Bogotá doesn't give itself up easily. It's a city that keeps its secrets between the morning mist and the afternoon bustle, demanding patience and observation to reveal its true essence. Being a 'rolo' isn't just about being born here; it's about understanding the particular rhythm of this Andean capital, knowing how to navigate its contrasts, adopting that Bogotá pride that's built day by day in the streets, on buses, in neighborhood bakeries. This guide is for those who want to stop looking from the outside and start living from within.
Social Customs and Local Etiquette
Greetings in Bogotá have their nuances. While in other parts of Colombia a hug is immediate, here it starts with a firm but not exaggerated handshake, especially in formal contexts or with people you've just met. Among friends, a kiss on the cheek (just one, usually the right) is common, but wait for them to offer it first. Bogotanos value relative punctuality: arriving 15 minutes late to a social gathering is acceptable, but for work or medical appointments, accuracy is expected. A common mistake newcomers make is speaking too loudly in public spaces; a moderate tone is appreciated, especially in restaurants and on transportation.
When you're invited to a home, always bring a small gift: a bottle of wine, desserts, or flowers. Never arrive empty-handed. And pay attention to shoes: in many Bogotá households, shoes are left at the entrance, especially if it has rained (which happens frequently in Bogotá). At the table, keep your hands visible, not your elbows, and wait until everyone is served before starting to eat. 'Provecho' (enjoy your meal) is said when beginning, and after finishing, a 'qué rico' (how delicious) or 'gracias' (thank you) is well received.
Behavior on Public Transportation and on the Street
TransMilenio has its own unwritten code. First: the line is sacred. Cutting in line generates immediate disapproving looks. Second: the left lane in stations is for those in a hurry; if you're walking leisurely, stay to the right. Third: inside the bus, offer your seat to elderly adults, pregnant women, or people with disabilities; it's a strong social norm here. Fourth: keep your cell phone out of sight when you're near the doors, especially during rush hour. Fifth: buy the TuLlave card and recharge it in advance; machines at stations usually have long lines on Mondays.
On the street, walk with purpose but without rushing. Bogotanos walk quickly but attentively, dodging potholes and street vendors with acquired grace. Cross only at crosswalks and with the traffic light in your favor; drivers here don't always yield. When it rains (something that happens without warning several times a day), sidewalks become slippery; shoes with good traction are essential. And never, ever leave your phone visible in your hand while walking downtown or in crowded areas.
Typical Eating Habits and Where to Eat Like a Local
The Bogotá breakfast is substantial: hot chocolate with cheese (yes, the cheese melts inside the chocolate), 'huevos pericos' (scrambled eggs with tomato and onion), and arepa, preferably made from 'maíz pelado'. On weekends, this ritual extends at bakeries like La Puerta Falsa in La Candelaria (Calle 11 #6-50, La Candelaria, Bogotá - View on Google Maps) or Pastelería Florida in Chapinero (Carrera 7 #67-01, Chapinero, Bogotá - View on Google Maps). For lunch, look for 'corrientazos': small restaurants that offer a daily menu with soup, 'seco' (rice, protein, salad, and patacón), and dessert for a fixed price. In La Perseverancia or Galerías you'll find some of the best.
The 'merienda' (afternoon snack) is around 5 pm: a 'tinto' (black coffee) with something sweet, maybe a buñuelo or an almojábana. Dinner is lighter and later, after 8 pm. To eat like a local, avoid tourist restaurants in Zona G and instead seek out the 'patios comederos' of Usaquén, the ajiaco stalls in La Macarena, or the empanadas from La Empanadería at various points in the city (Calle 82 #12-18, Chapinero, Bogotá - View on Google Maps). Try 'ajiaco santafereño' on Saturdays, it's a tradition.
Essential Bogotá Expressions and Slang
The language here has its own music. '¡Qué más!' isn't a question, it's a greeting equivalent to 'How are you?' You respond with another '¡Qué más!' or 'Todo bien' (all good). 'Chévere' means cool, excellent. 'Parce' or 'parcero' is friend, buddy; it's used a lot among young people. 'Rumbear' is to go out partying. 'Camellar' is to work hard. 'Guache' is not a compliment; it means someone with bad taste or no class.
When something is expensive, it's 'salado'. When it rains heavily, it's 'caiendo el cielo' (the sky is falling). 'Estar pelando' is to be broke. 'Una pola' is a beer. 'Un tinto' is black coffee (not red wine). 'Chino' doesn't refer to people from China, but to small children. And the classic: '¿A cómo?' means 'How much does it cost?' Using these expressions properly will make you sound less like an outsider and more like someone who's understanding the local rhythm.
Events and Traditions that Define Life in Bogotá
The Bogotá calendar is marked by collective rituals. In April, the Book Fair at Corferias (Carrera 40 #22-67, Bogotá - www.feriadellibro.com - View on Google Maps) turns the city into the literary capital of Latin America. It's not just for intellectuals; entire families go to buy books, listen to concerts, and eat 'obleas'. In August, the Summer Festival fills parks with free sports and outdoor activities, taking advantage of the (relatively) sunny days of the season.
On Sundays and holidays, the Ciclovía closes over 100 km of main streets from 7 am to 2 pm. It's a democratic space where cyclists, skaters, and walkers take over the city. Participating is a rite of initiation. In December, the lights of the Christmas Lights illuminate the Simón Bolívar Metropolitan Park (Calle 63 #53-06, Bogotá - View on Google Maps) and Avenida 68, and families go out to 'run the lights' in car caravans, eating 'natilla' and buñuelos.
But beyond the big events are the small daily rituals: the Sunday line to enter the Gold Museum (Carrera 6 #15-88, Bogotá - www.banrepcultural.org/museo-del-oro - View on Google Maps), the Sunday stroll through the Usaquén Flea Market (Calle 119 #5-52, Usaquén, Bogotá - View on Google Maps), the 4 pm coffee at a neighborhood café, the knowing glances exchanged when the sun appears after days of rain. These are the moments that truly make you a 'rolo'.
Frequently Asked Questions About Living in Bogotá
- What is the best area to live in Bogotá? It depends on your budget and lifestyle. Chapinero is popular among young professionals, Usaquén is more family-oriented and quiet, and La Candelaria is ideal for those seeking a bohemian and cultural atmosphere.
- Is Bogotá safe? Like any big city, it has safer and less safe areas. Use common sense: avoid showing valuables, use official transportation, and ask locals about areas you should avoid.
- How much does it cost to live in Bogotá? The cost of living varies greatly. An apartment in central areas can cost between $1,500,000 and $3,000,000 COP per month, while in peripheral areas it can be more economical.
- What is the weather like in Bogotá? Temperate all year round, with temperatures between 10°C and 20°C. It rains frequently, especially in April-May and October-November. Always carry an umbrella or waterproof jacket.
- Is it easy to make friends in Bogotá? Bogotanos can be reserved at first, but once you establish trust, they are warm and loyal. Participating in community activities, classes, or sports groups helps a lot.
Bogotá constantly tests you. With its traffic, unpredictable weather, fast pace. But when you start to understand its codes, when you greet the same newspaper vendor every morning, when you know the shortcut to avoid the traffic jam on 7th Avenue, when you prefer the ajiaco from a specific restaurant and defend your soccer team with passion, then something changes. You stop being a visitor and become part of its urban fabric, imperfect, vibrant, always in motion. The city adopts you, and you, without realizing it, have adopted the city.
Do you have more tips for living like a true 'rolo'? Share them in the comments.
