wrought-iron peephole. The curious thing is that, unlike the large mansions, this house shows how families who were not millionaires but were well-off lived. Today it houses a café that is perfect for taking a break on the route.

6. Casa de la familia Holguín (Cra 5 #10-50)

This is the only one with a square turret on a corner, with a hipped tile roof and a rooster-shaped weather vane. It was built in 1925, and for years it was the home of politician Jorge Holguín. The facade is white-painted plaster, with moldings that imitate stone, and the windows have green shutters. In the inner courtyard, there is a stone fountain that still works. Today it is a boutique hotel, but if you go in and ask for the lobby, you can see the courtyard and the spiral staircase leading to the second floor. Fun fact: the rooster weather vane is original and still turns with the wind.

7. Parque de El Peñón (Calle 11 con Carrera 4)

The final point of the route. This park is not just a place to sit: it is the heart of the neighborhood. It was designed in 1920 as a tree-lined square, with a central wrought-iron gazebo used for events. Around it, the republican houses form a perfect ensemble. If you sit on a bench at 5 p.m., you will see how the evening light illuminates the facades and makes them shine. It is the ideal time to take photos. Little-known fact: beneath the park there is a tunnel that connected to the Casa Caicedo, used during the Thousand Days' War to hide weapons. No one has been able to fully confirm it, but the neighbors swear it's true.

Where to Eat or Drink

After walking, hunger strikes. In El Peñón, there are options ranging from traditional to contemporary, but always with a touch of history.

Café de la Casa Valencia (Cra 4 #11-45)

In the same house from the route. They serve Colombian origin coffee, pastries, and empanadas. The atmosphere is quiet, with wooden tables and a terrace overlooking the inner courtyard. Reference prices for May 2026: an American coffee costs $4,500 COP, and a beef empanada, $3,000 COP. Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Restaurante La Casa del Patio (Cra 5 #11-10)

In an adapted republican house, this restaurant serves Colombian food with international touches. The main dish is the ajiaco santafereño, but they also have vegetarian options. The inner courtyard is the best place to eat, surrounded by columns and plants. Dishes from $25,000 COP. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Bar El Mirador (Cra 4 #10-60, second floor)

In a 1930s building, this bar has a terrace with a view of Parque de El Peñón. It is perfect for a drink at sunset. They serve classic cocktails and craft beer. Prices range from $12,000 to $25,000 COP. Open Thursday to Saturday, 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tip: order a hot "Canelazo" if it's cold.

How to Get There and Transportation

El Peñón is in north-central Cali, 10 minutes by taxi from the historic center and 20 from the south of the city. If you come from the airport, a taxi costs around $40,000 COP (reference price for May 2026).

• By public transportation: Take the MIO (bus system) to the "San Nicolás" or "Avenida de las Américas" station. From there, walk 10 minutes north. The routes that pass nearby are T31 and A01.
• By taxi or Uber: This is the most comfortable option. Tell the driver to drop you off at Carrera 4 with Calle 10, the heart of the neighborhood. A trip from the center costs about $8,000 COP.
• Walking: If you are in the historic center (Plaza de Cayzedo), you can get there in 20 minutes by walking north along Carrera 4. It is a pleasant walk, with trees and old houses along the way.
• By bicycle: The neighborhood has gentle slopes, and there are public bicycle stations (MIO Bici) nearby. The closest station is at Calle 10 with Carrera 5. The cost is $1,000 COP per hour.

Local Tips

So that your visit is more authentic and hassle-free, here are some tips from a local who has walked these streets a thousand times:

• Hours: Most houses are not open to the public. Only Casa Holguín (hotel) and Casa Valencia (café) allow entry. If you want to see the inside of others, ring the bell and ask respectfully. Sometimes the owners let you in if you explain you are an architect or student.
• Safety: El Peñón is safe during the day, but at night be careful on the solitary streets. Better not to walk alone after 10 p.m. Keep your cell phone put away and do not display valuables.
• Photography: The facades are perfect for photos, but avoid using flash if you are near windows, as the old glass is fragile. Ask for permission before photographing people.
• Climate: Cali is hot, but El Peñón has trees that provide shade. Bring sunscreen, a hat, and water. In May 2026, the afternoons have been rainy, so an umbrella is not a bad idea.
• Language: Most neighbors speak Spanish. If you are a foreigner and don't speak well, don't worry: people are friendly and will help you with gestures or basic English. But try to greet with a "buenos días" to break the ice.
• Fun fact: On the corner of Carrera 4 with Calle 11, there is a plaque marking the spot where, in 1925, the first silent film in Cali was filmed. The film was lost, but the older neighbors still remember the story.

