Eating in Centenario: 6 Local Spots That Have Survived Since the 80s

Centenario: the neighborhood that traded porches for tables

If you walk along Calle 9 between Carreras 37 and 40, the smell of fried food, office sweat, and freshly brewed coffee hits you in the face. It's not a pretty neighborhood in the tourist sense, but it has something that shopping malls will never have: living history. Centenario, in downtown Cali, was born as a middle-class residential neighborhood in the 1940s, with single-story houses, inner courtyards, and hallways with potted plants. But since the 80s, when the city began to grow south and north, the residents moved away and commercial spaces took over the facades. What seemed like the end of the neighborhood was, in reality, its second life. Today, Centenario is a bustling hive of office workers, students, and retirees looking for quick, cheap, home-style lunches. And amidst all the chain stores and Chinese shops, there are six restaurants that have been holding out for over 40 years. Here I'll tell you which ones they are, what to order, and how not to die trying to find parking.

What to do in Centenario (besides eating)

Centenario is not a neighborhood of museums or parks with gardens. It's a neighborhood of transit, errands, and hunger. But if you have time, you can do this:

• Walk along Calle 9 between Carreras 37 and 40: it's the gastronomic heart of the neighborhood. Most of the traditional spots are here.
• Visit Plazoleta Centenario: a small green space at Carrera 39 with Calle 9, where on weekends they set up craft and street food markets. It's not a big deal, but it's good for sitting down for a while.
• Go to the Iglesia de San Judas Tadeo (Carrera 40 with Calle 10): on Tuesdays there is a special mass and devotees gather outside. A market of fruits and arepas sets up around it.
• Look for street murals: on the walls of old houses there are graffiti by local artists, especially on Carrera 38 between Calles 8 and 9. They're not famous, but they tell stories of the neighborhood.

Where to eat: the 6 local spots that have survived since the 80s

Here are the profiles of the six restaurants that have seen trends, crises, and even the pandemic come and go. They are all family businesses, with recipes that haven't changed in decades. The prices I list are a reference from May 2026, so it's always good to confirm before you go.

1. El Rincón de la Abuela (founded in 1982)

Address: Calle 9 # 38-45, half a block from Plazoleta Centenario.
Signature dish: Bandeja paisa (beans, rice, chicharrón, egg, arepa, ripe plantain, and avocado).
Approx. price: $22,000 COP (full plate + soda).
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10:00 am – 4:00 pm. Closed Sundays.

Doña Nelly, the owner, opened the place when her husband lost his job at a textile factory. She started selling lunches to the local workers. Today, her daughter runs the kitchen and the chicharrón recipe (baked, not fried) remains the same. If you go alone, order the "executive lunch" which comes out faster: a mini version of the bandeja paisa for $14,000 COP. If you go in a group, share a large bandeja ($35,000 COP) and order a lulo juice on the side.

2. La Tertulia de Centenario (founded in 1985)

Address: Carrera 38 # 9-32, corner with Calle 9.
Signature dish: Sancocho de gallina (hen stew with potato, yucca, corn on the cob, and hogao).
Approx. price: $18,000 COP (plate + rice + avocado).
Hours: Monday to Friday, 11:00 am – 5:00 pm. Saturdays until 3:00 pm.

This place started as a grocery store that Doña Leticia turned into a dining room when she saw that office workers had nowhere to eat cheaply. The sancocho is famous because the hen is slow-cooked from 6 in the morning. The secret, according to Doña Leticia, is the hogao: onion, tomato, and garlic sautéed for 20 minutes. If you go alone, order the sancocho in an "individual portion" which comes in a large bowl. If you go in a group, order several plates and share the coconut rice ($5,000 COP extra).

3. El Viejo Juancho (founded in 1980)

Address: Calle 10 # 37-50, in front of the Iglesia de San Judas Tadeo.
Signature dish: Chuleta valluna (breaded pork chop with patacón, rice, and salad).
Approx. price: $25,000 COP (full plate + natural juice).
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 11:00 am – 8:00 pm. Closed Mondays.

