Barranquilla in World War II: Spies, Refugees, and the Port That Never Slept

Origins: The Colombian Caribbean as a Theater of the Invisible Cold War

When one thinks of World War II, the first things that come to mind are the European fronts, the Pacific, or North Africa. But few know that Barranquilla, a strategic port on the Magdalena River, was a hotbed of espionage, refugees, and covert operations. As of May 2026, traces of that era can still be found in the streets of the historic center and the El Prado neighborhood. The city was not only a refuge for those fleeing Nazism but also a stage where German, British, and American agents played chess with the fate of the Caribbean.

The key was its port. Barranquilla was the gateway to the interior of Colombia and, by extension, to South America. The ships that docked at Bocas de Ceniza brought not only goods but also passengers with fake documents, suitcases with coded messages, and, in some cases, shipments of gold or jewelry seeking a safe destination. The city, already in the 1930s and 1940s, was a melting pot of immigrants: Syrians, Lebanese, Italians, Germans, and Eastern European Jews. That mix, which today is part of Barranquilla's DNA, intensified when the war broke out in 1939.

The Colombian government, under President Eduardo Santos, declared neutrality at the start of the conflict. But in Barranquilla, that neutrality was a bad joke. The port was full of agents from the Abwehr (German intelligence), the British MI6, and the American OSS (predecessor to the CIA). The cafes along Paseo Bolívar and the hotels in the El Prado neighborhood were meeting points for exchanging information that defined control of the Caribbean.

Timeline or Historical Milestones

To understand how Barranquilla became a key node, we must review the most important moments of that era. Here are the milestones that marked the city between 1939 and 1945:

• 1939: War breaks out in Europe. Barranquilla receives the first refugees, many of them Jews fleeing Germany, Austria, and Poland. They arrive with only the clothes on their backs and settle in boarding houses downtown.
• 1940: Surveillance at the port intensifies. The National Police and Colombian government agents begin to control the ships that dock. The first cases of German spies disguised as merchants are reported.
• 1941: After the attack on Pearl Harbor, Colombia breaks relations with the Axis powers. The government orders the expropriation of the German airline Scadta (Sociedad Colombo-Alemana de Transportes Aéreos), which operated from Barranquilla. Local Germans are placed under surveillance.
• 1942: A German submarine sinks the Colombian ship "Resolute" in the Caribbean. Panic grips the port. Authorities reinforce security and a network of civilian informants is created.
• 1943: More refugees arrive, this time from occupied countries like France, Belgium, and the Netherlands. Barranquilla becomes a center for family reunification. Jewish organizations such as the Hebrew Community of Barranquilla are founded.
• 1944: The war is at its peak. The port of Barranquilla is used by the Allies to transport rubber, oil, and food. Warehouses and makeshift docks are built.
• 1945: The war ends. Barranquilla celebrates with parades and masses. Many refugees decide to stay, while the Allied spies leave. The city will never be the same again.

A curious fact that few know: during those years, the headquarters of the Club Barranquilla (today in the El Prado neighborhood) was used as a meeting point for British agents. It is said that in its halls, intelligence operations were planned that prevented German ships from refueling at Colombian ports.

Key Figures or Events

The Refugees Who Changed the City

Barranquilla was not just a temporary refuge. Many of those who arrived fleeing Nazism stayed and transformed the local culture. Among them stand out:

• The Jewish community: Families like the Gerleins, the Chars, and the Daeses (surnames that today are synonymous with economic power on the coast) arrived in those years. They founded businesses, schools, and synagogues. The Shaare Sedek Synagogue, located at 72nd Street with 46th Avenue, was built in 1947 thanks to the contributions of these immigrants.
• Intellectuals and artists: European writers and painters settled in Barranquilla and mingled with the local elite. The most famous was the German writer Stefan Zweig, who spent a few months in the city in 1941 before traveling to Brazil. He stayed at the Hotel El Prado, where he wrote part of his autobiography "The World of Yesterday."
• Italian entrepreneurs: The Daccarett family, of Syrian-Lebanese origin, was already in Barranquilla before the war, but it was during the conflict that they expanded their textile empire. Their factories in the San Isidro neighborhood produced uniforms for the Colombian army.