Comparison with Other Heritage Neighborhoods

El Peñón is not the only neighborhood with republican architecture in Cali, but it is the most complete. Here I compare it with two others so you can understand their differences:

• El Peñón vs. San Antonio: San Antonio is more bohemian and has houses in colonial and republican styles, but in smaller numbers. Its streets are steeper and the atmosphere is more about bars and restaurants. El Peñón is more residential, quiet, and has a higher concentration of elite houses from the 1920s.
• El Peñón vs. Granada: Granada is a modern neighborhood, with glass and steel buildings. It has no republican architecture. If you are looking for history, El Peñón wins hands down. Granada is for shopping or trendy restaurants.
• El Peñón vs. the Historic Center: The center has republican buildings like the Palacio de San Francisco or the Teatro Municipal, but they are scattered among modern constructions. El Peñón is a homogeneous ensemble, like a time capsule. Also, the center is noisier and more chaotic.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you enter the houses of El Peñón without being invited?

For the most part, no. Most are private residences or are closed. The only ones that allow entry are Casa Holguín (now a boutique hotel) and Casa Valencia (café). If you ring the bell at other houses and explain your interest (for example, if you are an architecture student), some owners may let you in, but it is not guaranteed. Better to respect privacy and enjoy the facades from the street.

What is the best time of year to visit El Peñón?

From December to March, when the dry season allows walking without rain. The facades look better in natural light, and the park is full of flowers. If you come in May 2026, like now, bring an umbrella because the afternoons often have sudden downpours. The advantage of the rainy season is that there are fewer tourists and the photos have a dramatic sky.

Are there official guided tours of the neighborhood?

Yes, but there is no official entity that organizes them. The Cali Secretary of Culture sometimes offers free tours on special dates (like Heritage Day in September). You can also contact independent local guides who offer walking tours. Ask at the Casa de la Cultura de Cali (in the center) or search on social media with the hashtag #RutaPatrimonialCali. Prices range from $20,000 to $50,000 COP per person, depending on the group.

What architectural style exactly predominates in El Peñón?

The Colombian republican style, which is a local adaptation of European neoclassicism and eclecticism from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It is characterized by symmetrical facades, wrought-iron balconies, hipped clay tile roofs, hallways with carved wooden doors, inner courtyards with fountains, and the use of materials such as exposed brick, stucco, and wood. There are also Art Deco influences in houses built after 1930, such as Casa Londoño.

Is El Peñón safe for tourists?

Generally, yes, but with precautions. During the day it is very safe, with families and students walking around. At night, the streets empty and there can be minor thefts. Avoid carrying valuables in sight, do not use your cell phone on the street after 8 p.m., and always walk on the main streets (Carrera 4 and Carrera 5). If you come in a group, it's better. Taxis and Ubers are safe if you order them through an app.

Receive the printed guide with a sketch of the route: If you want a paper version with a detailed map of the 7 buildings, additional anecdotes, and schedule recommendations, write to us at our email (available at malokal.com) or ask at your hotel reception. The guide is free for subscribers to the Malokal newsletter. Don't miss the opportunity to take a piece of Cali history home.

Historical or contextual introduction

El Peñón stands out not only for its republican architecture, but also for the mix of history that can be felt on every corner. This neighborhood, which began to take shape at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries, was a meeting point for the Cali elite, who sought a place to enjoy the tranquility and natural beauty offered by the Cali River. Over time, its houses have witnessed the growth of the city and the social and cultural changes that have marked its development.

Among its cobblestone streets, the republican-style constructions tell us stories of families who have passed through generations in the area. The architecture of El Peñón is characterized by its wooden balconies, large windows, and gabled roofs, reflecting European influence in the region. This neighborhood has been declared a Site of Cultural Interest, meaning its conservation is vital to understanding the history of Cali.

As you explore El Peñón, don't forget to pay attention to the details on the facades of the houses, many of which have been carefully restored to preserve their essence. The mix of old and new creates a unique atmosphere that makes this place ideal for photography and art.

If you want to immerse yourself more in the local culture, try attending one of the fairs or events held in the neighborhood, where you can enjoy music, gastronomy, and the warmth of its people.