Juancho started selling empanadas from a cart, and in 1980 he managed to rent this place. The chuleta valluna is his flagship dish: the meat is marinated in garlic and cumin before breading. The patacón is thick and crispy. If you go alone, order the chuleta with french fries (no rice) for $20,000 COP. If you go in a group, order the "chuleta platter" ($50,000 COP) which comes with 3 chops, patacones for 2, and salad.

4. La Casa de los Abuelos (founded in 1987)

Address: Carrera 39 # 8-20, on the corner of Plazoleta Centenario.
Signature dish: Arroz atollado (rice with pork, rib, potato, carrot, and cilantro).
Approx. price: $16,000 COP (plate + starter soup).
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10:00 am – 5:00 pm.

This place started as a family boarding house that served breakfast to students from Universidad del Valle (when the campus was nearby). The arroz atollado is the most requested dish because it's filling and cheap. The recipe includes smoked pork ribs that they buy at the Alameda market. If you go alone, order the "daily lunch" which includes soup, arroz atollado, and dessert for $19,000 COP. If you go in a group, order two plates of arroz atollado and share a portion of patacones ($6,000 COP).

5. El Sabor de la Abuela (founded in 1984)

Address: Calle 8 # 38-60, near Parque de la Caña.
Signature dish: Tamales vallunos (stuffed with pork, chicken, rice, chickpeas, and vegetables, wrapped in plantain leaves).
Approx. price: $12,000 COP each tamal.
Hours: Wednesday to Sunday, 8:00 am – 4:00 pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Doña María, the founder, learned to make tamales from her grandmother in Palmira. The place started as a street stall, and in 1984 she managed to rent a room. The tamales are cooked in a clay pot, which gives them a smoky flavor. If you go alone, order a tamal with a soda ($15,000 COP). If you go in a group, order a dozen ($120,000 COP) and take some frozen ones home.

6. La Esquina del Sabor (founded in 1986)

Address: Carrera 37 # 9-10, corner with Calle 9.
Signature dish: Mondongo a la caleña (tripe soup with potato, carrot, peas, and chickpeas).
Approx. price: $20,000 COP (plate + rice + avocado).
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10:00 am – 4:00 pm.

Don Pedro, the owner, was a butcher and started selling mondongo from an improvised stove. The soup is cooked for 4 hours and has a touch of cumin that makes it different. If you go alone, order the mondongo with "everything" (rice, avocado, and chili) for $22,000 COP. If you go in a group, order a large pot ($45,000 COP) which serves 3 people.

Location map

All six spots are within a 3-block radius. If you stop at Plazoleta Centenario (Carrera 39 with Calle 9), you can walk to all of them in less than 10 minutes. Here is a suggested order for a gastronomic route:

1. Start at La Tertulia de Centenario (Carrera 38 # 9-32) for a sancocho de gallina.
2. Walk one block to El Rincón de la Abuela (Calle 9 # 38-45) for the bandeja paisa.
3. Continue two blocks south to La Casa de los Abuelos (Carrera 39 # 8-20) for the arroz atollado.
4. Turn right on Calle 8 and reach El Sabor de la Abuela (Calle 8 # 38-60) for the tamales.
5. Go back to Carrera 37 and head up to La Esquina del Sabor (Carrera 37 # 9-10) for the mondongo.
6. Finish at El Viejo Juancho (Calle 10 # 37-50) for the chuleta valluna.

How to get there and transportation

Centenario is in downtown Cali, 10 minutes by car from the CAM (Centro Administrativo Municipal). If you come by MÍO, the nearest station is Estación San Pascual (Troncal Oriental line). From there, walk 5 minutes south along Carrera 39. If you come by car, be prepared: parking is a headache. There is a public parking lot at Carrera 38 with Calle 8 (cost: $3,000 COP per hour, $10,000 COP all day). There is also street parking, but watch out for the "cuidacarros" who ask for a tip. The best is to come by taxi or MÍO, especially on weekdays when downtown traffic is heavy. On Saturdays and Sundays the neighborhood is quieter and easier to get around.