Nazi and Allied Spies

Espionage in Barranquilla is not a myth. There are declassified documents that confirm the presence of German agents in the city. One of the most famous cases was that of Walter von Hentig, a German diplomat who operated from the consulate downtown. He was accused of coordinating the sending of information about Allied ship movements to Atlantic submarines. He was expelled in 1942.

On the Allied side, the British MI6 had a network of informants in the port. The best-known agent was John de la Torre, a Colombian-British man who worked as a coffee merchant but actually reported every suspicious ship that arrived. His office, at 30th Street with 45th Avenue, was a center for covert operations.

There were also local spies. Manuel María Palacio, a journalist from Barranquilla, was recruited by the OSS to infiltrate meetings of the German colony. He wrote articles for the newspaper "La Prensa" that, on the surface, were social chronicles but contained coded messages for Washington.

Current State

Today, in 2026, the footprint of World War II in Barranquilla is visible to those who know how to look. The architectural and cultural legacy of that era is still alive, although many tourists pass by without noticing it. Here we tell you what you can see and do to connect with that history.

Key Buildings and Places

• Hotel El Prado (54th Street # 70-10): Opened in 1930, it was the social epicenter of the city during the war. Refugees, spies, and diplomats stayed there. Today it is a boutique hotel that preserves its original facade. Open to the public, you can have a coffee on its terrace and feel the weight of history. Reference price: rooms from $250,000 COP per night (May 2026).
• Shaare Sedek Synagogue (72nd Street # 46-25): Built by Jews who arrived during the war. It is an active temple and guided tours can be scheduled on Fridays. Free entry, but a donation of $10,000 COP is recommended.
• Former German consulate (43rd Avenue # 41-21, downtown): A neoclassical-style building that now houses offices. It is not open to the public, but it is worth seeing from the outside. It was from here that Walter von Hentig coordinated his operations.
• Port warehouses (Bocas de Ceniza area): Although many are in ruins, some have been restored as cultural centers. The most famous is the Bodega de la Aduana, which today is a temporary museum. Check hours before going.

Recommended Tour: El Prado Neighborhood

If you want to experience the full experience, we suggest a walking tour of the El Prado neighborhood. This area, declared a cultural heritage site, was where many of the refugees and agents lived. You can start at the Hotel El Prado, walk along 53rd Avenue to 76th Street, and look for houses with commemorative plaques. Some have signs telling their story. Don't miss the Casa de la Cultura (75th Street # 53-10), which was the residence of a Jewish family that arrived in 1942. Today it is an exhibition center. Free entry.

Another unmissable spot is the Parque de los Inmigrantes (54th Avenue with 74th Street), a green space that honors the Europeans who arrived during the war. There is a plaque that reads: "To those who found a new home in Barranquilla." It is a good place to sit and read a book about the city's history.

Living Cultural Impact

The influence of the refugees is noticeable in the gastronomy. Downtown, you can find restaurants serving apple strudel (German heritage) and kibbeh (Arab heritage). The restaurant "Kiel" (38th Avenue # 45-12) is famous for its artisan sausages, a recipe brought by a German immigrant in 1940. Dishes from $25,000 COP. Open Monday to Saturday, 11am to 9pm.

There are also festivals that recall that era. The Festival de la Inmigración, held every October in the El Prado neighborhood, includes parades of traditional costumes, klezmer music, and conferences on wartime espionage. In 2025, attendance exceeded 10,000 people. It is recommended to check exact dates on the Barranquilla Mayor's Office website.

Practical Tips for Travelers

• How to get there: The El Prado neighborhood is a 15-minute taxi ride from downtown. A trip costs about $15,000 COP. You can also take the "Prado-Centro" bus route from 30th Street.
• Best time to visit: From December to March, when the weather is drier. Avoid September and October, which are the rainiest months.
• Safety: El Prado is safe during the day, but as in any city, avoid walking alone at night. Carry only what you need and keep your belongings secure.
• Language: Most guides speak Spanish, but some places like the Hotel El Prado have bilingual staff. If you need help, ask for the "Museo de la Memoria" on 74th Street, where they have brochures in English.

Barranquilla in World War II is not just a forgotten chapter in history books. It is another layer of the identity of a city that has always known how to welcome, adapt, and reinvent itself. The next time you walk through El Prado, look closely: you might find a plaque, a facade, or a story that connects you to those years when the port never slept.