Local tips

• If you go alone: look for the "executive lunches" offered at El Rincón de la Abuela and La Casa de los Abuelos. They are smaller, cheaper plates, perfect for one person. Don't order large plates because you'll have leftovers and have to take a bag.
• If you go in a group: order the "family platters" or "large pots." At El Viejo Juancho, the chuleta platter serves 3 people. At La Esquina del Sabor, the large pot of mondongo serves 3-4. This way you save money and get to try more things.
• Peak hours: between 12:00 pm and 1:30 pm, the places fill up with office workers. If you want to eat in peace, arrive before 11:30 am or after 2:00 pm.
• Cash is king: most of these places don't accept credit cards. Bring bills of $10,000, $20,000, and $50,000 COP. Some have Nequi or Daviplata, but don't count on it.
• Don't be fooled by the looks: the places look old and run-down from the outside, but the food is clean and fresh. Doña Nelly (El Rincón de la Abuela) washes the vegetables three times before cooking them.
• A fun fact: the Centenario neighborhood was originally called "Barrio Obrero" because it was built for workers from the Bavaria brewery in the 1940s. Some houses with the original bricks still remain, like the one housing La Tertulia.

Frequently asked questions

Are these restaurants expensive?

No, not at all. Prices range from $12,000 COP (a tamal) to $25,000 COP (a full chuleta valluna). Compared to restaurants in northern Cali (where a plate can cost $40,000 COP or more), here you eat well and cheap. Plus, the portions are generous: an executive lunch at El Rincón de la Abuela fills you up for $14,000 COP.

Do they accept credit cards?

Most don't. Only El Viejo Juancho and La Esquina del Sabor have a card machine, but it sometimes fails. The best is to bring cash. If you forgot, you can use Nequi or Daviplata at some places, but ask before ordering. There is an ATM at Carrera 38 with Calle 9 (Banco de Bogotá), but it charges a fee.

Are there vegetarian or vegan options?

Very few. Most dishes have pork, chicken, or beef. If you are vegetarian, at La Casa de los Abuelos you can order the arroz atollado without meat (they prepare it with just vegetables) and at El Sabor de la Abuela the tamales come with a chickpea and vegetable filling (without meat). But don't expect a full vegan menu. If you are strictly vegan, it's better to look for options in San Fernando or on Calle 14.

What is the best day to go?

Saturdays at noon. The neighborhood is less crowded, all the places have all their dishes available, and traffic is lighter. On Sundays, only El Viejo Juancho and El Sabor de la Abuela are open, but with reduced hours. During the week, avoid Mondays because several places are closed (El Viejo Juancho and El Sabor de la Abuela rest that day).

Can I bring my own drink?

In general, # The places sell sodas, natural juices, and water. If you bring your own drink, they might charge you a "service fee" of $2,000 COP (like at La Tertulia). The best is to order a lulo or passion fruit juice, which are fresh and cost $4,000 COP.

CTA: share your favorite combo

If after reading this you feel like visiting Centenario, don't leave without trying at least two of these places. And when you do, post a photo of your favorite combo on Instagram or TikTok with the hashtag #CentenarioComeBien and tag the spot (they all have a Facebook page or Instagram profile, even if they aren't very active). We'll share the best combos in our Malokal gallery. Which is your favorite: sancocho with tamal or chuleta with mondongo?

Historical or contextual introduction

The Centenario neighborhood in Cali has been a gastronomic reference point since the 1980s, when the city began to diversify and local flavors started to merge with influences from other regions. This sector, which doesn't stand out for its aesthetics, has been characterized by its authenticity and for being a meeting place for workers, students, and families looking for traditional flavors at affordable prices. Calle 9, in particular, has become a corridor of delights where the aroma of fried food mixes with office coffee, creating a unique sensory experience.

As the world has modernized, many of these places have managed to adapt without losing their essence. Some survive thanks to the loyalty of their customers, while others have found innovation as a way to stay relevant. Walking down this street is not just about eating, but about connecting with the history of Cali and its inhabitants, who have forged a rich culture of flavors and traditions.